I have a Maule on my experimental. I totally rebuilt it and it's working properly, but I just don't quite have enough throw on my rudder to get it to break into full swivel mode. I thought about extending the horns on my rudder for more throw but this thing is already squirrely enough on the ground. I found a site that said you could shim the cam outwards by putting a washer behind the screws that hold the cam to the TW post. I tried that but it threw off the geometry enough that I could not get the screws started to put the cam back on. Smaller washers maybe? At first it was nice to have it not be able to break over but I think I have enough time on her now to be able to handle a sharp turn. Any suggestions would be great

I have the same problem with my maule tw. I've been told to reshape the cam with a ball-peen hammer. Haven't had time to do it yet but I'm going to. Gotta be careful not to adjust it too much or it will go into swivel mode too soon

I've been told to reshape the cam with a ball-peen hammer.

Percussive maintenance?

You could remove the sliding lock pin and spring and have a full swivel tailwheel.
Some pilots prefer it that way provided you have independent brakes for steering while taxiing.

Can't help with setting the break over point on the Maule TW but to keep it from acting squirrley when taxiing, tighten one chain a bit more than the other so you need to apply some foot tension on the pedal. The springs will then both have tension and hold the wheel more firmly so it can roll straight. Leaving springs slack at the neutral point can set up the wheel to wander especially if your spindle is trailing at the wrong caster angle. The combination can make it shimmy like a bent front spindle on a bad grocery cart. Since the Avid is lighter and shorter than the Maule it might respond differently to the same adjustments as it would on the Maule.

It's squirelly on the ground because the springs are tight and this thing is short and very light. It's like taxiing something like a Pitts. Steering is VERY positive with no shimmy. I am going to have to extend the arms on my rudder horn.

I guess I took squirlley to mean wandering or shimmy. If that is not the case then extending the arm on the rudder end should speed up the movement of the wheel, while extending the arm on the wheel end of the chains will decrease the total movement of the wheel with rudder input but will increase the leverage and power applied to force it to break over into castering. The planes short wheel base will not require as much angle on the tail wheel to accomplish the turn. Take it slow on the changes. Please post back what you find.

I have the Maule tail wheel on a kitfox Classic 4. The steering springs are just snug enough that the chains sag very slightly. To unlock the tail wheel I need to be taxing slowly (about 3 mp) push rudder pedal then "Stab" that brake when the pedal reaches full forward deflection.

If the steering springs are too tight, when turning the spring on the outside of the turn tightens even more than the one on the inside of the turn and prevents the wheel from reaching the detent/break loose point.

TomD wrote:

I've been told to reshape the cam with a ball-peen hammer.

Percussive maintenance?

Never cut, grind, turn, or mill something when you can beat it with a hammer.

Hi Avid,

First off congrats on getting your plane back in the air... As far as the T/W goes, I guess I don't understand what the problem really is or what you are trying to achieve. As posted above, I would take it light and easy on the mods and probably get more time in it learning the plane before I changed handling characteristics too much. When the plane no longer feels squirrely on the ground, then you might start changing things up some.. As others have posted you could do just fine with a full swivel t/w, but if you think your plane is squirrely now, I think you will be surprised at the results of removing or even loosening the lock.. The whole purpose of having springs in the link is to allow for full rudder deflection without popping the t/w loose. Specially if you are a "3pt, no excessive braking, purist" If you are a heavy braking, wheel lander like me, you probably won't care what the hey your tailwheel is doing

tcj wrote:I have the Maule tail wheel on a kitfox Classic 4. The steering springs are just snug enough that the chains sag very slightly. To unlock the tail wheel I need to be taxing slowly (about 3 mp) push rudder pedal then "Stab" that brake when the pedal reaches full forward deflection.

If the steering springs are too tight, when turning the spring on the outside of the turn tightens even more than the one on the inside of the turn and prevents the wheel from reaching the detent/break loose point.

Exactly!


My thought process is that if the plane is squirrely enough to warrant a lock then you probably don't want it to release without a good solid input (brakes)... I have flown my cub plenty with a trashed, no detent, no spring t/w and actually preferred it that way, but since it is certified...
Cubs are hardly squirrely though...
Take care, Rob

1SeventyZ wrote: Never cut, grind, turn, or mill something when you can beat it with a hammer.

Beat to fit, paint to match.

hotrod150 wrote:

1SeventyZ wrote: Never cut, grind, turn, or mill something when you can beat it with a hammer.

Beat to fit, paint to match.

I used to have a carpenter that worked for me, his motto was: "caulking and paint, make me the framer I ain't "

Back in the late 1960's I had an old A&P - A- I Norwegian friend who is now deceased, tell me that " Maule couldn't build a good tailwheel, let alone airplane " He didn't have any use for a Maule tailwheel !!! I would hope in nearly 50 years, they made some improvements !