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When does the duct tape come off

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When does the duct tape come off

The 182 that I bought that is still in RI has duct tape over the oil cooler. I have heard of that being done in very cold conditions. When the temps go up as winter fades, when does it come off. Probably do not want to fly it home that way.

Tim
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I'd say anytime the OAT at cruise altitude is above 40F.

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Re: When does the duct tape come off

qmdv wrote:The 182 that I bought that is still in RI has duct tape over the oil cooler. I have heard of that being done in very cold conditions. When the temps go up as winter fades, when does it come off. Probably do not want to fly it home that way.

Tim


What? Tim, a new plane. :shock: Not a tail dragger, not a Maule. :lol: What is you thinking? How about some details, what year, any options, maybe a picture or two.

I thought you bought out your partner in the 182B?

At any rate have fun on the return trip, sound like it will be a hoot. :P

C ya, Bub
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Robert "Bub" Wright, aka Skylane, passed away in November of 2011. He was a beloved community member and will be missed.

Hey skylane, you must have missed this post.


phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2055


Tim
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qmdv wrote:Hey skylane, you must have missed this post.


phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2055


Tim


Yep, missed the whole thing, lock, stock and smoking barrel. :oops: Looks like a good buy, I really like the "59" good plane. By chance if you come through BNO give me a call. Love that STEC auto pilot.

C ya, Bub
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Robert "Bub" Wright, aka Skylane, passed away in November of 2011. He was a beloved community member and will be missed.

We should see you some time this somer I am sure. Might be driving through to get to Nampa to pick up some tractor parts.

Tim
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Duct tape comes off when the oil temp gets too hot.

No need to thank me, send in the $50.... :lol:

MTV
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It should come off before it gets to hot, not after. You should also fill up before you run out of gas. You should abort take off before you hit the trees.

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Note that I said "when", not after 8) .

But, yep, you're getting the drift now. You can't state a number because every individual installation is a little different. Also, you can cover PART of the cooler, up to ALL the cooler, depending on temps.

So, every time you land for fuel, remove a bit, or just take it all off if you're worried about it. Won't damage anything to run slightly cooler temps.

This is one of the problems you run into when flying through changing air temps, and you just have to deal with it conservatively.

MTV
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And when you take the tape off use some alcohol or something to get the sticky stuff off the fins cause everything flying in the front end gets stuck to the sticky stuff. O:)
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I'm from the err on the side of caution school when it comes to temps. Restricter plates have always scared me, and I use duct tape sparingly on coolers.

I'd rather have oil and CHT's 50 degrees too cool than 50 too hot. If it's cold out, run MP and RPM's a bit higher, get to pattern altitudes further out from the airport to avoid low power descents, and hold power in the pattern and drag it in with a fist full of throttle. All designed to keep the engine warm and making heat.

Every time I do a civilian BFR with someone from Lower 48 I get into a pissing match about power-off descents to landing as a routine practice, rather than strictly an engine failure drill. I won't do 'em. If I thought my engine was going to "fail" the damn airplane would be in the shop, and I'd never fly anything but touch and goes.

Gump
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I just pull or push the t-handle control I mounted in my airplane as needed.

(see the pics in my gallery)

I still cant figure out how to imbed them in a post :?[/img]
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wagonwrench wrote:I just pull or push the t-handle control I mounted in my airplane as needed.


Yup, I saw that, and that's the smart way to go for managing oil temps.

Maybe something like the shutters on the Yaks would work for CHT's.

Gump
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Gump,

I've ascribed to your philosophy for years, till recently having discussions with engine reps from both Lyc and Continental. Both said that they've pretty much come to the conclusion that engine damage done from "shock cooling" is probably actually a result of using old cylinders, which are prone to failure anyway. They both independantly told me just don't be stupid when it comes to the potential for shock cooling, like an overhead break at 3000 agl, idle power, and land, at -20 F.

Nevertheless, I'll still be gentle with engines, thank you.

And, actually, I'd rather have the oil temp a LITTLE warm compared to a LITTLE cool.

All things in moderation.

MTV
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mtv wrote:Nevertheless, I'll still be gentle with engines, thank you.

And, actually, I'd rather have the oil temp a LITTLE warm compared to a LITTLE cool.

All things in moderation.

MTV


Roger That, Sir...

My theory was always the colder it gets, the slower I move. Up where I flew I had the luxury of staying low if I wanted, and no ATC slam dunking me. Made it easier to manage temps. I could run an engine from new in the crate to TBO time and time again without ever losing a jug.

On the other hand, I'd see new guys come up in the winter, and at 40 below be at 5,000 AGL three miles from OTZ (sea level). They'd yank the power and stick the nose down. Some would crack one cylinder a week. That kind of shit makes DM's and chief pilots a bit cranky.

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mtv wrote:And, actually, I'd rather have the oil temp a LITTLE warm compared to a LITTLE cool.


Oh, me too...

My concern with covers/tape is getting up in the air, hit an inversion layer, and have things way too warm. Like hot!!!!

That's what I'm talking about. Nothing like the smell of frying valve cover paint to get one's attention.

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Yep,

But, I haven't met a no shit inversion since I moved to the Lower 48.

MTV
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mtv wrote:Yep,

But, I haven't met a no shit inversion since I moved to the Lower 48. MTV


Inversions aren't a problem down here in the wilds of Nevada. But this '56 172TD I have with the gaping maw original cowling has a hard time making it to body temperature on a cool day, much less run hot. I need cowl flaps more than duct tape.

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Seems to me like a little hot is better than cold, .. keep the water boiled out,.. and like my boy tells me about the oil temp gauge, "It's green all the way up to the red".....
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Like most subjects, there seems to be a lot of debate about the temp needed to expel water from engine oil. I'm wondering if there's an easy test to determine how much water your engine oil is holding?
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