Backcountry Pilot • Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

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Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

I am going to go hunting for the first time in my life this season. I have the means to take game, but not to clean it.
Any recommendations for a blade(s).
Last edited by ExperimentalAviator on Thu Oct 06, 2016 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

A Havalon knife is very functional. Razor sharp, disposable blades, nice profile to work with and ridiculously light to carry. I've never taken a cape off a trophy animal but I hear they are the bee's knees for that kind of fine work.

I own a couple of Havalons but I 100% prefer my hand-sharpened Bark River Bravo hunting knife. It just feels more natural and traditional.

I don't hunt with a bow but I've heard bow hunters describe hunting in the same fashion. Less efficient, more satisfying.

Good luck!
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

x2 on Havalon style knives. FWIW compare the version Gerber makes. On the plus side Gerber uses a push-button release mechanism for changing blades. Swapping blades on the Havalon when your fingers are slippery and/ or cold seems like a serious accident waiting to happen. When changing a gummed up Havalon blade in the field I try to do it using the pliers on a Leatherman. On the minus side, you give up some of the effective blade length on the Gerber due to the mechanism, but I haven't found that to be a hinderance. Also, the Gerber and Havalon use blades of slightly different thicknesses- be sure to get the correct blades for the knife you get.
Consider adding a Wyoming Saw or Wyoming Saw II while you're at it.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

Hmm.... I'll have to see the Havalon and Gerber in person side-by-side and pick one then. A saw would not be a bad idea.

Thank's for the replies.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

What animal are we talking here? Elk or rabbit?
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

Leatherman Wave. Then forget and leave it in camp. This will insure a kill.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

soyAnarchisto wrote:What animal are we talking here? Elk or rabbit?

Mule deer. There wouldn't be much left of a rabbit using a .243! #-o
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

Another vote for Havalon, for skinning/caping they're worth the price. The weak link with the Havalon is that you can easily break a blade, and removing a broken blade requires caution if you don't have a leatherman or gerber pliers in your pack. I go through about 8 blades Caping a half life size on a sheep, Mule Deer about 6, an elk is more like 10-12 blades. That includes skulling out the animal. Once they dull, the blades get dangerous, my hands already look like they've been through a meat grinder this year, not worth pinching pennies using a dull surgical blade.

Also, a lot of the other guides really like the Sportsman's edge, which is a bigger knife and blade, has a push button release. Personally, I have one and it is kept as a backup, too bulky for my preference. Blades last about the same as the Havalon. All of them dull fairly quickly cutting through an animal with a thick hide.

For field dressing (gutting) an old fashioned hunting Knife is preferable. A Havalon will work, but definitely have to be really careful not to break a blade on that type of job.

A good compact bone saw is really nice to have sometimes too.

Happy hunting, good luck!
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

I'm not sure how you can continue to live with yourself after that typo.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Clening Game

Two knives make the trip with me - a havalon and a Cutco hunting knife. I have the Cutco with the smooth blade, but I hear that the double D blade is the better way to go. I sometimes only carry the havalon, but if space allows it's nice to have something a bit more stout for popping joints and such.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

Zzz wrote:I'm not sure how you can continue to live with yourself after that typo.

It helps to be a bit dislexic :wink: , typo fixed.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

ExperimentalAviator wrote:
Zzz wrote:I'm not sure how you can continue to live with yourself after that typo.

It helps to be a bit dislexic :wink: , typo fixed.


My anxiety is alleviated... haha


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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

The Havalon and similar products are simply large scalpels, and they have their place. If you're figuring on caping a B&C trophy, or you watched too much Dexter, they're probably a good choice. But aside from precision skinning, they have little, if any, value. Throwing away a blade instead of sharpening it is, to me, asinine.

To field clean a deer I'd pick a decent knife that might come in handy for something else, should the need arise. Off the top of my head I'd recommend a Fallkniven F1...not specifically a butchering tool, but it'll work just fine. It's an outstanding value for a truly excellent knife, and if you don't kill a deer this season you still have a quality tool.

Just as a reminder, good butchery isn't much to do about the knife, as more game animals have been butchered with stone tools than with steel tools by a fantastically huge factor. You don't need a surgically inspired disposable blade system to turn a carcass into food. You just need a knife you can handle well that will take a good edge and which can be easily, if crudely, sharpened in the field.

