EDIT: I should be clear that this is a brand new engine on a stand that I have built.

I'm about to bolt new cylinders onto my IO-540, effectively closing up the crankcase. It will likely sit for a while before it's first run. I'd like to do some corrosion prevention for storage.

Cam lobes are manganese phosphate coated from overhaul. Cylinders are new and black oxide coated. I'm primarily concerned about exposed steel on the crank and rods. Federal Mogul Sealed Power assembly lube was used on all journals and bearings.

I've heard of guys pickling engines by just filling them to the brim with oil. Is that actually the best way?

There are products called fogging oils that come in an aerosol can that are formulated to coat internals without running off. Just wondered if anyone had used them.

I'm tempted to use the same fogging method I used to apply Boeshield in my 170...garden sprayer with high pressure fogging nozzle.

Curious what others have done. Engine will be stored in heated garage.

Got a factory new lyc and they cyl had a bunch of oil in them. They had really neat caps with o rings that went over the intake and exhaust ports.

http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/epp ... kkey=24999


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Tom wrote:Got a factory new lyc and they cyl had a bunch of oil in them. They had really neat caps with o rings that went over the intake and exhaust ports.

http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/epp ... kkey=24999


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Thanks. I have the exhaust port caps with the o-rings. Keep the spiders out.

I generally but not exclusively use ACF50. Boeshield T-9 is too "waxy" and may build up in you induction tubes but, you would have to use a hell of a lot of it over the years. Boeshield is great in more exposed applications we're build up does not matter.

The sprayer is the Corrosion X System, which you get direct from Texas.

In our experience, we have been using marine aerosol fog oil for winter layup with good results. A couple of the brands have a vapor emitting anti corrosion additive. We pull upper and lower plugs and use a long applicator straw we get from Spruce to thoroughly hose down the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. The long straw (about 18"long) allows us to keep the can right side up for good flow out of the can and also allows for application at different angles to acheive complete cylinder wall coverage. We either reinstall the bottom plugs or install plastic plugs. On top we install cylinder desiccant plugs. We are starting to use engine drier pumps that inject super low moisture content air into the crankcase to reduce rusting on the cams. No moisture=no rust. We also believe that Cam Guard helps as well. I have a couple of freinds that leave their float planes outside all winter. After draining their oil in the fall, add only a few quarts of oil laced with 3-4 pts of Cam Guard and do a short ground run to coat the insides of the motor. Then they spray down the cylinders and install desiccators. Also put cloth bags of desicant in the exhaust and intake before duct taping closed. Tape off the breathers as well. Winters on our lake fluctuate from just above freezing and very moist to sub zero. So far bore scoping shows minimal rust issues. -As always, internet information is free. Your mileage may vary.

Zzz wrote:

Tom wrote:Got a factory new lyc and they cyl had a bunch of oil in them. They had really neat caps with o rings that went over the intake and exhaust ports.

http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/epp ... kkey=24999


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Thanks. I have the exhaust port caps with the o-rings. Keep the spiders out.

I used the link to preserve a couple engines


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RockHopper wrote:....We also believe that Cam Guard helps as well. I have a couple of freinds that leave their float planes outside all winter. After draining their oil in the fall, add only a few quarts of oil laced with 3-4 pts of Cam Guard and do a short ground run to coat the insides of the motor. ....

Dunno what you guys pay for it, but Camguard goes for about $25 a pint here.
So 4 pints = a hundred bucks.
I think I'd be inclined to use regular "pickling oil"--
after all, long term non-flying storage is what it is specifically designed for.
Phillips Aviation Anti-Rust Oil is $26 a gallon from Spruce,
the other oil makers probably offer sometjhing similar at similar prices.

"Fogging oil"... good name for a band .

hotrod180 wrote:

RockHopper wrote:....We also believe that Cam Guard helps as well. I have a couple of freinds that leave their float planes outside all winter. After draining their oil in the fall, add only a few quarts of oil laced with 3-4 pts of Cam Guard and do a short ground run to coat the insides of the motor. ....

Dunno what you guys pay for it, but Camguard goes for about $25 a pint here.
So 4 pints = a hundred bucks.
I think I'd be inclined to use regular "pickling oil"--
after all, long term non-flying storage is what it is specifically designed for.
Phillips Aviation Anti-Rust Oil is $26 a gallon from Spruce,
the other oil makers probably offer sometjhing similar at similar prices.

Phillip Aviation Anti-Rust is excellent, really good protection. Excellent adhesion, staying properties, Mil-Spec.


Always available in my hangars:

low rider wrote:"Fogging oil"... good name for a band .

Analogy:
Kind of the same as Acme "Hydraulic Jack Replacement Oil" found in discount type stores. It's black sluggish oil. The oil I throw out is better! I use MIL-H-5606A in anything hydraulic!! Lesson learned.

Better use MIL SPEC in my opinion, for aircraft.

I would just use a good fogging oil for the case. When you put the cylinders on use Cam Guard and pickle oil mix. Filling the engine with oil will only cause issues because intake or exhaust valve will be open on several cylinders and now you have exhaust/intake full of oil.
DENNY

On the back of the ASL Camguard bottle: " do not use on new, freshly overhauled or top overhauled engines for the first 10 hours."

Was going to use it today until I read this. Ended up just fogging the sucker with a mix of 20w-50XC and Federal Mogul Sealed Power.

I always use the dehydrator plugs and the anti rust oil.



https://m.skygeek.com/dehydrator-plug-1 ... gLvUfD_BwE

PAMR MX wrote:I always use the dehydrator plugs and the anti rust oil.



https://m.skygeek.com/dehydrator-plug-1 ... gLvUfD_BwE

Definitely...ordering some tonight.

Good thing someone reads the bottle!!! I think what you have will do great.
DENNY

Zzz wrote:On the back of the ASL Camguard bottle: " do not use on new, freshly overhauled or top overhauled engines for the first 10 hours."

Was going to use it today until I read this. Ended up just fogging the sucker with a mix of 20w-50XC and Federal Mogul Sealed Power.

Dammit, Zane......you’re never gonna be a REAL pilot if you persist in actually reading instructions.......

Good catch in any case.....

MTV

Just finish the damn plane and go flying.[emoji16]

Haha....my life is complicated. Not much airplane work getting done currently due to having a 2 year old and a 2 month old. Occasionally I can get away and do something cool though. My IO-540:

Ahhh, blue stripes...Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels. The best.

Engine gray or unpainted – Standard steel cylinder barrels.
Orange stripe – Chrome-plated cylinder barrels.
Blue stripe – Nitride-hardened cylinder barrels.
Green stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.010 oversize.
Yellow stripe* – Steel cylinder 0.020 oversize.

Man that looks so good! It will be so awesome when it all comes together.