I am building an experimental aircraft, a pusher, that will be a bush plane, using the highlander gear. The spot where a center mounted throttle quadrant should go is getting pretty busy and I have been considering moving the throttle up into the overhead, as in a Twin Otter. Having no experience flying with an overhead throttle I am looking for opinions and impressions for anyone that has. The flap controls are already in the overhead and would be right at hand, with no interference between the two.

What is it like to fly with an overhead throttle?

-M3X

M3X wrote:I am building an experimental aircraft, a pusher, that will be a bush plane, using the highlander gear. The spot where a center mounted throttle quadrant should go is getting pretty busy and I have been considering moving the throttle up into the overhead, as in a Twin Otter. Having no experience flying with an overhead throttle I am looking for opinions and impressions for anyone that has. The flap controls are already in the overhead and would be right at hand, with no interference between the two.

What is it like to fly with an overhead throttle?

-M3X

All the Grumman twin amphibs (Widgeon, Goose, Mallard, Albatross) have overhead controls. So does the Lake series of amphibs. They come very natural to hand, and I would go there in a heartbeat.

I suspect that the primary reason these manufacturers elected to put the engine controls overhead was to shorten the control cables, which is a very good reason in itself.

MTV

A downside I can see would be maybe part of your view being blocked by your hand/arm on takeoff and landing. Also maybe something to hurt your head on in a crash. Just a couple things to add not sure if it matters.

It seems miserable to me... maybe. I've never flown an overhead throttle but it seems like something that's a personal preference if you're building. I can see my arm falling asleep.

Like MTV said, the Grumman flying boats and Twin Otters, it's probably a way easier cable run. And those things have gone for decades without any notoriety regarding the throttle location.

Lots of time in Widgeon's and Twin Otter's, no problem, very natural feeling.

Just keep "crash worthiness" in mind while building, try to keep it away from your mellon in case of crash or nose over.

Lot of time in the Goose. Overhead works fine but rigging can be a bit troublesome.

Thanks for the responses; they have confirmed what I suspected. I am going to go with the throttle overhead. Good point about the risk of hitting it; I *think* I can cant it forward enough it will be out range of my head. Additionally I am settled on a helmet anyway as there are plenty of other tubes nearby to bounce off.

Being a pusher the throttle cabling rigging will be easy with the engine on top and three-some feet behind.

I appreciate this community's willingness to offer experience and impressions; Merry Christmas all!

-M3X

I remember seeing a Champ (Tri Champ version) around Reno in the late 1960's. It was a factory twin engine tandem with engines on the wings. It had overhead throttle controls at front and rear seats. Designed for cheap multi engine training. Even had dummy retractable gear controls - it was fixed gear. I think yoke in the front and stick in rear. Maybe you can find photos- if you do share them!

In aviation if you could think it, it was probably tried.

M3X wrote:Thanks for the responses; they have confirmed what I suspected. I am going to go with the throttle overhead. Good point about the risk of hitting it; I *think* I can cant it forward enough it will be out range of my head. Additionally I am settled on a helmet anyway as there are plenty of other tubes nearby to bounce off.

Helmet is a good call and will solve many problems. But as you're thinking the measurements, keep a couple things in mind.

o As your torso goes forward your spine and abdominal muscles will all stretch making you taller that you normally are.

o As your entire body pushes against the belts (particularly the lap belt) the belt will push soft tissue out of the way and really start to hold you only when they hit bone.

Between those two it's really easy to get your head 3-4 inches further than you expect and a case can be made for as much as 6-7 inches.

We have a member here who has direct experience with this and can out himself if he wishes.

Best plan is don't crash.....

MTV