The right bladder came out without the wing gymnastics, just some good tugging - an extra set of hands definitely helps. The left one was being a good deal more stubborn, which in the end turned out to be the outboard vent not disconnected rather than a snap. Still, that was the only way I could really reach all the way into there to find out, plus I was running low on ideas at the time. Not sure what your fuel capacity is, mine are 32.5gal each. I don't have short arms and it was still an interesting exercise. We'll see how the prep and re-snapping goes. I like your idea for the long bolts as guides as well. The plates don't seem like they will be too horrible to align, but I've been lulled into that idealistic mindset on this project before.

For some of the further away snaps, a block of wood that you can use to leverage your hands against definitely helps. I found taping the hardest. I have fairly long arms, but getting the tape in the right spots without being able to see is damn near impossible. I have a little stick that I stick 2 ends of the tape to. Using a mirror and a pile of patience, I got things where they needed to go. I quickly got a very high respect of dentists...
Looking good!

Forgot to say that these really help with lining up the gaskets for the fuel gauge.

Old mount off, new mount ... not on yet. We underestimated the time it would take to relocate the cabin heat inlet, and overestimated the amount of guidance that the SPW STC paperwork actually gives you. "Rotate the mount" really means drill out all the rivets, cut metal, and so on. It's marked for the dangerous parts, but it got to be end of day and we got tired. On the plus side the mount actually lines up with the holes, so once we get this heat inlet business sorted it should just bolt on.

The CGR30 order is in but lead time is apparently long on these. I want to pull all old engine instrumentation, but may leave it in long enough to at least run up the engine and set the governor. I don't think it'll fly before the CGR30's installed, but given the work still to do that was probably inevitable anyway.

Here's a picture of the original early-style "light" engine mount next to the new SPW. The new mount is obviously heavier, I don't know quite how much but will weigh them both. With one in each hand it didn't feel too significant though. There is a big difference in structural rigidity and it's pretty obvious to me why people like these now. The Cessna mount feels like a toy compared to this thing.



We also got the O470 oil pan cleaned out in prep for install on the 520 (part of the STC conversion). Here's a sampling of the metal I pulled out of the pan, and this was not all of it. There was also a chunk of derelict RTV sealant wedged in the oil pickup mesh. I made the right call tearing this thing down. The guts of the 520 look great however!

I got a little carried away today.

Surprisingly clean back there. We're going to attempt a center stack config and some other cool mods, we'll see how this goes. Larry at Saircorp is only partially optimistic with the equipment I want to use, but I spent the afternoon playing tape-measure Tetris and I think we can get it to work.

That sure will be nice. Can’t wait to see what you do with the instrument panel.

More little steps on the road to completion, but we're getting things put back on finally. The cabin inlet duct proved to be a decent effort to do properly. As you can see in these pictures we ended up moving it 2 inches to the right and enlarging the inlet hole in the firewall. After moving the duct over, we used their supplied metal piece (with modification) to cover the exposed old part of the cutout.

The engine mount clears this duct but it's close. I held the mount up briefly just to test the fit as you can see here. We bolt the new mount on for real on Monday!

I also spent the weekend doing arts and crafts making foam-core mockups of the panel, avionics stack, and cutouts of everything going in. The radio stack will clear the T-column with under an inch to spare, but it will clear. It does require putting the audio panel on the bottom. In the picture these depths include room for cabling, the actual trays aren't this large.

As a bonus I also mocked up the G5 flush mount bracket, and it'll similarly clear with just enough room to work. These were the biggest hurdles on the panel, so now we can get to the business of fabrication. The transponder will need to remain down low but that's fine, I don't touch it much in flight. The important things will be right where they need to be.

CGR30 screens have been finalized, and I am hoping to see them around end of the month or early May. By then we should have the engine in place so I can work on the probe wiring. Cies senders are still MIA, but it looks like the CGR will allow me to use the Cies digital output for better accuracy. (Note, I still don't trust them fully)

Ensure your elevator stops are adjusted correctly before committing to that configuration. Doesn't the audio panel tray have the plugs and wiring coming in from the rear? Would be a nasty mess if the column was pulled back hard and ailerons turned.

I am currently modifying my 182B to a sorta center stack configuration. i am keeping the trays all on top of the column, albeit close, within 1/2". When i was pulling trays I found the chain from the T-Column was actually rubbing on one of the trays from the years of sagging.

https://backcountrypilot.org/images/ori ... 00165b.jpg

Mark Y. wrote:Ensure your elevator stops are adjusted correctly before committing to that configuration. Doesn't the audio panel tray have the plugs and wiring coming in from the rear? Would be a nasty mess if the column was pulled back hard and ailerons turned.

