Looks awesome! It's nice when a mod actually pays off. Looks like things have greened up a whole bunch down that way. I might have even seen some left over husky tracks on one of those gravel bars.

Renegade wrote:...I might have even seen some left over husky tracks on one of those gravel bars.

You sure did!

Larger front shocks arrived today. Got them installed and it's amazing how such a small change in volume can make such a big change in supporting an airplane. The first, smaller diameter shocks at 300psi sat just a little bow-legged. These carry the airplane higher in stance at 210psi. Can't wait to test fly her.

Take the wings off that puppy and enter it in the Baja 1000....

So at 900+ hours and thousands of off airport landings I finally wore out everything in my Matco tailwheel assembly that can wear. I will send it back to the factory and they’ll rebuild it for less then $200. But I still want to fly during that time so I ordered a complete new assembly for about $900 which included new tube and tire as well. I will send them my old one and that way I’ll have a like new one for the next time.

At the same time as installing the new assembly I decided to add back tailwheel steering. I’m currently flying a T3 prototype that is a two coil over system originally. After testing a variety of spring rates (none of which I liked- too hard or too soft) I decided to replace the coil overs with dual air shocks, which I love. But, in putting back the steering the return spring on the left side was dangerously close to interfering with the left shock hi-pressure fill fitting, and probably would in flight.

I shot Dan a text with pictures and he suggested turning the air shocks upside down. That’s thinking outside the box and it might have worked, but that got me to thinking outside the box.

What if I replaced the left air shock with a coil over with a 1,000 lbs spring? Too light just by itself, BUT, with the air shock on the right side I could add what ever pressure I want, based on load, to get an infinite number of spring rates, AND if it blows a seal some day I’d still have a coil spring on the left side that would get me home on its own.

HUZZAH! The best of both worlds.

Necessity IS the mother of invention!

Phil,

Those shock struts look like a nice addition. Same with the tailwheel, though my preference is to keep the tailwheel OFF the ground as much as possible, but it's gotta come down at some point I reckon.

It might be worthwhile to fabricate a set of aluminum fairings for those main gear shock struts. I realize this is a draggy airplane, but it seems to me that could be a pretty easy way to reduce a little drag, and a pretty easy fabrication task. Might be worth the effort. Or not.

Thanks for the evaluation of all this stuff. Good info all.

When you headed down the pike, Texas bound?

MTV

mtv wrote:Phil,

Those shock struts look like a nice addition. Same with the tailwheel, though my preference is to keep the tailwheel OFF the ground as much as possible, but it's gotta come down at some point I reckon.

It might be worthwhile to fabricate a set of aluminum fairings for those main gear shock struts. I realize this is a draggy airplane, but it seems to me that could be a pretty easy way to reduce a little drag, and a pretty easy fabrication task. Might be worth the effort. Or not.

Thanks for the evaluation of all this stuff. Good info all.

When you headed down the pike, Texas bound?

MTV

Mike thanks for the thoughts.

I'm still working on being able to keep the Tailwheel off the ground all the time.

I'm gonna let Bob Breedon be the Guinea pig on fairing the shocks, he is planning on putting a set on Glacier Cub and fairing it to pick up cruise speed. If it works I'll build a set for mine.

Planning on leaving the SQ2 up here, so will be taking a smoker back to Texas. Probably fly the 185 up next year, be cool to have a speeder to explore with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this is about getting cylinder head temps down. Being the prototype SQ2 mine has a cowling that is unique to my plane, but this might still help others. From the beginning my problem has been with No. 3 cylinder. When on a sustained climb it would head north of 400 quickly so I'd have to slow to about a 200 or 250 fpm climb. Around here the only sustained climbs I do are to cross the Turnagain Arm (3,500 feet) and to cross the Cook Inlet at the Forelands (5,500-6,500 feet) so it wasn’t a huge problem-just annoying.

First thing I did was inspect all the cylinder baffling to make sure it was in place. Then I sealed up 99% of leaks between the baffling and the cowl (not much help really).

Increased the carb jet size. That helped delay the temperature rise but didn't do much else.

About all that was left was to install cowl louvers. I really like the monster ones on the new XCub but alas they wouldn't work on my cowling and are crazy expensive.

After much searching I located some that would work and installed them. Bingo! That dropped No 3 in line with the others and now I can do a sustained 750fpm climb with CHT holding at 395. What is really interesting though is what must be going on inside the cowling regarding airflow. When I first start the engine and let it warm up No 3 climbs far faster then the others, in the same manner/pace it did when climbing before putting the louvers on. Yet as soon as I'm flying No 3 falls right in line with the others.

