Figure I post this here

Flight & Tim Avery:
I get questions quite often about "how much preheat-what kind ?" and "I preheated my engine but it just barely starts"--You need 2 things to get her going Magneto firing and fuel in proper operating.Plugs not firing is a common problem--The engine needs to be turning over approx. 200 -300 rpm to fire the magneto and get this mother started . Wet Cell batteries are not very good in this environment> I'll take a SBS-J16 any day on the firewall.The Plugs need to be clean and good to fire properly if the Mag delivers the spark to the cylinder where a small bit of fuel (either prime or Fuel injector ) has been delivered . Engine itself should be preheated to thin oil and reduce resistance to turning over.Multi Grade ie 15/50 or such oil will start flowing to internal parts sooner. When engine starts let it idle for period maybe 2-3 min. before adding and power above 1000rpm.You can start taxi while it warms up.Oil pressure should be in green and cylinder head temp coming up. Don't pour the coal to engine until your temperatures /pressures are good. Preheat in Temps below 40 is good advice- Where I have electric power I use 2 drop lights in cowl with old sleeping bag over outside > where power is NOT available outside I've got a camp stove(fueled with 100LL) with Dryer hose to go in cowl and cover outside.Time to do this preheat varies with temperature and length of time exposed to cold environment. Best world would be heated hanger .

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Bill Reid PAMA>AMT>VHPA>
A&P/I.A.CPA Rigger,Pilot AZ50
"Have tools can travel"

I have a Reiff heater, which heats the cylinders, the oil pan, and last year I added the oil cooler heater. In really cold weather, even with the airplane hangared, I cover the cowl, prop blades, and spinner with Kennon covers. I also have an interior heater, which keeps the inside around 45F or so--much easier on gyros as they spin up if they're warm rather than cold. I have a single thermostat (made from 120v house thermostat for electric baseboard heating), which I adjust to come on at about 40-45F. Starting is just like normal, fuel pump on to pressurize the lines, then off; 3 shots of prime; crack the throttle; crank. Easy starts.

Cary

I agree with most of what said there however with Lycomings, it's not recommended to idle under 1000RMP, as per the lycoming cold weather operations manual. It does not allow for adequate oil flow to the cam and also fouls plugs..

After start, do not idle engine below 1000 RPM. It’s not good practice to idle engines below 1000 RPM at any time. This is particularly true during cold weather to prevent lead fouling of spark plugs. (Exception - Piper Pressurized Navajo)

I've been told 1200 rpm is a good setting, with no more than 1400 before oil reaches 80F.

The full manual pdf can be found here
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&ved=0CFMQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lexingtonflyingclub.org%2FLycomingaTextronCompany-ColdWeatherOperations.pdf&ei=dy3WUPD6A4aj2QW-7IC4Bg&usg=AFQjCNFb8UignFRPm9WMgGT21SDFVAyXRg&sig2=JKv3bE1PofJJSE6BTUo8lg&bvm=bv.1355534169,d.b2I

My O-470R in the 182 starts in 2-4 blades with the cylinder+oil pan heaters on below 45. Ace hardware has the programmable thermostat that has a 120 VAC plug in for $25, works just like the ones in your home.

I also carry a trickle charger for 1-2 amps to keep the cold battery ready to go.

If I am at another field without an AC plug below freezing or so, I prime a little less than normal, pull through 4 blades or so, then start and advance another prime stroke as it starts to catch. It catches a lot better with primer than using the throttle on mine, and I have managed to flood the carb when using the throttle, which is not much fun in the winter.

If it's near zero, I've used the whisperlite and 6' of metal dryer duct. I don't like to do that, but the risk of getting a dead battery trying to crank it is too real in the middle of nowhere. I've done this enough times, but it still makes me nervous. It takes more than an hour of the whisperlite to get the engine above freezing when it is 0F out, and the oil is probably still stone cold in the sump. I've seen folks with a quick drain take their oil with them after they tie down, and put it in during the preheat, which looks slick; it's just not very practical for me when I'm away from the home field.

I use the reiff system money well spent plane fires up like its July

I warm the engine, and then use my rebuilt starter to get it going. The factory starter, on my 0235C in my C120, was so warn out that it took both front and rear bushings, and new brushes as well as several points re-soldered. I took it to a shop where the A&P knew what he was doing, and had the right equipment.
Now it really spins over, I just put it back in last Saturday, under the supervision of my A&P/IA of course, and what a difference.

http://www.valleyaero.com/tbo.html

Brrr. Cold clear and sunny and a chance to fly. Engine tips above are a general guide for making TBO, but have some specific hints for cold weather. Most already covered in this forum.

There's some good stuff here.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3124&hilit=frozen+ball

Gump