Fogging oil?
Lycoming, Continental, Hartzell, McCauley, or any broad spectrum drive system component used on multiple type.
Cool to see someone building a narrow deck and saving some weight. Looks great.
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PAMR MX offline

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PAMR MX wrote:Cool to see someone building a narrow deck and saving some weight. Looks great.
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Thanks. Is there weight to be saved between wide and narrow deck? I was under the impression it was only between parallel and angle valve models.
I'll tell ya one thing: I don't like the internal nuts and hold down plates that a narrow deck uses. Sometimes ya just want to put an end wrench or crows foot on a nut.
Painstakingly detailed photo album for anyone who's curious:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskCX9meJ
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Zzz offline


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Half a century spent proving “it is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.”
8GCBC wrote:Ahhh, blue stripes...Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels. The best.
Engine gray or unpainted – Standard steel cylinder barrels.
Orange stripe – Chrome-plated cylinder barrels.
Blue stripe – Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels.
Green stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.010 oversize.
Yellow stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.020 oversize.
Interesting, did not realize that color indicated anything.
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Zzz offline


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Half a century spent proving “it is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.”
Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:14 pm
Zzz wrote:8GCBC wrote:Ahhh, blue stripes...Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels. The best.
Engine gray or unpainted – Standard steel cylinder barrels.
Orange stripe – Chrome-plated cylinder barrels.
Blue stripe – Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels.
Green stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.010 oversize.
Yellow stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.020 oversize.
Interesting, did not realize that color indicated anything.
Very important. Never put Chrome rings in Chrome cylinders!!! I almost crashed in the Alinuihaha Chanel because our mechanic did so.
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8GCBC offline

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CFII, MEI, CFISES, ATPME, IA/AP, RPPL, Ski&Amphib ops, RHC mechanic cert, RHC SC— 3000TT
Update....nothing is happening on my Bearhawk. I'm going to pickle my freshly-built 540.
- Caps on intake and exhaust ports....check
- Snugged valve covers with silicone gaskets...check
- Accessory case block-off plates for magnetos, vac drive, etc...check
- Spark plug holes? Use old plugs? I never did find a good plastic plug cap. The desiccant plugs aren't meant for pickling with oil.
Anything else before I mount it on a pallet and fill it to the brim?
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Zzz offline


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Half a century spent proving “it is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.”
When I pickled the aircraft for storage and ocean freight shipping back from India I used VpCI-326™ CORROSION INHIBITOR OIL ADDITIVE. It is what is called for in the Lycoming service bulletins for preserving engines (available from Spruce). That and dehydrator plugs worked like a champ. It is a vapor phase inhibitor. Which means its fumes retard corrosion. Look over the Service instruction from Lycoming, Service Instruction No. 1481 B. It covers in detail what should be done to new or in service engines. Downloable from the Lycoming site.
Now getting this magic fluid to India was a trick. Taking it on the flight and getting it through customs was problematic. So I got a quart of Head and Shoulders shampoo. Dumped that and put the oil in. When I went through customs in Bombay, the official rummaged through my stuff picked up the bottle, looked at my bald head, shrugged his shoulders and passed me on.
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dogpilot offline
- Took ball and went home
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