I had a very similar experience while boogie boarding at Hapuna Beach on the Big Island. Without my glasses it took a while for me to realize things were getting smaller! I did NOT know about swimming at 90 degrees. What saved my butt was a set of waves that, even as far out as I was, broke behind me, (none had been breaking anywhere near that lucky set) that I luckily caught, and rode the entire way in, I mean I stopped in knee deep water with little kids playing around me, my best ride ever and it probably saved my life.
Still not sure if I had a dodged a bullet or I just freaked for nothing, I got up on the shore and two locals came up and informed me in no uncertain terms I had indeed dodged a bullet, they saw the whole thing

On this same trip, alone on a black sand beach at dawn my ex-wife lived nearby, I saw TWO water spouts, about 1/4 to 1/2 mile away. NO wind on the surface where I was, that was spooky also!
Yet another time in Big Sur, in 1973, I landed at high tide on a very narrow beach, and had an expecially big wave hit me about waist high and damn near took me down and drag me out. I was still hooked into the glider. I got a picture of me walking out still hooked in, soaking wet!