Hi Guys, I have a PA22-20,135, and with the airplane I got a set of Fed.1800 skis. I have never flown skis and wonder if anybody knows anything about these and how they work out on diferent snow conditions.Thanks Tom

Small skis for that size airplane. Actually small skis for ANY airplane. Do they have plastic (UHMW) on the bottoms? If not, you can extend the size of the bottoms some, and therefore increase floatation.

First, are they approved on the Pacer? Check the TCDS, or do a search for STC's.

Second, get someone who knows how to rig skis to rig them. It isn't rocket science, but there are ways to get hurt.

Third, get someone who knows something about ski flying to get you checked out. Again, its' not rocket science, but it is the single easiest way to break an airplane there is.

Fourth, if you have insurance, make certain they'll cover ski ops. Most do, but.....

MTV

thank you for the good advice. Never thought about the insurance, didn't know about extending the bottoms either. The ski's are aproved and signed off in the log book, but I will find someone to help put them on the first time. I'll also find someone to give me a good check out,I'm not shy about looking for help, I've grown to like the living thing.
Do you know where I can get the new bottoms on my skis, they are metal skins now. Thanks again. Tom

Tom,

The material commonly used on ski bottoms is known as UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Plastic. The best (in my opinion, and most commonly used) thickness is 1/4 inch. This stuff is readily available in Alaska, and probably other places, but I can't tell you a supplier here. It's used a lot in food preparation, since food particles don't penetrate. Comes in sheets of varying widths, and can be rolled up, as well.

If you can't find a supplier locally or on line, get in touch with F.Atlee Dodge in Anchorage, AK. and ask them if they can send you enough of the material to put new bottoms on your skis.

You make a pattern from the ski bottoms, but make the entire perimeter extend about one to two inches beyond the actual ski bottom. Cut that pattern out of the plastic. Now, mark the side edges of the ski metal on the plastic. Put the plastic in a sheet metal brake, and brake the edges UP pretty hard. They'll rebound to about a 30 to 45 degree up angle, with reference to the bottoms. That turned up edge prevents them from hooking an edge.

Now attach the plastic to your ski bottoms. Most folks use flush rivets (heads down) but small flush head machine bolts also work fine.

Now you have a set of skis with much larger bottoms, and the plastic will help to prevent them sticking down when parked, which is a serious problem with metal bottoms.

Finally, if the skis have a center skeg, I'd remove it prior to applying the plastic, and replace it after the plastic is installed, but replace it with a one inch wide strip of UHMW. You won't have to worry much at all about the skis sticking down that way.

Then, have fun, and be careful.

MTV

If you can't find a supplier locally or on line, get in touch with F.Atlee Dodge in Anchorage, AK. and ask them if they can send you enough of the material to put new bottoms on your skis.

I got the 1/4" UHMW for my skis at a local glass/window store. You may have luck with your local glass business.

Like MTV said...have fun and be careful. Don't forget your pre-heater, covers and survival gear...etc.

Pardon my ignorance; I know nothing about skis. I don't understand how skis can be modified without the approval/instructions from the manufacturer or getting the FAA involved somehow. If it's one of those special "exemptions" Alaskans get then say no more!

JRStripe wrote:Pardon my ignorance; I know nothing about skis. I don't understand how skis can be modified without the approval/instructions from the manufacturer or getting the FAA involved somehow. If it's one of those special "exemptions" Alaskans get then say no more!

I'm not sure about this...MTV could chime in...but I'll take a guess.
When I bought my skis I could have bought them with 1/4" UHMW plastic bottoms or with bare metal bottoms. I opted for the bare metal because of the cost difference. It was less expensive for me to buy my own plastic and get all the prep work done so all my mechanic had to do was rivet them on. With this in mind, I'm guessing the skis are approved with or without plastic so as long as a mechanic does the work and signs off on it, it's all legal. If I'm wrong, I'm claiming the Alaska exemption in this case.

Actually, it's often a case of "Don't Ask, Don't Tell". As Kirk noted, most skis now come from the manufacturer with plastic bottoms attached, yet I doubt if any of them actually have that on their TC.

In any case, it's a VERY common practice, and at most would be considered a minor by definition. Get your mechanic to look em over and make a logbook entry.

MTV

Hi All, Thanks for the great infromation, even if I don't get on ski's this winter, next I'll be ready! I'm new at the tail dragging and skiing in airplanes and I'm going slow at this point.

This is my old Taylorcraft on an antique pair of Federal 1400's. I only ever taxied it around on this setup. Even on the T-craft, the floatation was sorely inadequate (not to mention the underpowered engine). My Aero 3000's on my 170B are lightyears better (and more airworthy). Like MTV says, extend the plastic footprint for more gains. My current skis have almost 1-1/2" protruding plastic all around the perimeter.

Denali,

The good news on that T-Craft on skis is that the brakes weren't any worse.....

MTV

mtv wrote:Denali,

The good news on that T-Craft on skis is that the brakes weren't any worse.....

MTV

Ain't that the truth! transitioning from a T-cart with cable brakes to a 170B on skis isn't really that daunting