Couyrierguy,
There are several models of the EarthX battery, all very similar. Which one did you choose and why?

Ripping out the interior is a great way to save about 66lbs

robw56 wrote:

Ripping out the interior is a great way to save about 66lbs

Rob, I'd check for oil leaks if you're carrying around 3 cases of oil!, You're not flying a radial are you?

mtv wrote:Odyssey battery takes off 8 to 10 pounds, and cranks better.

Lots of lightweight accessories out there these days....starters, alternators, oil coolers.

We took an average of 40 pounds off our Super Cubs by this route....that's huge.

MTV

+1
Especially the battery.

Back in the heyday, when Super Cubs were the workhorse of backcountry aviation in NZ, they'd do away with all electrical. Saved about 50-60lbs (another whole deer in the cargo bay).

MontanaT-craft wrote:Couyrierguy,
There are several models of the EarthX battery, all very similar. Which one did you choose and why?

Model ETX36C Why that company :You run it like a regular battery, no special charger needed, put it in and forget about it. Auto low voltage disconnect, in case some dummy leaves the master switch on. As to why I got that exact model: partially based on cost and weight, if anything I probably could have gone even smaller? I think some guys are using the same model on their O-320, so the Rotax isn't much of a challenge for it. I have not bother as of yet to move it to the firewall and get rid of a few feet of heavy cable, it's under the rear seat so just 4 ' maybe of cable. It'd be a chore as other stuff is in the way. Building new again, I'd go with it mounted high up on the firewall, inside, (sucker is tiny) right behind the starter. Also, next built I plan to go with a mechanical master switch/battery disconnect, Summit Racing has them. It would be an inch away from the battery, also on the firewall, a short pushrod to the panel. This concept totally does away with the whole master switch left on scenario and combined with the battery and much shorter cables, would result in significant weight savings. Also a lighter, simpler battery mount/box can be used as it doesn't have to restrain a 15 lb battery, another weight savings

One I don't think's been mentioned yet: Passenger-side yoke and connecting tube. Done by many operators for safety reasons.
-DP

Iv'e found a very simple way to deal with the. leave the master on problem, especially as I become more clueless with age. On the engine side of the firewall I mounted a small piezo beeper that is connected to the master power bus. You can't hear it when the engine is running but it catches your attention after shut down. That put an end to dead batteries for me.

That's a good idea!

Sidewinder wrote:Iv'e found a very simple way to deal with the. leave the master on problem, especially as I become more clueless with age. On the engine side of the firewall I mounted a small piezo beeper that is connected to the master power bus. You can't hear it when the engine is running but it catches your attention after shut down. That put an end to dead batteries for me.

I found an even simpler way to prevent my leaving the master on: I bought an airplane with no electrical system.

Still have to remember the mags, though, so not quite "senior proof" yet.

MTV

I have a dumb question about IFR certified aircraft. If that equipment is on the MEL, can you legally remove it from a certificated plane? I know you could placard it inop and fly VFR it it doesn't work - but doesn't it still have to be there physcially?

soyAnarchisto wrote:I have a dumb question about IFR certified aircraft. If that equipment is on the MEL, can you legally remove it from a certificated plane? I know you could placard it inop and fly VFR it it doesn't work - but doesn't it still have to be there physcially?

What are you trying to do? What kind of bird? Just asking.

Well nothing yet. I would like to upgrade to a bigger 4-place plane - so I'm shopping for 180s and Maules. My question is if I were to buy an IFR certified plane, can you legally rip out all the IFR equipment and effectively save the weight by flying VFR? I was debating this with my brother over a beer - my thoughts were that its certainly possible. But to confirm I'd need to see the POH or AFM for the specific plan to see if the ifr radios are listed as required equipment. But if I need to be shopping for a vfr plane, I'd like to know that. My thoughts were to buy an ifr plane to get my ifr ticket in -then rip it all out to lighten the load and fly vfr.

I dunno - I said it was a dumb question.

For a certified plane, just look at the TCDS and it will tell you what you need to know regarding what equipment the plane needs.

Still have to have a new W&B done to get the total, but heres whats been done so far:

Skytech Starter
PlanePower Alternator
Odyssey SBS-J16 Battery
Removed Loran 604
Removed ADF

I'm guessing an easy 40 - 50 lbs gone.


1970 Cessna 172K 180hp C/S Prop

Sidewinder wrote:Iv'e found a very simple way to deal with the. leave the master on problem, especially as I become more clueless with age. On the engine side of the firewall I mounted a small piezo beeper that is connected to the master power bus. You can't hear it when the engine is running but it catches your attention after shut down. That put an end to dead batteries for me.

That's a great idea. I leave my strobe on at all times which really catches your attention if you leave the master on and get out.

robw56 wrote:

Ripping out the interior is a great way to save about 66lbs

Wow!! That's a lot of weight.

By skimping on bigger brakes and bigger tires ............................

When Brian at Steve's Aircraft installed the new skylight in the Pacer we felt it was a great time to update the W&B as we are replacing the current GIL battery with an Odyssey and have just received approval to move the batter aft as I have a very nose heavy Pacer.



My Pacer weighed in at #1240 with the back seat and old battery. My goal has always been to have a 1200lb empty weight.

I currently have taken out:
Backseat and rear seat belts (those suckers are heavy)
Right yoke (with my bench seat I am tired of pax having the controls in their laps)
Right brake/rudder pedal and master cylinders (I still have rudder controls, just no more toe brakes)
Overhead speaker (out when the skylight went in)

Next on the list:
MT Prop (this lightens my wallet as well - just waiting on someone to buy my nearly new Hartzell Scimitar - Piper Painter you need a Top Prop conversion?)
Sutton Exhaust (currently have a PA28 Arrow muffler/exhaust system)

Does going from a FIKI IFR Aztec to a no electric, no gyro, no flap PA-18-95 count?

Works out to about 2,300 lbs in empty weight.

Actually made the 170 a few ounces heavier.. Micro aero vg's:). But it feels like I lost 400 lbs in the front seats the way it flies. Absolutely love the way she leaves the ground and feels during slow flight. Will gladly wear leather sleeves while fueling:) for the added safety and stability.