I've got a good Premium E0 mogas source. I want to buy a tank to haul fuel back and forth. I've done a bit of searching and seen a lot of "not intended for use with gasoline" or something to that effect.

Is this a legal CYA or are gasoline transfer tanks built to a different standard?

I'm hoping to find a tank capable of hauling ~60 gallons.


Mine will be mounted on a small trailer and grounded appropriately.

I use a 100 gallon tank and GPI transfer pump. About 10 years ago these same tanks were approved for gasoline and nothing's changed in their design. Pretty sure it's just CYA language. The pumps approved for gas. There are also DOT regs but those apply to tanks over about 120 gallons.

Looking at tanks that are approved for gas, the only difference I see is a cutout so the pump sits in a recess. Likely that's to keep the pump from breaking off in a roll-over. I only haul gas between the gas station and the airport or home, mostly and that's only a few miles of city streets so low potential for a roll-over besides the pickup cab does a good job of shielding the pump. My only issue is minor leaking where the pump screws to the tank. I need a better gasket/seal. Otherwise it works great. This is the second truck and tank I've owned. Been hauling and pumping mogas for almost 20 years. At 150 hours x 10gph x $2.5/gal savings, that's $3,750 per year, or $75k I've saved over 20 years. It's paid for the cost of a plane!

Also, I test the E0 fuel for alcohol by putting about 6 ounces in a mason jar and adding a few drops of red food color and shaking. If alcohol is present, the gas turns red. If not, little globs of food color settle immediately to the bottom of the jar.

The station owner is pretty good about keeping clear gas, but the delivery driver messed up once and mixed e10 into the station tank. When the test went positive I showed it to the owner and he fessed up that the driver dumped e10 in the tank. He apologized and it hasn't happened since.

I put his station on the Pure Gas app and told him so. He likes to come out and tell me how much he sells everyday. His sales volume has gone way up!

Here is what I came up with:

That's a nice setup. Going to a big rig wrecking yard may offer up some good deals on fuel tanks, probably what you did?

CYA on the tank difference between diesel and gasoline, no difference.

FWIW: I still only store pure gas in my 300 gallon home tank, but I have burned a lot of E10 in the Rotax, while "on the road". No biggie, can't tell the difference.

Here's what I was thinkin.


http://www.jmesales.com/product/dot-certified-for-gas-or-diesel-110-gallon-transfer-tank-with-pump-filter-kit,11383,7660.htm

DOT Certified For Gas Or Diesel 110 Gallon Transfer Tank With Pump & Filter Kit
Transfer Tank Packages include a 110 gallon aluminum refueling transfer tank designed for diesel and gasoline. The package also comes with a repackaged GPI 12 volt pump and a filter kit

*DOT Certified Transfer Tank

Please Note: Additional freight charges will be included on all tanks going to Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico. Please call for freight quotes


Current SKU
ATTTR110RPMG
Manufacturer
JME
Shipping Weight
145 lbs.
Nozzle
Manual
Filter
Gas
Our Price:
$871.47
Fixed Shipping Cost:
$200.00
Quantity

You can't get it delivered bulk eh? They bring me however much I want and "dye" it purple so I get my farm discount. Funny thing is the gas is still clear...

A1Skinner wrote:You can't get it delivered bulk eh? They bring me however much I want and "dye" it purple so I get my farm discount. Funny thing is the gas is still clear...

That's a good question. I've never looked into it. I think I will

I've been burning mogas in my airplanes for 20 years. When I started, I had a pickup truck and wanted to get a bed-mounted tank & electric pump. While I researched what to buy, I bought three 5 gallon plastic cans (that actually hold 5.5 gallons). Never did buy a tank & pump, but I've added a 4th can. That was 4 hours worth for my first airplane (a stock C150), almost 3 hours worth for my C170 & C150/150TD, and now 2 hours worth for my C180. There's a Cenex / Co-op that sells 87 octane E0 regular (currently about $3.40) only about 2 miles out of my way home from the airport, so I just fill the cans up when they get empty.

I'm so used to filling the airplane with the cans that when I do use avgas at home, like recently when I was breaking in a new cylinder, I'd just as soon fill up my cans at the pump & put it into the airplane back at the hangar. The nice thing about cans is that you can carry them in the back of a pickup or SUV, or in the trunk of a car-- no messing around hooking up a trailer or whatever. And no futzing around with a hose, just carry them up the ladder and plop them down on top of the wing.

Here's what I come up with - a 110 galon setup:

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 1067&row=4

Around here, I can only get 87 octane ethanol free - it runs about $2.00 a gallon less than 100LL. I usually run about 50:50 avgas to get around 93 octane, which will keep a 260 hp 0-540 Lycoming happy. Figuring 14 gph, that's $14 an hour times the 2000 hr TBO, or $28K, which is a fair amount of money. The O-470K I have now is happy on 87 octane, so even more savings.

Very nice set-up Ron. I may wind up using a trailer instead of the pick up at some point and like what you've done.

The semi-tank trailer posted earlier looked good too.

I would caution against using those square/rectangular aluminum gas tanks unless it is quality built with reinforced corners, seams and has a internal welded baffle. More than one I know of have cracked along the welded seam as there is enough flex and pressure to work harden the weld. Also the welded on tabs are prone to cracking also and I would recommend straps that go all the way over the top of the tank and are secured to the vehicle.