Also, given the choice I'd much rather have a coke bottle I could break into cutting shards and the help of an experienced butcher, rather than the finest cutting system known to man and nobody who's been through the process before. It's not that difficult, but neither is sex, and most of us made a mess of that the first time. Oh those grade school memories...

Here's an old review of the Fallkniven F1. I'd have just attached a link, but I can't figure out how. Sorry.

Hammer wrote:I really enjoy scandi ground high carbon knives with rather large wood handles. This is the sort of knife I reach for whenever I have a cutting chore and a choice of knives.
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But a knife that I end up carrying and using a lot has none of that. It’s the Fallkniven F1, which supposedly is the official survival knife of the Swedish Air Force. I’ve always wondered if those little red fish are the official snack of the Swedish Navy…

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The Fallkniven F1 has few of the characteristics I like in a knife…it’s convex ground, stainless steel, with a smallish synthetic handle. But it’s just a really, really usable knife.

I’m not a fan of stainless steel for the most part, but the laminated VG10 stainless used in the F1 is a very good steel. It takes a shaving edge with normal sharpening methods and holds it well. They also make the knife in 3G, a wonder-steel that’s all the rage lately, but which requires specialized tools and techniques to sharpen and which I’ve never been able to make as sharp as other steels. None of the 3G knives I own get any regular use just for that reason. The difference between a shaving-sharp knife and a just-sharp knife is pretty noticeable.

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The Thermorun handle is comfortable to me and my XXL hands. Some folks complain that it’s too small, but I find it adequate and quite appreciate not having to lug around a half pound of canvas Micarta handle material. These knives are available with custom handles for people who want that, but you get to pay for it.

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The blade is 4.5mm thick, making it a fairly beefy knife. Any thicker and I wouldn’t pack it. It’s a laminated blade, meaning that the edge is made from a harder steel laminated into softer steel that makes up the body of the knife. This makes for a tougher knife, as hard steel is also brittle steel. By using hard steel only on the cutting edge they get a very tough knife that still holds a great edge.

The tang runs through the handle and comes out the back so if for some reason you had to pound it into something, you’d be pounding on steel instead of handle material. The stoutness of the knife means that it’s suitable for careful battoning and splitting chores…something I’m hesitant to do with more delicate knives. Fact of the matter is I think that if you were careful and took your time you could baton this knife lengthwise though an airplane float if that was somehow advantageous to you. Unlike a lot of other knives, its robust construction doesn't get in the way of being useful. It's a good cutter.

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Notching around a dry Douglas Fir sapling to make a breaking point.
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Splitting the broken piece.
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Making tinder and kindling.
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The size of the knife is pretty decent. It’s the largest knife I’ll regularly cary with me but I’m not a fan of big knives…bigger than that and I’ll go for an axe.

Frankly one of the reasons I end up carrying the Fallkniven as much as I do is because of its stainless and synthetic construction. Love carbon steel and wood handles though I do, there’s a time and place for synthetics. If I’m going to lug a knife around I keep it handy, not in a dry bag or backpack, so it’s exposed to whatever I am.

21 days in Grand Canyon in December when nothing ever drys out and you can go for weeks without warming sunlight? I had enough chores to do every day to stay moderately dry and warm…dealing with a rusting knife didn’t need to be one of them. Rust attacks the edge first, so someone fastidious about sharpness isn't going to be real happy with a rusty blade.

Sea kayaking trip in the Sea of Cortez? Same deal…a carbon steel knife would rust to the point of distraction.

Kayaking in Nepal at the tail end of the monsoon? Stainless, please.

The Fallkniven F1 is to me a lot like a Glock. A blued 1911 might have all the class and be a joy to use, but the Glock gets the job done in any conditions without being pampered. Sometimes that’s just what I want.

Fallkniven makes several models of fixed blade and folding knives and I've yet to see one I didn't like. Prices are moderate...between one and three hundred dollars, which is what a lot of factory folders go for these days. In my experience the Fallkniven knives are a much better product than most US made factory knives, including the fancy brands.


