denalipilot wrote:Sorry for thread drift Rob, but I'm interested in the fuel totalizer for my 170B as well. Only thing is, I mainly fuel from 55 gal drums with a wobble pump, so I'm not sure how I'd go about calibrating it. I know I could buy one of those in-line, battery-powered flow meters and put it on the nozzle hose, but they're another $100, which has always been a little hard to swallow. Is there a better way?

When you have a fuel flow indicator you can update how much fuel is in the tanks when you power up. You can either add or subtract. So what I would do is get a fuel dip stick that you can measure the amount of fuel in the tanks with. Then when you jump in you see how much the totalizer said was in the tanks and then adjust by adding or subtracting! Then you can reset your fuel used for each leg of the flight. If you fill the tanks all the way up then you just hit that you filled it up and it goes to your pre-set full amount. It's all pretty easy. If you have more questions PM me.

I know I could buy one of those in-line, battery-powered flow meters and put it on the nozzle hose, but they're another $100, which has always been a little hard to swallow. Is there a better way?

I bought a used one on ebay. It has always done well
FWIW
Gary

I got the panel out last night along with some other things.

I did exactly that to my 170 years ago. It's important to draw a line as to how far you want to dig if you want to use it next flying season.

Scolopax wrote:I did exactly that to my 170 years ago. It's important to draw a line as to how far you want to dig if you want to use it next flying season.

Very true statement, I'm having trouble deciding where that line is!

Looking good Rob. My advice is to do it once and do it right. A center stack is a great addition.

Scolopax wrote:I did exactly that to my 170 years ago. It's important to draw a line as to how far you want to dig if you want to use it next flying season.

You aint kidding! Very important thought. Next thing you will know you will be so far down the rabbit hole you will have forgotten what the airplane was for in the first place. (dont ask how I know)

That said... Dig as hard and fast as you can. Its worth it.

robw56 wrote:

I got the panel out last night along with some other things.

Quite a chunk you bit off Rob. That above pic shows just about all I got left on my "self resto" project. I started from the baggage and worked my way forward. Just need to replace all the insulation forward of the doors with the closed cell foam (including the firewall, yuk). I used 1/2" on mine.

On another note, my last flight before my annual last month, my tach crapped out. That's after my single cylinder EGT went out like 18 months ago. So today I ordered an ei CGR-30P and figured I won't throw good money after bad replacing every instrument as it breaks with another. I'm gunna replace em all with one. I'll let you know what I think when I get it up and running. I did fly over to Bend yesterdy and play with one on the bench at ei. So far I like!

Looking forward to the rest of your project.
Tom

[quote="TomW"] I started from the baggage and worked my way forward. Just need to replace all the insulation forward of the doors with the closed cell foam (including the firewall, yuk). I used 1/2" on mine.
I would like to see pictures, did you go with the selkirk precut insulation or buy uncut from spruce or ? I am deciding how far to go, my interior is fairly good, but I want to get rid of some weight and the musty 50s smell!

FWIW... One thing I have learned along the way one both the 170 and 180 RE: Selkirk closed cell foam is this: If you are putting it behind panels, than go ahead and order the "kits" from Joni. If your plan is to leave it exposed in the "utilitarian" style as I chose to do, do NOT order the "kits" and just order bulk material.

Although the customer service from Selkirk is top notch, (and they are the nicest people to boot) the fit and finish and quality control of their stuff leaves a bit to be desired. On my 180 project, I would say I had to have them resend aprox 35% of their panels due to uneven scissor cuts, hap-hazard chalk lines, and panels that were smaller than needed. After a complaint and second shipment (with continued errors,) I just had Joni send the bulk material and I did the cutting. To her credit, she shipped me the stuff out on her dime and made it right. (rare these days.) I also had similar experiences with some of their fiberglass panels (do not expect anything to fit out of the box. Have your Dremel ready)

All that said... I urge all to patronize Selkirk as they are a small US business and are worth getting to know, if only by phone. (just be a bit patient.) I would order the bulk material from them rather than Spruce.

RE: foam, I went with 1/4 inside the cabin, and 1/2 on the firewall. My experience with the 170 was that the 1/4 was just as quiet if not quieter than the stock insulation and interior panels. The 1/2 foam, although enticing for sound deadening, is a bit unruly to work with and harder to get to look great (and weighs twice as much) We will see about the 180 when it flies, but I am expecting it to be quiet.

Daedaluscan,
I started with and bought enough un-cut from Spruce to do the entire plane and discovered that it kinda falls apart in your hands . Then I bought some un-cut from Selkirk and it's much tougher. Didn't go with the pre-cut so I could trim it to fit tight. Almost stays in w/o glue. I just dabbed a small line of glue dots across the middle of each large panel and tucked the edges in to the space provided between bulkheads and longerons. Worked well and someday somebody will appreciate it when they have to remove it. I got a small amount of 1/4" to go around the back windows. The 1/2" was too thick to hide around them and not protrude into the headliner there. Like you I have interior over it. Didn't go with the utility look.
You'll love it. It does give you that new car smell. You don't have to have mad skills or talent to do it, just patients.
I would love to post some pics but my computer gave me some real crap the last time I tried to clear my cookies, so no go for me with pics. I'm a real computer idiot!
Have fun with it. You'll be glad you did it.
Tom

bigrenna wrote:FWIW... One thing I have learned along the way one both the 170 and 180 RE: Selkirk closed cell foam is this: If you are putting it behind panels, than go ahead and order the "kits" from Joni. If your plan is to leave it exposed in the "utilitarian" style as I chose to do, do NOT order the "kits" and just order bulk material.

Although the customer service from Selkirk is top notch, (and they are the nicest people to boot) the fit and finish and quality control of their stuff leaves a bit to be desired. On my 180 project, I would say I had to have them resend aprox 35% of their panels due to uneven scissor cuts, hap-hazard chalk lines, and panels that were smaller than needed. After a complaint and second shipment (with continued errors,) I just had Joni send the bulk material and I did the cutting. To her credit, she shipped me the stuff out on her dime and made it right. (rare these days.) I also had similar experiences with some of their fiberglass panels (do not expect anything to fit out of the box. Have your Dremel ready)

All that said... I urge all to patronize Selkirk as they are a small US business and are worth getting to know, if only by phone. (just be a bit patient.) I would order the bulk material from them rather than Spruce.

RE: foam, I went with 1/4 inside the cabin, and 1/2 on the firewall. My experience with the 170 was that the 1/4 was just as quiet if not quieter than the stock insulation and interior panels. The 1/2 foam, although enticing for sound deadening, is a bit unruly to work with and harder to get to look great (and weighs twice as much) We will see about the 180 when it flies, but I am expecting it to be quiet.

Greg, how much of the 1/4 foam should I order for the 170 and what kind of glue did you use? I'm also curious if you know how much weight the foam adds for the full interior like you have it?

I got an hour or so of stripping done today after work, I'm hoping to have most of the interior stripped of paint by the end of this weekend.

Not really sure on the amount to order. If from Selkirk, just tell Joni what you are doing and that you don't want her to cut anything. She knows how much to send.

RE: weight.... I didn't really weigh the foam but it is sooo much lighter than the factory insulation and panels. I did weigh everything I removed from the aircraft and was amazed at just how much each piece weighed. For example, (these are aprox from memory) the shag carpet was 12 lbs, side panels were about 2.5 lbs EACH! Headliner, upper insulation and headliner bows were around 12. Hatshelf and brackets around 2.5 etc... Its amazing just how much you can loose. I got a small backpack scale which was invaluable as well as great to have when loading. http://www.amazon.com/Expedition-Backpack-Luggage-Travel-Digital/dp/B007HJLQ9Q

It wasnt as dramatic on my 180, but for the 170, I shed quite a bit of lbs on the seats. If I remember right, it was about 10lbs total by tossing the old uncomfortable springs for nylon and hi density foam. (plug here for Ron at Aviation creations.)

Another big place I dumped weight was on the panel, old antennas and wiring. In my case I was able to dump almost 30 lbs! This was done by tossing old boat anchor electronics/avionics and replacing with lighter modern units. The E.I. MVP was a big help here. At only 2.5lbs, it allows you to toss so much.

With all this aircraft weight loss, its too bad Im getting fatter each day...

More pics Rob-

No new pics, I got a little bit of work done this weekend but not as much as I would have hoped for. I got some more stripping done and I was busy with the pneumatic drill. I drilled out all the rivets holding the rear windows in and a lot of random pieces that were used for holding in interior panels and/or headliner. Dudestickle stopped by to see the mess I've made and he even helped with a little stripping. Thanks Justin!

denalipilot wrote:............I mainly fuel from 55 gal drums with a wobble pump, so I'm not sure how I'd go about calibrating it. I know I could buy one of those in-line, battery-powered flow meters and put it on the nozzle hose, but they're another $100, which has always been a little hard to swallow. Is there a better way?

How about filling a can up with exactly 5 gallons at the gas station, marking the level, then filling the same can to the same level with your wobble pump, and keeping track of how many "wobbles"? A buddy of mine regularly fueled his airplane out of a drum using a twirly pump, he knew just how many twirls equalled a gallon of gas.

But, wouldn't you run the risk of running out of fingers before it was full?



MTV

mtv wrote:But, wouldn't you run the risk of running out of fingers before it was full?



MTV

Take your shoes off...

how much of the 1/4 foam should I order for the 170

Rob
I ordered 20'. Seemed to be plenty. I wanted a little extra in case I made any mistakes and had thoughts of doubling it up in some places like the lower baggage area to keep skins from getting dented.
Gary

I did a quick scan of this thread... always good to see how others are doing a refurb! I saw a quick post about a 180hp upgrade for the 170. Is there an active STC for putting a 180hp engine in a straight 170 out there?

thanks,
gunny

Gunny wrote:I did a quick scan of this thread... always good to see how others are doing a refurb! I saw a quick post about a 180hp upgrade for the 170. Is there an active STC for putting a 180hp engine in a straight 170 out there?

thanks,
gunny

Del Aire in CA has that STC for you.
John