I'd like to point out one big advantage of a different type of seal than the one being mentioned here. The amazing ten dollar redneck gap seal blocks more high pressure air from "leaking" through the gap... and offers big advantages compared to the over-under fabric or rubber that has been mentioned. (The over-under method still leaves air gaps where the hinge lugs and pins are, and COLLECTS corrosive water, snow and dirt)

The big advantage to the amazing ten dollar redneck gap seal is that rain, ice, snow, dirt, global warming, Florida voting ballot chads, and everything else simply cannot fall onto or into the hinge pins or the small exposed pieces of steel tube. Guess what? Not only do you get the full air seal, you get NO more water in your hinge pins to corrode them. No more corrosion starting under the fabric where you had to cut it away from the hinge lugs (during covering).

And guess what, part deux? It looks slicker, and reduces the "surface discontinuity" drag from air flowing past the upper tail surface. And guess what, part troix? It's a LOT easier to install. And guess what, part quatre? It still gives your mechanic full visual inspection of the hinge and related structure from underneath. And guess what, part cinq? Any water or mud splashed on it from underneath will be able to drain off, or get washed off and drain completely.

The simpler, less high-falootin', "redneck method" will be the easiest to install on a Maule, Cub or any other tube and fabric tail. Won't work on Cessna elevators, sorry.

Simply save up ten dollars for the upgrade. Go get a roll of clear shelf paper. Not the colored stuff, the clear "satin" shelf paper stretches better and cracks less. Spend two of the dollars on the shelf paper... don't spend any more than that or your airplane will crash. Cut a strip 4 inches wide. Clean and wash your airplane's fabric. Lubricate your hinges with penetrant oil. Do a full safety inspection. Apply a thin layer of vaseline on the top of all the elevator hinge lugs (short tubes that the pin or bolt goes through). Do not get vaseline anywhere else but the hinge lugs. Make sure the elevator is in the full nose down (stick forward) position. Peel off the backing from the shelf paper a little at a time, and stick it down centered over the gap to the stabilizer side. As you stick it down, push the tape with your finger down into the gap before you stick it to the elevator. It is important that the shelf paper is NOT tight at any time, even with the elevator full down! Verify that the shelf paper is not sticking to the hinge lugs, so that movement of the elevator will not tear or shear or rip the shelf paper. Verify once again that the shelf paper cannot and does not introduce ANY extra friction or resistance to full elevator movement.

In a year or two when the UV weakens or cracks the shelf paper you just peel it off and do it again. You'll have five or six years' worth of seals on one roll. "Goof off" and "Goo Gone" which is essentially Xylene will remove the adhesive when you need to peel and clean off the old adhesive.

Now this last step is important. Take the other eight dollars and get a 12-pack of beer, and give me two of the beers at the next BCP fly-in.

So Ya, if that's S gap seal how do you Maule drivers keep the dirt from building up?

No dirt piles up in there because the Maule is such a high speed machine that it all gets sucked out by the low pressure over the horizontal stab. Besides, if you have Wups big wheels no dirt gets kicked up by the tread-less tires so there isn't a problem to start with!

EZ Flap..........I like your fix but wonder about the certification of shelf paper for my next ramp check.

I wonder if goo-gone would work to get the old seal off? Monday I'll call Maule for advice.

Denis

Mr. Ed wrote:
EZ Flap..........I like your fix but wonder about the certification of shelf paper for my next ramp check.

I wonder if goo-gone would work to get the old seal off? Monday I'll call Maule for advice.

Denis

Why do you think I said to use transparent shelf paper? Actually, if you got ramp checked, you can say that it is owner maintenance under Part 43, specifically under corrosion prevention. That might bamboozle them enough, but actually it DOES fit in with the FAA's new pamphlet addressing "continued airworthiness for the aging aircraft fleet".

Mr. Ed wrote:No dirt piles up in there because the Maule is such a high speed machine that it all gets sucked out by the low pressure over the horizontal stab. Besides, if you have Wups big wheels no dirt gets kicked up by the tread-less tires so there isn't a problem to start with!

EZ Flap..........I like your fix but wonder about the certification of shelf paper for my next ramp check.

I wonder if goo-gone would work to get the old seal off? Monday I'll call Maule for advice.
Denis

isn't the low on the bottom side of the horiz stab unless you're that Oregonian named Rob

"Simply save up ten dollars for the upgrade. Go get a roll of clear shelf paper. Not the colored stuff, the clear "satin" shelf paper stretches better and cracks less. Spend two of the dollars on the shelf paper... don't spend any more than that or your airplane will crash."

Damned....I hope my plane doesn't crash!! Frickin' inflation.
Drive to town (30 miles one way), $12.00 in gas.
Clear shelf paper at W-Mart, $6.00 after the govermant gets their cut.
Sh!t, no money left over for beer....guess that'll help with not crashing anyways.

Since it is being done on an AB plane I have no worries about the "man" saying anything.

Thanks for the tip Bill, I'll have to get cash out of my fuel fund for the two beers I owe you.

Keith

Ahhh... you may have caught me living in the past again. Make that... "The Amazing $20.00 Adjusted For Inflation Redneck Gap Seal" with my apologies.

Keith, if you're interested in tinkering with this sort of stuff, I will be glad to share any of my knowledge/experience/spectacular failures regarding gap seals and the like. I'm far far far from the world authority on this, but I did semi-apprentice at the top sailplane race prep and mod shop in the Western US for a few years, and learned a lot about little aero improvements long before they were considered cool on powered airplanes. I'm not familiar with the RANS airplanes at all, so I'd have to learn a little more about how the controls are hinged and other little tidbits. But I may be able to hit the 'clever' button a couple of times for you in areas like aileron and flap seals.