A friend of mine sent me the following information on the effectiveness of different products to use on rusted fasteners (nuts, bolts etc.). Sounds kind of interesting.

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ............ ......... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
HC

I wonder where the LPS product fits in this test.
Never have likes WD40 because of its residue buildup.

Got a stuck spark plug in a C-85. Maybe I should try this mix !?!?!?!?!?
Think I still got 50 pounds or so of torque left in me....

Seafoam makes a spray that eats carbon for lunch, they may help you on the stuck plug. It is used often to remove plugs intact on the 3 valve 5.4L Ford truck engine that uses the specialty plugs (cost about $10 to $15 each ). Those plugs have a bad habit of letting the ceramic separate from the metal threads....and get costly to remove.

and,

speaking of oils.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

GR

I work at a tool store and in my experience, Kroil is amazing, but not practical, and I have never found anything some PB Blaster and a little heat cant undo. We swear by that stuff. I am curious to try the ATF-Acetone. Thanks for the tip.

Very interesting! Who would have thunk that ATF and acetone worked the best, I like mine on ice with a twist of lime. All kidding aside, that’s handy info, and I always have the ingredients on hand.

I like Free-all, it puts lots of the others to shame.

ATF and acetone is an old school trick, my Dad showed that to me, have been using it for years, always try the new stuff and still going back to it.
5056 or MMO works also if you run out of ATF!
GT

Nobody uses mouse milk?

Mr Rusty. Out of production due to EPA for many years. Worked well but I will try the ATF/Acetone mix. Seems like a bottle of it with a throw away brush would sure beat any aerosol for simple. Just pour off 1/2 yer bottle of ATF in the creek, add the acetone and you're all set. I wonder how well it keeps?

Emory Bored wrote:Mr Rusty. Out of production due to EPA for many years. Worked well but I will try the ATF/Acetone mix. Seems like a bottle of it with a throw away brush would sure beat any aerosol for simple. Just pour off 1/2 yer bottle of ATF in the creek, add the acetone and you're all set. I wonder how well it keeps?

mousemilk?

Glidergeek wrote:

Emory Bored wrote:Mr Rusty. Out of production due to EPA for many years. Worked well but I will try the ATF/Acetone mix. Seems like a bottle of it with a throw away brush would sure beat any aerosol for simple. Just pour off 1/2 yer bottle of ATF in the creek, add the acetone and you're all set. I wonder how well it keeps?

mousemilk?

No. It was called, (if my brain is responding correctly) Mister Rusty. They had half a dozen different products including a high temp brake mechanism lubricant that once you got one speck of it one you would travel all the way to your ears.


EB

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/se ... h&search=1
Some high dollar stuff wish I'd a known about the acetone & atf. Had one hell of a time taking my Scott 3400 head off the stinger.

Kroil Been using it for 35 years or more never found anthing that would do as good!!! Once used it to diasemble a 12 cyl cad engine that every body had given up onWhy worry about the price if it works.. Just my experance

I tried mixing acetone and atf, They are not very soluble together. Homogeneous compatibility is usually important when making a compound.

I was told about the ATF mix, tried it, and have liked the results. I have a small syringe with this mix in it, and it permits precise application on anything and everything. The Cessna pull starter wire control in my airplane had become very very hard to use. Injecting this ATF/MEK mix forcefully into the wire control, and working it back and forth 50 times, made it like new again with 1/10 the effort to start the engine.

I tried mixing acetone and atf, They are not very soluble together. Homogeneous compatibility is usually important when making a compound.

exodus, make sure you use a straight petroleum atf and not a synthetic!
GT

I normally use Kroil, Kroil’s nonvolatile and can be used in closed environments, like mines.
I was disassembling an old turbo charger on the exhaust side I ran across some rusted bolts, I remembered the acetone and ATF trick, worked great !

Another product that I swear by is a clear chain and cable lube by Lubriplate, best stuff ever for cables and lube points, does not turn to gum, penetrates and lubricates. Battled with a rusted fuel control cable on my tractor for several years, break it loose oil it, next season same thing, used the Lubriplate chain and cable lube several years ago and it just keeps getting smoother, I use it on my control cables, pulleys, chains, and they stay smooth year to year. Good stuff