So I like having all my stuff with me when I go places. (Who doesn't?) The Savage Cub leaves a little to be desired in the baggage hauling department. So I found Emflys pics of his baggage platform and I have seen Courierguys (but I can't find them here) so I know it's been done before. The trip to Idaho next week is going to require some gear. And I need the room!

The savage has a backseat that is held in by two 3/16 bolts. That's it. Super light weight seat and hardware. So I planned on using the existing mounting locations for my platform.





I am using 3/4 in aluminum C-channel for the attach points to the fuselage. You can see it in the bottom of the next pic.



Last night I welded up the 1/2" welded steel square tubing frame that will support the load.





The center supports are 1/2" flat stock.



The bolts will be replaced with quick pull pins.

I will attach the steel to the aluminum with rivets. (I think. Maybe self tapping screws. We will see.)





The platform itself will be .25" kydex. I will try to mold out a relief section for the portion of the stick that will be elevated above the level of the platform. The Kydex should be here in a day or so. I am going to install u bolts for lashing points on the platform perimeter.

I'll post more pics as I progress.

(Edit: the tubing and flat stock are 1/2" not 3/4)

I'd say that priority #1 should be keeping the load out of those pulleys and cables. If you're molding Kydex, perhaps build it like a tub with a lip tall enough to prevent any interference with those flight controls.

The Kydex is going to be heavy and floppy. You will be happier with 1/4 AC plywood both in weight and rigidity.

Looks like you're doing a real nice job. Anxious to see your final product.

Zzz wrote:I'd say that priority #1 should be keeping the load out of those pulleys and cables. If you're molding Kydex, perhaps build it like a tub with a lip tall enough to prevent any interference with those flight controls.

I agree with that 100%.

I'm going to experiment a bit, but the back (think where the back seat rests) will all be covered to the piece of tubing where the seat back rests. However, the upper portions around the entry to the baggage will be left open. Also, my strobes box is right there mounted to an extremely "lightweight" piece of aluminum. It's borderline too flimsy.

The rans comes with a tunnel type cover for all the pulleys and cables Savage did away with I assume to save some weight.

I'm going to try to have a lip of some height on the sides (like a cookie sheet) and the lip will be higher in the front and back. I'm a kydex virgin, but the bends (edges) will add rigidity I believe.

So, the 2'x4' sheet of Kydex showed up. The shipping label says 17 lbs. Pretty heavy. I obviously wont need all of it so it will be interesting to see what the final weight will be. It is super rigid so stiffening on purpose wont be necessary. I could also drill holes in it to save weight.

We made the sides of our extended baggage on our S7 out of .060 (too heavy) and 1/4" balsa plywood for the bottom. Should have used .045. I believe we added about 6# over the factory "bag". Lots of baggage room now is the good part, I'd say its probably on par or maybe slightly larger than standard baggage in a super cub.

The thin Kydex is very flexible and can be worked with a sheet metal brake. Pretty cool stuff. Don't know about .250.

Could u post a few pics of yours gb?

Sure. I have my pics at the hangar still. I will get down there today or tomorrow.

Heres what I have mocked up so far.







Kydex

I posted a bunch of pictures long ago on the Yahoo Rans S-7 site on the subject, look in the photo albums under baggage area and/or cargo deck. I've built two, one on my short tail and not one for the long tail.

I kept mine really light by using aircraft ply, and considering the grain or flex of the ply when using it. In other words running it at a right angle to the supports re: the plywoods flex. (?) I have some (my side walls in the main baggage area) that is less then 1/l6" THICK but strong enough. My main cargo deck is less then 3/16". You will soon be out of time, if you plan to make the Garden Valley thing, so see ya there, and I'll show you how I did it, more then one way to do it of course but I have not seen one lighter then mine yet However you do it it will be much more functional then that fabric bag back there now.

Coming along nicely. I'll let the pictures do the talking. My welds leave a little to be desired. I'm a little rusty.

It's still pretty heavy. I haven't weighed it yet. The plan is to continue to shape it, round corners, trim, etc. i will prob end up cutting slots in it or drilling holes to shed more weight. It's not flimsy at all. I can switch from seat to extra baggage in prob less than three minutes. Just a few pin pulls.

Crappy pic but this is it with a daypack, two jackets and two fly rods.

That turned out pretty nice. Got a flapper disc and a 4" grinder? I'd soften those sharp corners/edges. You might have already planned on that.

Any more pics of that square bezel 'Cruiser?

GB, looks good. Do you have one that's taken from a little further back? I'm interested in seeing the whole picture.

Finished the sans-passenger seat baggage platform today. I'm very happy with how it turned out. The only thing that I don't like is the cover for the rear stick. I honestly ran out of time today so it looks like shit. But it will work for this trip.

I weighed everything. As completed, I gained 8lbs. I can live with it for now. I know I can get it lighter by chopping up the metal frame and remove more material on the kydex. This sumbitch is super stout. I'd feel comfortable stacking a couple hundred pounds on it and flying off.



The outside lightening holes double as lashing points.

Nice work!

How flexible is that Kydex? What thickness? It looks like 5/32 or 1/4" or something. I'd think you could get away without the steel frame using that thickness of plastic.

Looks good!

Works great!

Zzz wrote:How flexible is that Kydex? What thickness? It looks like 5/32 or 1/4" or something. I'd think you could get away without the steel frame using that thickness of plastic.

It's 1/4". It's pretty rigid plastic. I might tinker with it after the trip.