I got the louvers from Flyin’ Miata.

Looks good! I asked on the other post, but did you put them on both sides or just the right side?

Both. And flat plates as well if needed in the winter.

Looks great! Out of curiosity, did you consider the CC cowl flaps? I can't decide between CC like cowl flaps and louvers.

whee wrote:Looks great! Out of curiosity, did you consider the CC cowl flaps? I can't decide between CC like cowl flaps and louvers.

Thanks. I did. They are expensive as well although nothing like the XCub louvers. Just didn't really like the looks of them.

Thanks Barnstormer.

Tell us more about your landing light?

dougs wrote:Tell us more about your landing light?

AeroLEDs Microsun landing lights. Visiting their website it looks like they've updated it.

The SQ-2 is now wearing a pair of Carbon Concepts Skis w/ Airframes Alaska Grizzly Claw Ski Drag.




The pedestal is taller then usual on skis. The sides of the skis are turned up helping the ski not catch an edge while the plane is turning.




The bulk of the rigging was purchased from Stoddards. The brake hoses and fittings from Alaska Rubber.
http://www.stoddardairparts.com
http://alaskarubbergroup.com




The blue brake line fitting on the Grizzly Claw comes installed loose from Airframes so be sure and either replace it with a different one you prefer or tighten it. A 5/32" Allen wrench is required to remove the cylinder so the fitting can be tightened.

The next weather day I do my first ever flight on skis!

A couple of observations:

1) The cub axle has zero torsion absorbent motion. Contrary to a cantilevered MLG. There have been failures due to folks turning in soft and rough conditions to tightly. Mainly from abuse. I like the turned up edges! Will help slide instead of putting twisting motion on the axle.

2) Make sure your mechanic used a clean calibrated swedge tool. Never put cables into service without a go-no-go gauge that is in good shape. I have seen many swedges that didn't pass, including my own. AC 43.13 has acceptable data if you want bigger cables and swedges. I know you are experimental and it's your call on data and hardware.



3). If your tail sinks in a hole or very low spot in relation to the horizontal axis of the skis, the limiting cable may become to tight and damage something. I have seen aluminum skis damaged because the limiting cable for some reason or another became too tight.

I'm sure MTV and others have plenty of good ideas.

Flying skis is hairy business. One startling fact for my gigantic skis, is takeoff was (4) times longer on soft freash snow!!!

1) So you are saying I should install a crosswind gear.
2) I'm thinking about replacing the cables with some Hammer rope, what do you think Hammer?
3) Thanks for the tip, not sure what can be done about this. Good news is I have oversized tail feathers so more support back there maybe.

8GCBC wrote:A couple of observations:

1) The cub axle has zero torsion absorbent motion. Contrary to a cantilevered MLG. There have been failures due to folks turning in soft and rough conditions to tightly. Mainly from abuse. I like the turned up edges! Will help slide instead of putting twisting motion on the axle.

2) Make sure your mechanic used a clean calibrated swedge tool. Never put cables into service without a go-no-go gauge that is in good shape. I have seen many swedges that didn't pass, including my own. AC 43.13 has acceptable data if you want bigger cables and swedges. I know you are experimental and it's your call on data and hardware.



3). If your tail sinks in a hole or very low spot in relation to the horizontal axis of the skis, the limiting cable may become to tight and damage something. I have seen aluminum skis damaged because the limiting cable for some reason or another became too tight.

I'm sure MTV and others have plenty of good ideas.

Flying skis is hairy business. One startling fact for my gigantic skis, is takeoff was (4) times longer on soft freash snow!!!

Barnstormer wrote:1) So you are saying I should install a crosswind gear.

Cub MLG is great no reason to change. If you like going slow.

Barnstormer wrote:2) I'm thinking about replacing the cables with some Hammer rope, what do you think Hammer?

That's funny. Use the gauge. Don't fool around. Synthetics are not good crust cutters.

Barnstomer wrote:3) Thanks for the tip, not sure what can be done about this. Good news is I have oversized tail feathers so more support back there maybe.

Mostly nothing, it happens because of unseen terrain inconsistencies. But, it does happen. If you see your limiting cables become super tight for some reason check for a slipped nicro fitting etc.

8GCBC wrote:... If you see your limiting cables become super tight for some reason check for a slipped nicro fitting etc.

My mechanic cut the cable with a little left exposed and told me to check it as part of my preflight to be sure it hasn't slipped.