The best route IMO is to get a tank and the saddles and straps off of a big truck and bolt it down to your trailer or truck bed. There is a reason the big rig tanks are built and secured the way they are.

Crzyivan13 wrote:Here's what I was thinkin.


http://www.jmesales.com/product/dot-certified-for-gas-or-diesel-110-gallon-transfer-tank-with-pump-filter-kit,11383,7660.htm

DOT Certified For Gas Or Diesel 110 Gallon Transfer Tank With Pump & Filter Kit
Transfer Tank Packages include a 110 gallon aluminum refueling transfer tank designed for diesel and gasoline. The package also comes with a repackaged GPI 12 volt pump and a filter kit

*DOT Certified Transfer Tank

Please Note: Additional freight charges will be included on all tanks going to Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico. Please call for freight quotes


Current SKU
ATTTR110RPMG
Manufacturer
JME
Shipping Weight
145 lbs.
Nozzle
Manual
Filter
Gas
Our Price:
$871.47
Fixed Shipping Cost:
$200.00
Quantity

courierguy wrote:That's a nice setup. Going to a big rig wrecking yard may offer up some good deals on fuel tanks, probably what you did?

CYA on the tank difference between diesel and gasoline, no difference.

FWIW: I still only store pure gas in my 300 gallon home tank, but I have burned a lot of E10 in the Rotax, while "on the road". No biggie, can't tell the difference.

I trader my tank for an air hammer but a wrecking yard would be a good source. I

Seems like a rubber mat or something similar underneath the tank would help absorb some of the truck bed flexing that goes on while we drive and may help with some of the cracking issues. I have a chunk of rubber underneath my transfer tank and haven't had any problems. GPI transfer pumps are great, as are their in-line fuel totalizers. Get a water-absorbing filter too, they are pretty inexpensive for the farm variety. I use one and change it every 1000 gallons and my A&P has commented several times about how clean my sumps were. 20' of hose works pretty good without being excessive. And get a bonding reel. I've got a "Conductix SDR25" model and it has worked fine for the last couple years.

For my trailer setup I got a static discharge reel with two leads, similar to the one below. I clamp one lead to the airframe, and the other to a grounding rod at my tiedown. The reel itself is bonded to the tank and the trailer.

-DP

There's a TON of good info in here. I appreciate everyone's input!

I'd love to be able to replicate Jered's set-up. Though most of the square/rectangle tanks I've looked at are internally baffled, which is nice too.

I've seen a few used L tanks and rectangle tanks on craigslist that I might buy if I can't find a good semi tank.


Jered, did you have to get another port welded in the top to run both the pump and vented cap?

CamTom12 wrote:There's a TON of good info in here. I appreciate everyone's input!

I'd love to be able to replicate Jered's set-up. Though most of the square/rectangle tanks I've looked at are internally baffled, which is nice too.

I've seen a few used L tanks and rectangle tanks on craigslist that I might buy if I can't find a good semi tank.


Jered, did you have to get another port welded in the top to run both the pump and vented cap?

I ordered a 2" weld bung online ane welded it in myself. I started a thread here few months ago about my fueling rig build, but I cant seem to find it. I haul my gas about 9 miles, 7 of which is highway. I have had no issues with not having tank baffles. I do wish I would have got the brackets and the straps for the tank, but I didin't. The ratchet straps realy work fine. They are rated for 1200lbs each. In WA state, you can haul up to 119 gallons of gas with no hazmat endorsement or placarding. I got static reel off ebay for $40. My hose is also braided and is only 12'. That is too short, but it's what came with the pump. Go for a minimum of 20'. I hope this info helps.

Jeredp wrote:

CamTom12 wrote:There's a TON of good info in here. I appreciate everyone's input!

I'd love to be able to replicate Jered's set-up. Though most of the square/rectangle tanks I've looked at are internally baffled, which is nice too.

I've seen a few used L tanks and rectangle tanks on craigslist that I might buy if I can't find a good semi tank.


Jered, did you have to get another port welded in the top to run both the pump and vented cap?

I ordered a 2" weld bung online ane welded it in myself. I started a thread here few months ago about my fueling rig build, but I cant seem to find it. I haul my gas about 9 miles, 7 of which is highway. I have had no issues with not having tank baffles. I do wish I would have got the brackets and the straps for the tank, but I didin't. The ratchet straps realy work fine. They are rated for 1200lbs each. In WA state, you can haul up to 119 gallons of gas with no hazmat endorsement or placarding. I got static reel off ebay for $40. My hose is also braided and is only 12'. That is too short, but it's what came with the pump. Go for a minimum of 20'. I hope this info helps.

Here you is : https://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/refueling-trailer-build-16606

Jeredp wrote:..... In WA state, you can haul up to 119 gallons of gas with no hazmat endorsement or placarding. ....

The exception to this would be on board a Washington State Ferry. Maximum gasoline container size is 6 gallons, with 12 gallons total. So count on driving around the long way (sometimes not possible, such as San Juan Islands or Vashon Island runs) if you're carrying more than that.

hotrod180 wrote:

Jeredp wrote:..... In WA state, you can haul up to 119 gallons of gas with no hazmat endorsement or placarding. ....

The exception to this would be on board a Washington State Ferry. Maximum gasoline container size is 6 gallons, with 12 gallons total. So count on driving around the long way (sometimes not possible, such as San Juan Islands or Vashon Island runs) if you're carrying more than that.

There are very few ferries of any sort on the dry side of our state