Good luck hunting. My Uncle was a custom gun maker and the .243 Winchester was his pet round. He used it for elk and moose (NOT recommended), but he only took brain or spine shots, figuring anything else was just sloppy. I have two of his rifles... one chambered in .243 and one chambered in .308. They are that accurate.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

Any good sharp knife will do the job. Bring a simple diamond stone along and do a few strokes mid stream. Now the big issue is how are you going to get the ribs/horns/legs off a moose. I like a chainsaw but I just used a simple handsaw my buddy had that could cut the head off a moose in 1/2 min I think it was a simple small wall mart wood saw but it worked great. Havalon is what I would use if I wanted a good cape to mount.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

DENNY wrote:Any good sharp knife will do the job. Bring a simple diamond stone along and do a few strokes mid stream. Now the big issue is how are you going to get the ribs/horns/legs off a moose. I like a chainsaw but I just used a simple handsaw my buddy had that could cut the head off a moose in 1/2 min I think it was a simple small wall mart wood saw but it worked great. Havalon is what I would use if I wanted a good cape to mount.
DENNY


I used a small wood saw to get through caribou forelegs and skulls. A little elbow grease required but not bad overall.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

I think I might just order a F1.

Looking at hunting knives the only ones that appeal to me that I've found are the Benchmade Steep Country and the Fallkniven F1.
I pick the F1 over the Step Country because the blade is slightly longer on the F1 and no 'spine' sticking out of the grip like the Steep Country.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

I carry a few different knives. Nothing to the quality of what hammer posted but they work. Outdoor edge makes a few different ones that I like. Hold an edge well and a nice gut hook which I'm learning to not need so that knife might get scrubbed from my pack. A solid blade is very very nice for dealing with joints quickly. It can be done with a havalon but take your time the blades with take very little to no side pressure, or they break. I recently picked up the outdoor edge razor with exchangeable blades. My havalon is no longer going on trips. I was taught to use a plain ole square razor blade for turning paws, ears, and the such works far better then any knife.

I really like this knife. I have the edc version it saves a few oz's and when in sheep country every oz counts so your mileage may vary depending on hunt style.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CHSM2 ... ref=plSrch
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

I just picked up a Outdoor Edge Razor-Lite. Guess I don't have any reason now to not get a deer.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

ExperimentalAviator wrote:I just picked up a Outdoor Edge Razor-Lite. Guess I don't have any reason now to not get a deer.


You're hunting, don't worry - you'll come up with endless excuses on why the deer got away. :lol: I'm going up for an elk hunt next week, my second attempt this year. First one was a bow hunt (also looking for deer and bear), didn't come home with anything but I certainly have a dozen reasons/excuses why. This time it's a rifle hunt so my odds are improved at least a little.

Glad you found a good game knife. I have a Havalon and it worked OK for taking a deer apart, though the strength of the blade concerned me, and I did break one. I do recommend carrying more than one knife in general though, as things do get lost or broken. The Razor-Lite is a good game knife but also will not last long doing camp chores, or helping you in a survival situation if you have to bang on it with a rock or wedge it into something. I'm not sure where you're going but if it's anything like my hunts, I find myself away from other people/help as much as possible. A fixed-blade, solid tang knife is on my "#1 do not leave behind, always carry on you" survival item list - up there with making fire and water, and a compass and map because GPS batteries have a tendency to die when you need them most.

I've spent a few seasons carrying a Gerber Moment knife I picked up at Cabelas for $25 (I think they're $30 now). I expected it to be a crap knife for use around camp for that kind of money, but it seems to hold a blade well and I haven't been able to destroy it yet. The sheath is not great but it does its job. As such I recommend it to people. You will need a sharpener as well, and there are several small pocket sized options out there. I have a little yellow one with two sides (coarse and fine), a leather strop for finishing the edge, and a round bar for serrations.

I assume you're not going out solo (or are you?), but if you need more guidance on the rest of your gear shoot me a PM. I've spent a good bit of time and money finding stuff that works pretty well in the woods running around with weapons. Much like flying, it's very subjective to where you're going and what the weather will be like, but the right equipment makes the difference between a good fun hike and an uncomfortable or dangerous situation you'd rather not repeat.
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Re: Hunting Knife (or Knives) for Cleaning Game

colopilot,
I'm staying close to home and hunting (solo) a tree grove in the field next-door. About the only thing I've yet to get for hunting is a saw.
My dad set-a-side a hack saw I can use to cut the pelvic bone.
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