I know the topic of these seats has been beat to death....but - I couldn't find a really good thread on the actual install of the F. Atlee Dodge Jump seats.

I'll be installing these under I/A supervision, and the only real good advice i've found is 1) don't drill holes in your fuel lines...and 2) don't follow the instructions like they're set in stone. Get the seats mounted and staged in there and make your marks for drilling after that.

Anyone who has installed these - did you have to drill any floor rivets and replace with flush rivets (so the rails sit flush)....

I've seen some side rails installed with solid rivets, some with cherry max rivets, and some with plain old AN fasteners (nuts/bolts)...any insight on this?

Any help or tips are MUCH appreciated. Thanks.

My tip would be to ensure that the seats slide forward and aft before you fix the exact location of the floor rails. I thought it was a simple install, broke my heart to cut the rear door pillar trim piece though. You will love the seats - or actually the fact that when they are folded there is nothing back there.

Alaskan7 wrote:......I've seen some side rails installed with solid rivets, some with cherry max rivets, and some with plain old AN fasteners (nuts/bolts)...any insight on this?......

As long as its in accordance with the STC, Id go with nuts & bolts.
Easier to remove in the future should you need to.
To reinstall the stock bench, or whatever.

I would personally minimize use of CherryMAX (steel centered pin) rivets.
They can be difficult to remove if and when they need to be-
seen some folks just carefully grind the head off.
Life saver when that is all you can use in tight places where
it is hard, or near impossible, to buck the shop head end.

PS:edit- Deadaluscan- is right on with his first sentence.

Awesome info. -Thank you.-

Any of you have to replace some floor rivets with flush mount rivets so that the bottom rails will sit flush? I'm foreseeing this as an issue, but will know more tomorrow when i start fitting them in.

wannabe wrote: I would personally minimize use of CherryMAX (steel centered pin) rivets.
They can be difficult to remove if and when they need to be-
seen some folks just carefully grind the head off.....

I've removed some cherry maxes-- you have to grind off the steel washer, then you can punch out what's left.

I think we did remove one or more rivets but then used the hole to bolt through at the aft end of the floor rails? Ill have a closer look today.

Would it be be better to counter sink the seat rail instead of removing rivets and replacing with flush

I think we did drill out one rivet on each side for the last bolt of the seat rail. May have relieved the seat rail for the rivet that is half visible also. Flush rivet replacement might be classier. I need to vacuum.

Thanks All!

This was great help. I'll post some pictures after i finish the install - This should save the next guy like me some time and stress