Avid flyer,
Since you don't have fabric and the other covering supplies left over from building, and apparently would have to buy (which would be a pain, even the smallest quantity would be too much, you'd have a lot of waste), just paint it to match as is .... Don't fly with round unfaired tubes if you can avoid it, it's just too damn draggy. The Highlander pilot: just because you can keep up with others does not mean it doesn't make a difference drag wise, especially if you have the three strut extended a-frame gear, that's a lot of exposed round tubing.... every little bit helps, mostly in fuel burn on long xc's. I don't notice the difference particularly in mileage when I keep my tires at max pressure in my car versus less, but I know it helps, that and taking the windshield wipers off when not needed, and taking the knobs off the radio to save weight.....Just kidding there! I've been hanging out on a hyper mileage site, man these guys get extreme, no spare tire, no floor mats, everything not absolutely needed goes, most ditch the side mirrors and go with cameras or wide view internal ones.
I have the extra drag of 26" tires and a belly mounted swiss muffler, ( so who the hell am I to give an opinion on drag reduction!) but I kept my gear legs faired, and BTW I can't tell the difference with the tires and muffler drag wise, but it's got to be there!

Avid Flyer,
What the R/C builders said about using monokote makes sense, as does the comments about leaving the tubes exposed for inspection purposes. Here's a thought for you, suppose you could take a piece of cardboard large enough to make a template (for an aluminum sheet metal skin), in a shape that would cover both the inner and outer portion of your strut assemblies and fashion said template to wrap around from the front (leading edge) of your strut tube. As the skins wrap toward the trailing edge of the wooden fairing they could be designed to screw into the wood for easy removal -or- extend past the trailing edge and come back together past the wooden part and be fastened with rivets. Harder to remove but still inspectable. Care could be taken in the template fitting process to make a nice, functional and removable strut cover. You could even give it an 'Alaska look' by attaching the whole mess with wire ties or fishing line......just kidding there!
Hope this made sense.

tcj wrote:

RobBurson wrote:Leave the legs uncovered. If you go on a long trip and want them more aerodynamic, use duct tape. Then peal it off after the trip.

That's what I did before installing wing strut fairing. I duck taped some wood fairing on to test the gain. It was 10 mph so I bought the high dollar PVC fairing.

Avidflyer, you could fly with the bare wood fairing still installed then remove them or vise versa and duck tape them on to test the gain. I'm talking about just fairing and not the entire gear cover, like Clay suggested above. I actually like the look of fairing and no cover on the landing gear.

I have been looking for that high dollar PVC fairing stuff.... Where did ya find it.?

Stol asked

I have been looking for that high dollar PVC fairing stuff.... Where did ya find it.?

The Kitfox factory. http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/
It's about $300 for a wing strut kit which is four eight foot pieces and aluminum cuffs to cover the fuselage ends.

Some people just snap it on and go. I installed it with construction adhesive and filled the ends with superfill.

Hey Joey,
Fly with the bare legs and if you decide to cover let me know and I have all the supplies. Nothing that can't be done. its easy. But fly with them first. Later, Will

Here's my gear legs after using some tapered wood fairing. Hoping to get them painted and under the airplane soon.

Looking good Joey - you get your pedals done?

Ya Emmet I'm waiting for them to show up in the mail. My Dad and I worked on them while I was home visiting and we ran out of time so he finished them up and mailed them out to me. I gotta make a run to the Asscrackistan this week so project will be on hold for a little bit.