I'm thinking about replacing the 1968 fiberglass insulation in my 182.
Being in Alaska, insulation is primary, sound deadening secondary.

Anybody have experience with these:

Super Soundproofing Foam

Vantage Hush Kit

Soundex

What else should I consider?

Selkirk “Rubber Insulate”, bulk or precut:

https://selkirk-aviation.com/contact/

If your goal is to make the cabin warmer in the winter, you’ll be well served by taping over the leading edge cabin air intakes, putting insulation in the wing roots, and improving the door to fuselage seal. Also, some Cessna doors are bonded to their frame and the bond can fail. When this happens the door is filled with air which forces its way in through the holes in the door card. So check to confirm that your doors are well sealed, especially along the bottom. If you don’t have back seat passengers you can rig your engine blanket as a curtain behind your seat. And if you have a floor mounted cabin heat discharge you can cover that to force more cabin heat onto your feet.

Great idea to use the engine tent to keep heat up front. Thanks for that.

For Skywagons, there is a common, but unapproved practice around here. If you have cowl mounted taxi/landing lights, you remove one, and replace it with a screen and a duct. Disconnect the heater intake hose from the baffling under the oil cooler, and connect it to the duct. Plug the hole in the baffle. You’ll get better ram air pressure and more heat. Should work for a Skylane, Skyhawks, and any other aircraft that has cowl mounted lights.

With the wing tip lighting available these days, you can make up for that lost cowl lamp. Someone should do an STC for this, and produce a nice fiberglass duct.

Any Alaskans that could stop in at the Landes factory and tip them off? Aircraft owners who fly skis would probably find and buy this mod if they had it available, and the fibreglass part is easy for them.

Pinecone wrote:...For Skywagons, there is a common, but unapproved practice around here. If you have cowl mounted taxi/landing lights, you remove one, and replace it with a screen and a duct. Disconnect the heater intake hose from the baffling under the oil cooler, and connect it to the duct. Plug the hole in the baffle. You’ll get better ram air pressure and more heat. …...

You would get more air, that's for sure,
but you'd also get less temperature increase (aka delta t) through the heat muff.
I notice that the cabin heat in my C180 actually increases in the traffic pattern,
in spite of less exhaust heat being available--
less airflow through the heat muffs is why.

For your consideration: https://skandiainc.com/product/quilted-insulation-blanket/

48-inches wide, includes burn-test certificate, weighs 2.2 pounds per yard.

Perhaps coupled with their Guardian Batting https://skandiainc.com/products/upholstery-supplies/

I found good info in https://backcountrypilot.org/forum/to-headliner-or-not-to-headliner-23467

I would second the quilted fiberglass mentioned before. The air gapping of fiberglass is your best insulation. Too bad they don't make aerogel insulation for aircraft, 1000° on one side, cool to the touch on the other, weighs virtually nothing. The one big failing of my patrol door was in the winter. The cold outside would literally suck the heat out of your leg next to the plexiglass. I would normally tuck my jacket next to my leg to keep it from the cold. Fiberglass insulation it kind of a pain, but its R factor and weight is hard to beat. Quilting it would tend to keep the stuff out of your face when you open a panel.