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Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

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Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

I just bought some 26'' bushwheels and some double puck clevelands from alaskan bushwheel. While trying to install my brakes today I was very dissapointed to find out that there isn't enough clearance to mount the brakes with the early gear. Has anyone had this problem before? What can I do? I guess I'll have to switch to lady legs or early 180 gear that has a smaller ankle at the bottom? Thoughts?

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robw56 offline
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Pretty sure you have to go to 180 gear. That is the single reason why I have not upgraded to double pucks.
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

somebody knows the answer on the 170 site.

might get more than one answer.

looks cool with the big wheels
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

It's about time she gets the boob job she deserves. =P~
Least wise that's what my wife calls it. [-X
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Rob

I went through this some years ago. Technically I believe there is not legal (documented) way to put the 26" Bushweels and double puck brakes directly onto a stock 170.

I have written about the round about process on the "INTERNATIONAL" 170 site a couple of times a long time ago.

The Round About process is to first get an STC from a fella in Quebec Canada which allows the installation of 180 gear on the 170. Then you get the STC from Wup for the double pucks, and 26" tires.

I also bought a new set of wheels at the same time. Much easier when you want to change back when you are going to run on pavement for a while. The Bushweels do not like turns on pavement, Even If you keep them at max. pressure on pavement, you will wear the rubber down to the cord at about the two o'clock, or 1/3 outbound of the center of the tire. Make the widest, slowest turns you can with them on pavement, even at max pressure.

Believe Wup knows the Canadian contact or I can dig it up next week.

Hope this helps

Chris C

PS: I do have a set of legs forward 185 gear. Changed them out to save a bit of weight as the are about 1/16" thicker. They are two part epoxy primer.

PPS: I strongly suggest that you add the P-Ponk gear box at the same time - you know - while were at it - project creep sorta thing.
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Interesting,

We just put a set on here on Bill Ables C170 with the 29's and double puck brakes..... The STC is legit for the 170 on stock legs and I think you need to clock the caliper down one set of holes..... I will try to get a look at Bill's plane this after noon
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Just turn the Calipers down Like Hotshot suggested??!!
There is nothing saying you have to have them where you put them.
All you need is the feed on top and the bleeder on the bottom side, they don't require 100% vertical.
GT
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

One of the replies I got from the 170 site suggested flipping the torque plate 180 degrees (inside to outside). Looking at the pictures I think he might be right. I just pulled the callipers out of the box and the torque plate was already oriented this way and I assumed in the correct position. I'll have to take a look at it after work and see if this will work.
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Hope that works, but it does not look like if you double the offset of the torque plate that it is as wide as your caliper body?
GT
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

the plate is "faced" correctly it just need clocked differently...
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Hottshot wrote:the plate is "faced" correctly it just need clocked differently...


There's no way to do this besides drilling new holes in the torque plate though right?
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

robw56 wrote:
Hottshot wrote:the plate is "faced" correctly it just need clocked differently...


There's no way to do this besides drilling new holes in the torque plate though right?


Ya I can't see how you could rotate or move those torque plates the only could be moved 90 deg at a time. There not on backwards are they Rob?
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Just roll them to the next hole.
But looking at the picture there appears to be just 4 holes in the plate? and they are not indexed evenly around the plate? Might be time to find an A&P, or just drill 2 new holes?

GT
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

robw56 wrote:
Hottshot wrote:the plate is "faced" correctly it just need clocked differently...


There's no way to do this besides drilling new holes in the torque plate though right?



Well.... Yes and no... I have the 6 hole plates here.... wanna trade? Give me a call ..
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Rob,

You probably thought of this already, but have you tried swapping the calipers left to right on the two gear legs? I only thought of this because it looks in the photo like your bleeder could be oriented upwards. Course it's been several years since I got mine, and I can't remember if they ship with those little black rubber caps on both ends or not. Most likely you have tried everything already. I can check mine to see if I have 4- or 6- bolt holes, but I am also on 180 gear legs, so from the sounds of it it wouldn't affect my setup one way or the other. So near but yet so far. Hang in there, it'll be a sweet ride when you get it. I'm looking forward to a pirep. Did you ever mount Goodyears in the interim?

-DP

p.s. Do they fit if you were to rotate the torque plates 180 degrees aft (if the bolt holes permit)? Not sure about 170s, but I recall seeing plenty of planes that run them that way.
Last edited by denalipilot on Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

HotShot
Well.... Yes and no... I have the 6 hole plates here.... wanna trade? Give me a call ..

Again showing how come you are having the success that you are experiencing!

Thanks

GT
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

denalipilot wrote:Rob,

You probably thought of this already, but have you tried swapping the calipers left to right on the two gear legs? I only thought of this because it looks in the photo like your bleeder could be oriented upwards. Course it's been several years since I got mine, and I can't remember if they ship with those little black rubber caps on both ends or not. Most likely you have tried everything already. I can check mine to see if I have 4- or 6- bolt holes, but I am also on 180 gear legs, so from the sounds of it it wouldn't affect my setup one way or the other. So near but yet so far. Hang in there, it'll be a sweet ride when you get it. I'm looking forward to a pirep. Did you ever mount Goodyears in the interim?

-DP

p.s. Do they fit if you were to rotate the torque plates 180 degrees aft (if the bolt holes permit)? Not sure about 170s, but I recall seeing plenty of planes that run them that way.


The bleeder is oriented up on that picture. You can put it on whichever end you want. I originally tried putting the caliper on the aft side of the gear, then tried the front side. No goodyears for me, I decided to just go for the real deal.
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

AKBW is sending me new torque plates that should do the trick. Thanks Wup!
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

Hi Rob

I am going through the same problem any chance of see photos of the final installation of your brakes and wheels?
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Re: Known issues? double puck clevelands on early 170 gear

I ended up getting 6 hole torque plates from Wupp at Alaskan Bushwheel (this was when they were still in Oregon). This allowed me mount the calipers in a way that cleared the gear leg with plenty of room. But it caused a new problem. With the calipers mounted lower than normal the bottom of them would rub on the tire (26” bushwheels) especially at lower PSI. So to fix this issue Wupp sent me some spacers with longer bolts to place in between the brake discs and the wheels. This moves the brake discs and therefore the calipers further out and reduces or eliminates the possibility of rubbing on the tire. The spacers are 1/8” thick each of I remember correctly and I ran 2 of them per wheel with smaller tires you can get away with only one per side or they may not even be required. This is the most you can use. The brake disc will be VERY close to the gear leg at the bend, or “ankle” if you will, but it won’t touch. I can’t get any good pictures now because I sold the 170 2 years ago. Here’s a picture from my photo album where you can see the orientation of one of the brake calipers. I hope this helps.

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