flyingjack wrote:Anybody running Desser smoothies; 850 MLG & buffed 800 NLG? Less FOD thrown at tail and another inch+ of prop clearance. Currently out of stock until end of year- maybe.

Where can you get the buffed nose tire? I'd sure be interested. I do have a customer running smooth 8.50s on the mains.

Desser: 21x8.00-6 4 Ply Aero Classic ***Tundra Buffed Smooth Tread $169.95 PN 21/800-6 4 PLYB
Sent them an email asking about "tread" thickness vs their std tundra tires and haven't heard back yet.
Jack

I have a question for those of you who have installed an Airglas nose fork. The first line of the instructions says to remove the lower nose strut. Is that actually necessary? It looks like the install can be done with the lower strut in place. Your experience is appreciated.
I’ve had the box of parts sitting on the table for about two months and it’s time to get it done!
Thanks.
Chris

Oh no, don’t take it off, but please post a long video later so we can all have a good laugh Sorry, couldn’t help myself.

Piper or Cessna? Model year?

Your best friend is going to be a hydrolic press or a friend with a hydraulic press.

Depending on year and model you’ll need to cut the strut. I use a thin kerf cutoff wheel in a 90 deg die grinder some go to a machine shop to get it done.

Bullet suitable for install new fork block and a rivet gun.

Map torch too.

Trusted friend cause it takes about five hands to do it all without trauma.

Heat new block, chill strut, press block on and use bullet with rivet gun to align. Don’t fuck around you got about 10 seconds or so until block and strut become one.

I recommend you buy a used strut and fit it all up, then swap out, bolt on fork AFTER strut is mounted and serviced and leak checked etc.


Rocket

Oh ya, you’ll need to press the old block/torq fitting too. Fun times!

Thanks for that info! Super helpful. I hadn’t thought of the used strut option, that way I could swap back if I got the need for speed.
The project is a 1964 182G. I’ve finished with all the firewall reinforcements, new motor, interior, windows and paint. The nose fork is just about the last of it.
The help is appreciated.
Chris

Mostly sure your model doesn’t need to be cut the earlier ones with the separate fork and torque link fitting have to be cut, many don’t do it but not a good idea for a couple reasons.

I feel the longer uncut strut’s added leverage if you will is asking for trouble when it gets ugly, ditto for the overinflated strut, also the fully extended torque links are weak in that position, bla bla bla…

Go 8:50 or go home, 15psi or so… Find a polished one in the back of someone’s hanger, air taxi etc.


Rocket

rocket wrote:Oh no, don’t take it off, but please post a long video later so we can all have a good laugh Sorry, couldn’t help myself.

Piper or Cessna? Model year?

Your best friend is going to be a hydrolic press or a friend with a hydraulic press.

Depending on year and model you’ll need to cut the strut. I use a thin kerf cutoff wheel in a 90 deg die grinder some go to a machine shop to get it done.

Bullet suitable for install new fork block and a rivet gun.

Map torch too.

Trusted friend cause it takes about five hands to do it all without trauma.

Heat new block, chill strut, press block on and use bullet with rivet gun to align. Don’t fuck around you got about 10 seconds or so until block and strut become one.

I recommend you buy a used strut and fit it all up, then swap out, bolt on fork AFTER strut is mounted and serviced and leak checked etc.


Rocket

Oh ya, you’ll need to press the old block/torq fitting too. Fun times!

This. And yes, you need a press like an Harbor Freight bearing press. The issue is the mounting block a thick block at the base and thin up top where it slides over tube. It slides easily the first inch. I was not able to get it through the thick lower section by hand as it did not expand enough from heat. Use bearing press after heating up the block. It goes well. You will need to make a drift pin out of an old bolt to get the holes lined up.

flyingzebra wrote:....The project is a 1964 182G. I’ve finished with all the firewall reinforcements, new motor, interior, windows and paint. The nose fork is just about the last of it....

I'm looking forward to seeing it, Chris.
I'm betting it'll look as good as your 180 did.....

Currently in the middle of installing an Airglas on my 182G. My strut tube has two holes and the bottom part must be removed. The instructions say approximately 1” needs cut off but my measuring tape says this will be more like 2 1/2” cut off to get the new Airglas block up to the top hole without a bunch of strut sticking out of the bottom. Have any of you encountered this and how did you proceed?
Thanks!
Chris

Got that one figured out. After conferring with Airglas, some of the older nose struts do end up losing about 2-1-2”. It’s all about the relationship to the top hole for the block.
I do have another question for you who have been flying the big tires. Do you ever swap them out for 600’s for longer trips?I'm debating whether to keep the old set or jettison them.
Thanks.
Chris

Swapping to 6:00s for long trips: 56 182- I'm lazy and on a 500 mile trip the difference is probably only 20-30 minutes. I'd rather spend that time in the air than wrenching. YMMV

I’ve got 8” mains and 6” on the nose. My average cruise on cool days is around 150 mph over the ground.