GRIB forecast 2016.02.21@17:00 PST.

(Only 29 days until "Winta Pau Brah" [Winter season completed])

"Large WX" in Pacific:

http://khon2.com/2016/02/21/high-surf-warning-for-north-west-shores-of-oahu/

Largest waves and seas may travel North of Oahu again:

The "Eddie" Contest, is go. Checkout this wipeout (viewer discretion is advised):

http://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/31318973/watch-surfers-collide-in-eddies-worst-wipeout-of-the-day

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"Home Movie" of today's waves. West side of Oahu 10-15'. Did not go out! Just photography of the ocean in this video. Tomorrow, I might drive the boat up North and surf off anchor if it's not knarly.

North Shore surf, the "Eddie":

He may not pass an FAA medical but, Clyde Aikau can surf 30' foot waves at (66) years old:

http://khon2.com/2016/02/25/clyde-aikau-dedicates-final-eddie-ride-to-late-brother-next-generation/

This photo (credit Hawaiinewsnow.com) pretty much sums up the last few storms in the North Pacific this Winter (23 days until Spring still).

I have seen Waimea Bay "Closed-out" in person during short period storm surf (on shore gale force winds). But, to see the Bay closed out with a guy riding it is very unusual. I was on the West side checking the surf when this photograph was taken at the "Eddie". This photo will be hard to beat in the future if, ever in my opinion.

Correction #1:

There were two guys on this wave. On closer examination it appears a surfer is somewhere under the "Lip" to the right. The surfboard wake is very clear. I missed it. Wow.

To takeoff that deep at the Bay is by far heroic in the surfing world. God Bless his soul.

The weather changed quickly. The West Shores are totally calm today.

Abundance of marine mammals, etc...on the ocean:

* Whales (the biggest Humpbacks I ever saw!). The USCG made calls on VHF 16 warning about whales in front of Pearl Harbor. The end of my video shows the tail and pectoral fins. Gigantic!

* 100s of Dolphins (forgot to insert the pictures my wife took in the video, [sorry Darling])

* A Monk Seal! Very rare. The picture of the black object floating is a huge Monk Seal.

* Sea turtles

We played around on the surfboard waiting for another swell. Nothing to speak of occurred.

Yet another home movie messing around with a surfboard;

Music: Kool and The Gang, "Funky Stuff", Rick James "Super Freak"
GoPro: 8GCBC

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

CamTom12 wrote:Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

If you get a chance, to get out here, call.... You have my number. Aloha.

This morning there are still gales transiting North of the Hawaiian Islands. Approximately (860) NM Northwest winds are forecasted at (50) KTS !



Buoys @ 05:30 PST combined "Seas" (wind waves short period) and "Swell" (swell long period ) height in feet: Note a 10' open ocean swell with a long period (low frequency) can create a (20)' "Breaking wave" in shallow water (the shore or off shore reef/bar).

8GCBC wrote: Note a 10' open ocean swell with a long period (low frequency) can create a (20)' "Breaking wave" in shallow water (the shore or off shore reef/bar).

That's pretty cool

CamTom12 wrote:

8GCBC wrote: Note a 10' open ocean swell with a long period (low frequency) can create a (20)' "Breaking wave" in shallow water (the shore or off shore reef/bar).

That's pretty cool

Here is an example of a reef about (90) miles from Los Angeles. Which ships have hit or been struck by surf.

The treacherous "Cortes Bank":




People surf Cortes Bank these days for fun. Here is somebody riding (90) NM from the beach!


Could you imagine the look of early mariners seeing this wave in the middle of the ocean. What the ...!

Back to "Reality". "Old Man Winter" is still knocking.



(15)' buoy reading = 25'-45' surge/surf in shallow water: