I'd like to use regular car gas into useable -minus etanholale -alkahole - to use in 182. I have a 120 gallon pickup tank with pump on 14 foot trailer. I've done test adding water to a jug and watching water and alachole move to bottom .Thinking of having a sight gauge on side to see where crap is and draining that out.
I find that most of the regular car gas has about 10% -by measurement .Anyone got ideas or suggestions ?
Also does anyone have source for fuel filters .

You will have to bump up the octane when you remove the alcohol......

Here is a homebrew way to do that...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

What is the octane of the base gasoline ( aka blendstock) ? Might be that the blendstock of 92 octane E10 is high enough for your airplane (80-87).
I think adding a measured amount of water, agitating it, then draining out that same measured amount (plus 10% of fuel quantity) of crap would work, although it'd be a major pain in the ass to do it in enough quantity to make it worthwhile. And then whattaya do with the crap-- pour it out on the ground?
Is there no ethanol-free gas at all available where you live, Bill? I'm lucky, I do have a couple local sources for E-zero near home.

Regular 100LL is $5.75 / 91 octane auto gas is $3.52 go figure . I realize it may be a pain but with flying season coming up it make it "more reasoble" go figure say 100 hrs at 12 gph = 1200 gallons x $2.23= $2676.00 bucks saving . Right now I,m getting my fuel cells replaced going to run approx $1800 bucks still save back 876 bucks . " distilling " out the ahole is important and I have more time than money to enjoy brewing my own fuel. I've found no "ahole" fuel at local fuel distributor for $4.55 gallon . I'm just trying to save some cash which is always in short supply around our house.

Stol wrote:You will have to bump up the octane when you remove the alcohol......

Here is a homebrew way to do that...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

Not so certain you want to pour toulene or xylene in your bladders.

My understanding was that E-10 raised octane ratings by approximately three points...anyone else know anything about this?

Why not run up to st. George and get some non eth?
http://pure-gas.org/station?station_id=10529

Sinclair 91 E10 is made using 88 E0. Don't know about the others.

"Not so certain you want to pour toulene or xylene in your bladders."

Anyone know the real short and long term affect on the fuel system? I've got the STC for my PA-22 but don't know about mixing all this stuff. But I sure would like to save some money on fuel. What about just adding about 10% 100LL in your mix?

Bill, sure is too bad you missed all the posts about Eagle Fuel cells being made out of Nitrile. I think their price might have been less than what you paid also.Here is a quote from their website.

Once installed, the cell is externally durable, internally impermeable, resistant to ozone damage and shrinkage and is compatible with all aviation and pump gas fuels, oils, and most corrosive fluids.

When you have any sort of incident with home-brew, alcohol-decontaminated, auto gas in your plane, what will your insurance agent say?

This sounds like a very bad idea in every way...

182 STOL driver wrote: Regular 100LL is $5.75 / 91 octane auto gas is $3.52 . ........ I've found no "ahole" fuel at local fuel distributor for $4.55 gallon . ...

If you're gonna take the $3.52 fuel & precipitate out the 10% ethanol, the price is actually gonna be $3.91 for what you use. Only 64 cents cheaper than the ready-made E-zero-- that's about $7.68 an hour more at 12 gph. I think I'd just get the E-zero... but if your time isn't worth more than that, and if you're 100% certain you're getting all the ethanol crap out, go for the home-brew.

Bill,
I want to do this too. The only thing I might add is to try chilling the fuel after the water has been added. You might get more water out if the gas is cold. The gas is going to get cold as you gain altitude, I'd want to make sure more water isn't going to precipitate out. Keep us postd on the results.
RP

Dinking around with fuel, avgas or mogas, is extraordinarily risky. The kaboom factor is just too great to play with it, without proper training and procedures. It would be a shame to save a couple bucks a gallon ($240 for your tank), and blow up your pickup and airplane in the process. Sometimes penny pinching isn't a good idea.

Cary

It is actually quite simple to convert the fuel with little risk. After pumping the MoGas into a suitable safe container, add several handfuls of shredded $100 bills, let them dissolve completely and you should have successfully simulated Avgas.

Cary wrote:Dinking around with fuel, avgas or mogas, is extraordinarily risky. The kaboom factor is just too great to play with it, without proper training and procedures. It would be a shame to save a couple bucks a gallon ($240 for your tank), and blow up your pickup and airplane in the process. Sometimes penny pinching isn't a good idea.

Cary

I will agree with Cary here...unless you have the technology, the right kind of equipment to do this, and the ability to test your end product, I would stay away from this foolishness. I used to work in a refinery where we produced all kinds of fuels, home brewed fuel I would only trust in your lawnmower...if that! If you want or have an STC for mogas use that. As always test any fuel you buy and filter it before it goes into the airplane. (Experience talking here!)

Av8r3400 wrote:
what will your insurance agent say?

If you have an STC, and the STC says 87 or 89 octane unleaded car gas without ethanol is legal, and you have unleaded car gas without ethanol in your tank, than they cannot say too much. If you took it out, or some guy in a hard hat at a refinery took it out, what is the difference if it is all out?

The question becomes if, or what, something is put into car gas OTHER than ethanol, which would cause any safety concerns, for your particular airplane.

Bill's airplane has chemically sensitive rubber bladders for fuel tanks. His reality will be very different from my airplane with aluminum tanks, which is different than guys with plastic or fiberglass tanks.

The reality is also that millions of cars are driving around on ethanol-laced, chemically augmented gasoline, and running just fine for millions of miles. More reliably than the average 40-50 year old Cessna, by the way. Anyone notice that there are now much better and cheaper ways to cover your Cub (or airship) than cotton soaked in Nitrate Dope with aluminum powder these days?

If changing the tanks, O-rings, seals, and hoses to some other compound is how old airplanes could get equivalent fuel cost/reliability, then it is worth discussing. Some airplanes will never be able to use car gas, and some will. But this is not VooDoo and making metal or plastic tanks is not rocket science folks. All those complex fuel systems and hoses and monkey-motion on today's cars somehow works very well on car gas. 1950's neoprene rubber hoses and bladders might not be up to this task, but Teflon and Viton and polypropylene and polyethylene are.

There are two key points. Reducing risk by using appropriate materials, and then good thorough testing... just like any other airplane upgrade or repair.