Since yesterday was a beautiful day here in Ventura County I decided to go put a few laps on the 7ECA that I frequently rent at SZP. I figured 6 landings would be sufficient to limber me up and save a little of the flying budget to do the same next weekend. While venturing into the lower end of the final approach speed envelope, I found some pretty consistent 5-600 ft landings which I felt pretty good about. On the sixth and previously planned final landing, after a slightly rough three pointer, as I began to dance on the pedals something didn't feel right, kind of loose like I'd lost a rudder cable or something. Once I got stopped it was all I could do to make the right turn off of the runway. Taxiing to parking was a real bear too. When I got parked and shut down I got out to investigate. Both rudder cables were just fine but the tailwheel steering spring on the starboard side was MIA, explains why I had such a hell of a time turning right. After a brief search of the runway while dodging traffic (felt a little like Frogger) I discovered the spring right where I left it, at the point where I turned off the runway. Talking to the line guy he sayS "oh yeah that happens on occasion don't worry about it" so I talked him in to letting me keep it and now have my first broke airplane souvenir. with spring
without spring
on my wall

SD

I recall doing that with my old 7ECA. Fun airplane.

Nonstandard spring set up? Somebody shopping at Ace Hardware?

Broke one myself last summer landing at Anahim. Torch and pliers to bend another hook into it, got me home.

Bought and installed 2 new ones from ACA, kept the old ones for spares. The one in your photo is what the ACA ones looked like.

Mine has eyebolts that drop down from the rudder horn for attachment. Will now have to look and see if I'm the one running a nonstandard setup or is just a variation between models.

Just out of curiosity...

is this something that one can suspect or see coming during the pre-flight inspection? Is it worth replacing them every 5 years or x hundred landings ?? Or is it so rare as to not worry about it at all?

Just curious?

mine pop off all the time. take the other one off. Other then going across hills sideways, I like going commando, no springs.

Safety draw bar springs

http://s.gc1.co/is/image/Grainger/1NBT1_AS01?$mdmain$


bumper

Denali wrote:Just out of curiosity...

is this something that one can suspect or see coming during the pre-flight inspection? Is it worth replacing them every 5 years or x hundred landings ?? Or is it so rare as to not worry about it at all?

Just curious?

These same type (tension springs) came with my kitfox kit. I had a wise old aviator look my airplane over before I made the first flight. The only recommendation he made was to pinch the hooks on both ends of those springs with pliers so they couldn't fall off. I check those hooks closely each preflight for any sign of wear or scoring. They are made of very tough steel.

I switched to the springs that Bumber posted. I find that the plane has beater manners with regard to turning, and the rudder horn and tail wheel ears are not under constant tension, which I think is better.

I will stay with this type of spring from here on.

I have seen all manner of springs. I crashed my Pawnee midway through my second season. My mechanic knew a Stearman operator in Mississippi. He offered to let me use a Stearman that was up north of Eau Claire, Wisconsin if I would go get it for him. He sent me $10,000 and said to take the plane if the Aero rebuild on the 450 hp Pratt and Whitney was as advertised. It was, however the airplane had duct tape everywhere and there was only bailing wire for tail wheel steering.

I don't like those compression springs like what bumper posted. A hard landing or a badger hole can cause the tail spring to flex enough to fully compress the springs and break either of the steering horns. I heard of this from several guys but didn't believe it till it happened to me. After I broke the steering horn off on a Bearhawk I flew it for a dozen landings "unchained" and I thought it was fine that way. The owner put some wimpy tension springs from spruce on and they worked fine, just kinda wimpy and I wouldn't be surprised if they break regularly. My Luscombe has some pretty beefy tension springs on it, also from spruce, that I doubt will ever break.

There is an allowance of how much the hole in the rudder horn can oblong/wear before it is no longer serviceable; it is listed in some AC but I can't remember the number. I'd bet that is the reason for the eyebolt, wear out the eyebolt instead of the rudder horn.

The compression type springs are supposed to be hanging a tad loose and it is wise to do the same with tension type.
This prevents one side turning if a spring departs.
It also prevents pulling on the rudder horn when tailspring is flattened to full deflection so no broken horn or bent steering ears.
Slack springs also prevent oscillation when one spring reacts against the other in a shimmy situation.
The eyes in rudder horn are used to get a better direction of pull between horn and steering ears to help prevent bending them upwards.