Hi everyone, planning on getting a Landes fork with my tax return and wondering if anyone uses the desser 850-6 4 PLY AERO CLASSIC SMOOTH TUNDRA TUBE TYPE? They say they are 5 pounds lighter.
I am parked at Merrill and run off the pavement, do you guys think these will last or should i just go with superhawks? I am putting 8.50 x 6 all the way around.

Any other tires any one would suggest?

Thanks

There's quite a few guys here running those tires now. They seem like a good option, lighter weight and no grooves that throw rocks at your prop and tail.

I put them on a 172 and they seem to be holding up nicely.


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I would NOT put the same size tire on the nose as on the mains. I'd use an 8.00x6 on the nose if you're using 8.50s on the mains.

Too easy to land all three same topime. There's a reason that Cessna used a smaller tire size on the nose, you should keep at least close to that relationship.

MTV

Tom wrote:I put them on a 172 and they seem to be holding up nicely.


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They fit the landes fork good? Do you use much pavement?


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My vote would be the 8.50 smoothies and an 8.00 up front, or 29" Bushwheels and a 8.50. I was sure I had seen an 8.00 smoothie advertised somewhere, but I can't find it. I would also strongly suggest a smaller nose tire than the mains. OEM 6.00/5.00 is about a 3" difference. 206 heavy is 8.00/6.00 is about a 2" difference. I would encourage you to try to maintain this size offset. Unless you like doing your wheelbarrow impression on landing, and dragging your tailcone on T/O. I, of course, have never done any of these things.
Don't forget to slide a 3" section of hose over your strut while you have it apart. It works as a bump stop, and will get you home if your strut seal fails.
If you can't find a smoothie, The Goodyear Flight Special II has the least amount, and narrowest grooves in the tread. It is less prone to picking up rocks and hucking them into the back of your prop, and/or your horizontal. It is also a superior quality tire.

wingnut185 wrote:.... I was sure I had seen an 8.00 smoothie advertised somewhere, but I can't find it....

I looked rather extensively recently for the 800 smoothie too, can't find it.
Maybe Desser discontinued it?
The guy I was looking for ended up buying a new used set of 800 Airtracs from another buddy instead.

Desser makes an "oversize" 8.00 x 6 that is reportedly 21 inch OD, but it does have grooves in it.

Has anyone tried using RTV to fill in the grooves so you don't pick up rocks?

EZFlap wrote:Desser makes an "oversize" 8.00 x 6 that is reportedly 21 inch OD, but it does have grooves in it.

Has anyone tried using RTV to fill in the grooves so you don't pick up rocks?

I'd be willing to bet that the RTV would be thrown out of the grooves by centrifugal force during the first take off.

Cary

No, I mean some glue that chemically bonds with rubber. I'm sure there is some rubberized adhesive that chemically bonds with rubber... the stuff they repair and patch tires with, "vulcanizing compound". RTV or Shoe Goo should stick to new, dry rubber pretty good. If not, I know there is some kind of compound that will, Heck they glue entire new treads on old tires.

Right now I sit with a pretty nose down attitude. It wears 8.5x6 on the mains and 6x6 with the heavy fork on the front. And I already have the hose on there. Not sure if putting 8.5's all the way around will be the wheelbarrow problem or not?



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I also have a straight tail 172, and when I put the full "service manual" amount of air pressure in the nose strut I have a pronounced nose high angle on the ground, which would make the "wheelbarrow" effect a little worse. However, this has not ever resulted in a wheelbarrow landing in my case. I am guessing that the reason for this is that I learned pretty quickly to add a small amount of power just before touchdown, which puts a little more propwash on the tail, allowing me to push the tail down a little further than otherwise possible. This works really well and is now my normal landing procedure. I'm sure that a lot of other pilots figured this trick out long before I did. It works.

I have also heard unverified and unsupported ramp rumor that adding the VG's under the horizontal tail gives the tail a little bit more power at l ow speeds, and I have heard unsupported rumors that this makes a small but noticeable difference in the old 172's where the horizontal tail is a little smaller than the later 172's. All completely unsubstantiated of course

But the adding power trick worked well even before I heard those rumors about the VG's, and the rumor is that the VG's just make it a little better, but the power will solve the problem by itself.

8.50 smooth mains and 8.00 nose.


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Here is a link to relevant thread where 172 tire size on the airglas fork was discussed:

https://backcountrypilot.org/community/ ... ange-19656

Also, here is the link to the original knowledge base article I wrote for the nose fork/tire mod:

https://www.backcountrypilot.org/knowle ... wheel-fork

Thanks for the links. I've read your article more times than I can remember.


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I am thinking i might go with the 26 inch either AK bush wheels on the mains or 26 good years? Does anyone know if there is an STC for the good years or is it field approval only? How about wear, I operate out of Merrill and pavement matters which is why i am thinking the Good years over the AK bush wheels?

Thoughts?

Got it done!


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Looks good!

I would add a tail spring back aft, at the tiedown ring site. A single leaf spring from a Cub works....find an old one, and bolt it on. That'll keep the tail off the ground. Not so much of an issue with a 172, but.....

You're going to have to work to land on the mains with the nose still in the air.

During EVERY pre flight, perform a complete "wipe out" of the controls....ie: Throw the yoke all the way to the left, then all the way forward, then rotate the yoke all the way to full right aileron, then full back yoke, while holding full right aileron, then go to full left aileron while holding full aft elevator, then move the yoke full forward while holding full left aileron.

The reason you need to do this is to detect damage to the firewall, from landing on the nose gear. I've found a 172 with that "feature".

And, of course, wiping out the controls is a good practice in any case. But, if you hammer that nose gear, you may well be replacing the firewall.....a big job.

MTV