Any suggestions for a decent 4k video camera to mount on the plane. It will likely live on the wing strut most of the time. I'm looking for something better than the Hero 7, if there are better choices available. As for cost well, lets see what might be out there before worrying about that.

I'm actually quite happy with my hero 7. I put it in a metal case that accepts a 52mm filter. I put a ND and UV filter on it to slow the shutter speed so that prop doesn't look so terrible, and it's not bad.

akschu wrote:I'm actually quite happy with my hero 7. I put it in a metal case that accepts a 52mm filter. I put a ND and UV filter on it to slow the shutter speed so that prop doesn't look so terrible, and it's not bad.

I

Nice, mind sharing the case manufacturer name or is homebuilt?

blackrock wrote:Nice, mind sharing the case manufacturer name or is homebuilt?

https://amzn.to/2W3A08G

and

https://amzn.to/2IFQLDY

The video is pretty stable, and the color is very good shot with protune. It can also grab at 60fps, but it burns card fast.

This video is me experimenting with Davinci Resolve and reducing a 60fps video to 24. I think it would have been better native at 24fps with the ND filter, but either way, it's not horrible given it's still rolling shutter:



Also, the iphone app bluetooth/wifi stuff seems more stable and more polished. I haven't been super impressed with GoPro stuff over the last few years, but this Black 7 is really pretty decent.

Video looks like crap even though I uploaded it at 4k. I suspect youtube is still processing it.

Also, I had to rotate and crop a little because my mount tilted at take-off. So it's not great, but gives an idea of what the hero 7 can do.

Thanks akschu, that looks like a good way to go. I've ordered the camera and case/filters so can't wait to strap it on and try it out!

akschu wrote:This video is me experimenting with Davinci Resolve and reducing a 60fps video to 24. I think it would have been better native at 24fps with the ND filter, but either way, it's not horrible given it's still rolling shutter:

It's certainly usable, but yeah, you will get more motion blur at 24 fps, which is what you want for that prop. Overall that image is pretty crisp.

One side effect of using ND filters to stop down GoPros is that you can go too far, to the point that the smallest vibrations blur everything. Not just the jello effect but the effective sharpness of the image.

Unless you are filming something that will be special to you for years to come .......just shoot in 1080p . That is if all you want to do is post to youtube.
You wont fill up your SD card as fast, your computer you are using to edit wont struggle with 4K files ect.

I have had 4K video cameras for a couple of years. I have done some work for production studios that required 4K but when I'm shooting for fun 4K is a waste. You wont get 4K playback . And while some may argue that shooting in 4K and downsizing post looks better I'm not sure its worth the hassle.

Now, not saying buy a camera that only shoots 1080 oh no....but shoot 4K when needed

sierrasplitter wrote:Unless you are filming something that will be special to you for years to come .......just shoot in 1080p . That is if all you want to do is post to youtube.
You wont fill up your SD card as fast, your computer you are using to edit wont struggle with 4K files ect.

I do sometimes shoot 4k when I want to be able to pan/zoom in post. With cameras attached variously to external surfaces you end up with static shots that cannot be changed except by landing and adjusting. With 4k you can make some adjustments.

But, yeah, that's the strongest argument I can make for 4k in my workflow. I'm otherwise editing/uploading 1080p.

Zzz wrote:It's certainly usable, but yeah, you will get more motion blur at 24 fps, which is what you want for that prop. Overall that image is pretty crisp.

One side effect of using ND filters to stop down GoPros is that you can go too far, to the point that the smallest vibrations blur everything. Not just the jello effect but the effective sharpness of the image.

I think the app will tell you what it picked for a shutter speed. Do you have a rule of thumb on what shutter speed you like based on the compromise between decent prop blur and image sharpness?

I know, get a global shutter and be done with it, but not easy to mount on the aeroplane.

Also worth noting that even though the Go Pros can do 4k, it's generally agreed that their 2.7K is actually the best for sharpness and image quality - so shooting 2.7K, which is less painful on the HDs, then editing/cropping in as needed to get those wings or prop out if you desire and upload in 1080p is usually my go-to. If you want to mount a bigger camera out there, the Nikon Z6 has been making me happy lately for a small camera, am working on a mount of my wing with that guy now, and the Sony RX cams have a better image than GoPros too - but with friends who help me get GoPros at 50% off, haven't felt motivated to go Sony yet.

If you're getting NDs, buy a full set - don't just buy one. Per ZZZ's wisdom, it's easy to over-ND a Go Pro. I'll often have to land and switch NDs after an hour or so of flying, otherwise my footage goes to mush as the sky conditions change.

