I just became the proud owner of a beautiful Stinson 108-1 equipped with a PZL Franklin 220 installed new in 2000. I have searched to the ends of the interweb and compiled what I believe to be a comprehensive list of people one needs to know in order to stay in parts for this engine. While it's pretty clear that getting Franklin parts isn't as easy as, say, Lycoming or Continental parts, the three Franklin mechanics I spoke with all said that it's not near as horrible as some would have you believe. I don't know firsthand but I'm sure I will find out soon enough. I do know that I got a helluva bird. With the potential parts scarcity in mind, I'm extra keen to take the best care that I can of this engine and that's going to require some input from those of you who are personally familiar.
So far:
- I've read one account that pulling power all the way to idle on short final is a bad idea since three F220's in that person's experience were prone to quit under those conditions. It was speculated that the three engines in question may have been peculiar. Any thoughts on this?
-I've also read about making sure to have lifter/rocker adjustment checked every 100 hrs, true?
-Being a high compression engine, I understand that Mogas is out of the question but I've many times read that the Franks don't tolerate leaded fuel very well, is this true of the 220 or only the 150/165 varieties? How should I proceed accordingly?
-Mag checks at 1100 or 2200 instead of 1700 are called for, what's that all about?
-"Always run it until it's hot and then for no less than an hour"
-"Use the power settings in the Franklin manual that call for the highest RPM settings.....high RPM and low MP provide the least stress on the crankshaft"
-I've been told that "proper starting procedure" involves getting up a few rpm before switching on the mags to prevent damage to the dampener if a partial start/kickback occurs. I've also been cautioned against this procedure since it may result in raw fuel in the exhaust and dangerous backfire when switching on the mags. Thoughts?
-I'm also aware that there are some manufacturing differences between the PZL's and the original Franklins i.e. forged vs cast components. Can anyone speak to whether this makes care of a PZL any different from that of an original Frank?

I may be too far in the weeds with this but I really want to take the best care of this critter that I can, I plan on keeping it a for long time.
Any other tips as to how to or how not to operate this engine, what it does or doesn't like will be greatly appreciated.

SD

Pics to follow after the ferry flight.

SD,

While I can't comment on the care of a Frank 220, I will say CONGRATS on getting a new bird! I look forward to seeing some pics from the ferry flight.

Where do I start, I have been flying a Franklin 220 for the last six years that I built out of pieces, and have well over 700 hours on it now, the PZL and the American are nearly identical, with exception of materials that were used and the PZL has a larger oil pump, NEVER mix PZL cam components or gears with American engines.
The Franklin 220 has a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio; NEVER run MOGAS it will destroy your engine from pre ignition. Not to contradict myself but, if I was stuck and had no other alternative I might run 91oct. MOGAS with high RPM and greatly reduced manifold pressure, just enough to do the job. If you had an engine analyzer it would greatly minimize the risk.
Adjusting valves every 100 hours, total BS. The Franklin’s have hydraulic lifters, and in order to set the valve clearance you must bleed the lifter which in tales removing rocker, push rod, push rod tube and lifter. If you need to replace the push rod tube seals then it will be necessary. Use Real Gaskets where ever possible, my Franklin has no oil leaks.
Only deal with services that Susan @ Franklin Engines recommends. Otherwise prepare to get your butt reamed and your parts destroyed. Lesson learned the hard way!!!!!!!!!!!!! There are many thieves out there. Most Franklin engine failures are due to the people that are working on them!
If you don’t have an engine analyzer on it already, gets one and learn how to use it! Know when the engine is getting hot, set the alarms around 375F and give your self-time to control engine temp before you do damage. I have a JPI 711 with fuel flow, I love it.
Never set timing higher than 28 deg. never start hot with open throttle, it will not kick back when throttle is at idle.
If the engine quits running when you back off the throttle in the pattern, you probably have a carburation problem, not associated with Franklin engines.
Does it have an oil filter? If not, install one. Change your oil every 25 to 30 hours.
Wait for a deal on a complete engine and have it ready if you need it.
Do not over tighten the exhaust manifold tab bolts, if you do so they will break the tabs on both the manifold and the stacks; tighten them only till they touch.
Leaded Fuel and lead deposits, lead deposit problem occur in engines that run to cool, fish patrol aircraft are prone to lead fouling, 220 Franklins combustion chambers run hot enough in the that they don’t have these problems.
Run till full temp and then an additional hour, good advice for any aircraft engine to help eliminate moisture in the oil, but is it always practical?
Contact me and bring your airplane over to Kern Valley L05 and let me see it. I will show you mine if you show me yours.
Franklin engines are great, they make more power per pound or cubic inch than any other naturally aspirated engine out there.
Good luck and fly safe.

