My utility is extremely reliable, making a cost effective way to open my shop and also the hangar doors somewhat problematic for the rare times the grid is down. But, as luck would have it, a recent 6 hour scheduled down time for maintenance caught me at home, and wanting to go fly, and i couldn't open the frigging door!

I need some input from an electrician type: my amp probe tells me the motor draws 4560 watts under operation, at 240 VAC. I have a welder/generator, a good quality Honda one not Harbor freight junk, that lists as 4000 watts output, BUT only at 120 VAC. It has 2 20 amp receptacles, and 1 30 amp. Is there a way I can take the hot leg from each of the 20 amp plug ins, and the neutral from each, and make the door pump motor work, even at a reduced speed? Any use would be extremely infrequent (probably never, once I got geared up). Buying a bigger gen set is not on my list of needed things right now, not cost effective, my only other options are: a 120/240 transformer, for a bit over S100.00 (3000 watts max output though, so still underpowered) OR use my Kubota tractor as an aux hydraulic pump. Rigging both doors with the required quick disconnect fittings, and making up the hose required, would easily exceed $100.00, more like $200.00 I'm thinking. So, I want to explore the electric option thoroughly first. I forgot to add that any e mod I would do would switch out the grid, so I wouldn't be back feeding it, I do know that much.

I like the tractor option. Running a motor on marginal power can fry it fast. I doubt the generator produces two phases for the two 20 amp sockets. Measure the voltage between the two live terminals I’m guessing it will be zero.

Ya, in all honesty I think the tractor is the way to go. Simple and reliable.

You might consider a 12v pump and motor similar to a plow pump set up. That's what my Higher Power Door has as well as a 115v motor and pump. They are both contained in the same housing and use the same reservoir. I only use the 12v system. I use 4D battery and it doesn't need regarding very often so a small solar charger should be all you need.

I doubt the generator produces two phases for the two 20 amp sockets. Measure the voltage between the two live terminals I’m guessing it will be zero.[/quote]

Good point, I knew there was something about that scheme I was overlooking!

Since I posted about this, a neighbor who owns an industrial hose business stopped by, and since we trade favors back and forth (I just helped him install a 6 KW solar grid tie system) he will help me out with the needed hydraulic hose and fittings, cheap. I already have a unused aux hydraulic circuit on the 3 year old L3301, and will just need the hose and the fittings. Here's a shot of the pump unit showing how it already has some tees in the circuit, it should be as simple as replacing the caps on the closed off tee ends with the proper disconnects, and a 10' long hose extension to reach the tractor. Luckily, both hyd motors are close to a man door.

"You might consider a 12v pump and motor similar to a plow pump set up. That's what my Higher Power Door has as well as a 115v motor and pump." That would be the best way, if it was more of a commonly occurring problem to justify the expense of doing that. SURPLUS CENTER, lists several such power packs, starting at $350.00, hard to justify for such intermittent, maybe never.... use! Plus the battery.

Then there is the hand hyd pump option, but they cost more then rigging the tractor will cost, and would be slow as hell.

Don't forget to check oil compatibility, probably need to change out your door oil to what the tractor needs.