I prefer the Sony Action Cams. FDR-X3000. Imagine quality is superior IMO as is the image stabilization. I also like how easy it is to turn on/off and start recording remotely from the phone app.

I have both the Hero 6 and the 7. Not a huge difference between the two, the stabilization is better in the 7, but only at 2.7K. 4K your on your own. There is a new camera on the event horizon for 4k, the new DJI action camera. Exactly the same size as the Hero 7, but also features a front LCD for those who like to watch themselves and some other stabilization features. I too got the metal case with the 52mm filter ring. I also make my own mounts as I find the GoPro mounts somewhat hinkey. I simply made new light guards of 1/8" angle instead of the .025 the stock ones are. I then have a variety of other pieces of angle for either forward facing and straight down. The GoPro app does not seem to want to talk to the camera all the time on the wingtip, neither does its remote. So I have a USB power pak that runs the camera and a huge 128gb card, so it can stay on and record for 2.5 hours.

https://www.dji.com/osmo-action

evanr42 wrote:Also worth noting that even though the Go Pros can do 4k, it's generally agreed that their 2.7K is actually the best for sharpness and image quality - so shooting 2.7K, which is less painful on the HDs, then editing/cropping in as needed to get those wings or prop out if you desire and upload in 1080p is usually my go-to. If you want to mount a bigger camera out there, the Nikon Z6 has been making me happy lately for a small camera, am working on a mount of my wing with that guy now, and the Sony RX cams have a better image than GoPros too - but with friends who help me get GoPros at 50% off, haven't felt motivated to go Sony yet.

If you're getting NDs, buy a full set - don't just buy one. Per ZZZ's wisdom, it's easy to over-ND a Go Pro. I'll often have to land and switch NDs after an hour or so of flying, otherwise my footage goes to mush as the sky conditions change.

That's interesting... I also have a Z6, as well as an RX100mV.

I wouldn't say the RX100 take better video than my hero7 black from a sharpness or color perspective, but it does have a much better lens.

I love my Z6, but mostly because I already had Nikon glass. The A7III takes amazing video, but I'm just not that fond of the Sony ergos/fit/finish.

These days, I'm finding that I'm absolutely the bottleneck with my video/photography. My gear is far more capable than I am.

schu

dogpilot wrote:I have both the Hero 6 and the 7. Not a huge difference between the two, the stabilization is better in the 7, but only at 2.7K. 4K your on your own. There is a new camera on the event horizon for 4k, the new DJI action camera. Exactly the same size as the Hero 7, but also features a front LCD for those who like to watch themselves and some other stabilization features. I too got the metal case with the 52mm filter ring. I also make my own mounts as I find the GoPro mounts somewhat hinkey. I simply made new light guards of 1/8" angle instead of the .025 the stock ones are. I then have a variety of other pieces of angle for either forward facing and straight down. The GoPro app does not seem to want to talk to the camera all the time on the wingtip, neither does its remote. So I have a USB power pak that runs the camera and a huge 128gb card, so it can stay on and record for 2.5 hours.

https://www.dji.com/osmo-action

I did a lot of research on the DJI Action Cam, not a huge fan. After several emails/calls to their tech support I finally got the answer from them that it cannot be remote turned on/off or start record, both from a remote or phone app. And no multi camera support. For aviation, that's a deal breaker for me. The batteries barely last an hour on these things and if you can't start/stop record and shut it off during periods of non-use, it's basically useless.

Since I already have the GoPros, I most likely will not change, nothing earth shattering about the DJI's offering, it is just the new kid on the block. As for the remotes for GoPros...useless, as is the app. More than half the time, they lose connection and never get it back. The WiFi is also a huge battery hog, reducing the already limited battery life. It is why I went to using an external battery that will last as long as my bladder. I just record the entire flight, then edit out what I do not want. The external battery was only $14, the right angle short USB cable was another $5. So their combined cost was less that the questionable remotes, which I wish I never bought.

dogpilot wrote:Since I already have the GoPros, I most likely will not change, nothing earth shattering about the DJI's offering, it is just the new kid on the block. As for the remotes for GoPros...useless, as is the app. More than half the time, they lose connection and never get it back. The WiFi is also a huge battery hog, reducing the already limited battery life. It is why I went to using an external battery that will last as long as my bladder. I just record the entire flight, then edit out what I do not want. The external battery was only $14, the right angle short USB cable was another $5. So their combined cost was less that the questionable remotes, which I wish I never bought.

That’s unfortunate, the Sony app it rock solid, and the camera has an option for long range WiFi you can enable, I only need it on the tail camera, the rest are fine with regular WiFi. I haven’t tried the Sony remotes but they have good reviews.