Great Franklin pirep, 172heavy, very comprehensive.
BTW whats with the "Franklyn" spelling I see occasionally?

Where'd your 108 come from, Straydog? Is that the red one that Tim Bohner used to have?

pay attention to your fuel pump it's seals can go out and by pass fuel to your oil. Small fix if caught on the ground before running your motor I now check oil levels after each flight to make sure I am not making oil. Takes a while to get it overhauled but possible and still reasonable. That said I am still impressed by the smoothness of the engine.

Thanks a bunch Evan, been a long road, one that's not done until she's home (today if things go as planned)

172Heavy, thank you for the knowledge, given your proximity to me I look forward to getting together having a show off

Hotrod, this is a yeller one which came from the northeast with a brief stay in Utah.

Firstmaule4, that's right in line with the kind of tips I'm looking for. Thank you.

Anybody else?
SD

Congrats, SD!

Thanks CamTom, I guess I kind of left you hanging asking about Finch. He was my DH just before heading off for school with you. Good Dude.

Seems my 220 maintenance experience is beginning, alternator quit causing my ferry pilot to park it 300 miles from home at nightfall. I suppose that's better than the 600 miles away that it was yesterday morning, and the 2300 miles away it was a month ago.

Belts/Wires/etc check good beneath the light of an L.E.D. moon. After several cycles it was noted that about 50% of the time when the Alt is switched on, it shows good charge for 30sec-2min and then quits abruptly. The other 50% it shows nothing. Speculation is that the voltage regulator may be kaput.

Since all the manuals I have are in the baggage compartment I haven't really been able to research much. Worst case, the alternator is shot, can anyone point me in a direction to start looking for one? Will this be peculiar to the engine or is it a "one size fits many" sort of thing?

Thanks guys & gals
SD

Good advice mentioned here already, and yes, 172heavy is a wonderful source when owning/operating these motors.

I don't have much to add, but will share a few thoughts off the top top of my head.

Franklin's can be tricky to start in cold temps, do your best to preheat. After start, warm the oil up to operating temps prior to taking off.

Franklin's like to run hard and don't burn hardly any more gas doing it. I would run 24"/2400 without worry. (Yes, always use 100LL.)

The 220 has an accessory plate at the front of the engine that is hard to see/access. This can be a source of possible leaks and is hard to spot due to the Stinson nose bowl. I ended up splitting my nose bowl so I could check this often (or you'll have to pull prop).

The 220 is very smooth and pulls hard at 2800 rpm's, climb performance is exceptional.

I always enjoyed the sound of a Frank 220, it's kind of like being at a drag strip.

The 220 likes to have its oil cap on for take off, if not, it'll make a quick mess.

Congrats on the new plane, you'll no doubt have many fun filled adventures it in!

MM

I'm with Matt on all that, I found the solution to the cold start problem, pull the carb heat, 1/4 in of throttle or so , full rich,,,DUH, three strokes of the primer and load the forth, but don't use it till the engine starts, then feed it in, this will keep the engine running long enough to build manifold vacuum and start delivering fuel on its own, so far this procedure has worked ever time.

Hotrod Tim Boughner still has the Red Stinson