Zane wrote:That was great! Really makes you appreciate the value of fairings on gear legs.
In an inverse way, I have used this round tube drag thing to help heat my shop.
I have a large homemade wood boiler (burns clean, with NO smoke) for my radiant floor heat system in my shop, hangar and house, backup to the solar hot water system. During initial startup, I use a small fan that's rigged to the combustion air intake, this really kicks it in the ass and makes starting a fire super easy, like blowing on twigs when starting a campfire.
But I found that if I run the fan for more then a few minutes, the stove flue temps get way too high, (using an internal flue thermometer) so I have another fan that kicks on automatically that cools off the stack and blows it around the shop. Experimentation showed that keeping it simple was the best way: no ducting around the 8" stove pipe was needed, just the airflow hitting the round pipe, somewhat counter intuitively, was the most effcient way to remove the excess heat. Something called the Coanada effect
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coand%C4%83_effect is responsible for the air hitting the pipe and then, at least at the speeds involved here, clinging to the pipe all the way around it, thus effectively acting a pretty good heat exchanger. In other words, what makes a round tube so draggy, works to my advantage in this situation. I was going to duct the airflow around the pipe, in an effort to get it to stay attached, it wasn't needed.
My new cub style landing gear on The S-7S, since I'm not trying to cool it off

has every round tube, including the cabane V, faired. The results after fairing were dramatic, well worth the small effort involved. Reducing drag, like reducing weight, works everytime it's tried!