I am currently modifying my 182B to a sorta center stack configuration. i am keeping the trays all on top of the column, albeit close, within 1/2". When i was pulling trays I found the chain from the T-Column was actually rubbing on one of the trays from the years of sagging.

https://backcountrypilot.org/images/ori ... 00165b.jpg

Will double check the stops. That paper box is accounting for cabling room, the actual tray is shorter. I will also gain about a half inch more vertical clearance when I change radios later, but for now I think it's OK. All wiring will be dressed to the sides as well. It will definitely be close but should clear. Also worth noting that PSE wants some sort of rear support on there anyway, so my intention is to build one that accommodates and supports all 3 trays to prevent any sagging. Good advice!

For rear support, use an aluminum strap on both sides. You could angle them forward as you go up so you catch all th trays further back. Try to catch an existing screw in the glareshield. Or windscreen mounting screws work good to.

Exciting to see how this comes out, especially the panel.

I am always interested to see the panel ideas too in these old birds, Changing to a u-Column is just not really reasonable.


What is the black firewall sealant you used? I have something the same on my firewall and i need some more. No luck on any searches as to what the part number actually is. I have a split skin on my cabin roof i need to seal from an old repair that wasn't completed properly. Was told to just use RTV, that it won't corrode in my lifetime, but would like to actually find the correct stuff.

Mark Y. wrote:

What is the black firewall sealant you used? I have something the same on my firewall and i need some more. No luck on any searches as to what the part number actually is. I have a split skin on my cabin roof i need to seal from an old repair that wasn't completed properly. Was told to just use RTV, that it won't corrode in my lifetime, but would like to actually find the correct stuff.

Flamemaster CS 1900 firewall sealant. Or PPG PS 700 if you wana spend even more. They both meet the spec MIL-S-38249.

Allot of people just use high temp RTV witch does a fine enough job keeping fumes out and would probably last long enough with a fire but the above stuff is the real deal.

The new SPW mount is on! Jim came by yesterday to say hi and I immediately put him to work crawling in the cockpit to thread on nuts. He'll learn not to do that sooner or later.

Unfortunately I forgot some washers so we had to take it off and re-do it today, but my A&P and I took care of it since Jim was smart enough to stay home this time. It's fully installed now and torqued, ready to accept LORD mounts and an engine. This mount has significantly more structure than the Cessna mount as I mentioned before, and is braced far better when mounted. It also uses hard mounts to the firewall instead of loosely-torqued rubber bushings.

There is very little tolerance for out-of-true condition on any of this, and they even give solid bushings you can drill yourself if things have shifted over time. Fortunately everything aligned straight and the holes were perfect on the first try. I am really looking forward to getting the 520 hung on this mount soon!

colopilot wrote:The new SPW mount is on! Jim came by yesterday to say hi and I immediately put him to work crawling in the cockpit to thread on nuts. He'll learn not to do that sooner or later.

Unfortunately I forgot some washers so we had to take it off and re-do it today, but my A&P and I took care of it since Jim was smart enough to stay home this time. It's fully installed now and torqued, ready to accept LORD mounts and an engine. This mount has significantly more structure than the Cessna mount as I mentioned before, and is braced far better when mounted. It also uses hard mounts to the firewall instead of loosely-torqued rubber bushings.

There is very little tolerance for out-of-true condition on any of this, and they even give solid bushings you can drill yourself if things have shifted over time. Fortunately everything aligned straight and the holes were perfect on the first try. I am really looking forward to getting the 520 hung on this mount soon!

]

Ha ha... Jim: Hey dude whats up.... Ralph: Here take these and get your ass under the panel...

jaudette wrote:

colopilot wrote:The new SPW mount is on! Jim came by yesterday to say hi and I immediately put him to work crawling in the cockpit to thread on nuts. He'll learn not to do that sooner or later. [emoji38]

Unfortunately I forgot some washers so we had to take it off and re-do it today, but my A&P and I took care of it since Jim was smart enough to stay home this time. It's fully installed now and torqued, ready to accept LORD mounts and an engine. This mount has significantly more structure than the Cessna mount as I mentioned before, and is braced far better when mounted. It also uses hard mounts to the firewall instead of loosely-torqued rubber bushings.

There is very little tolerance for out-of-true condition on any of this, and they even give solid bushings you can drill yourself if things have shifted over time. Fortunately everything aligned straight and the holes were perfect on the first try. I am really looking forward to getting the 520 hung on this mount soon!

]

Ha ha... Jim: Hey dude whats up.... Ralph: Here take these and get your ass under the panel...

Can't believe you forgot the washers Jim! Haha.

Haha! Right!

That mount is cool!

Ya they are a great mount. Acorn is about 4 hrs drive from me and they do great work. You sure pay for it though...

A1Skinner wrote:Ya they are a great mount. Acorn is about 4 hrs drive from me and they do great work. You sure pay for it though...

I was going to pay for a mount either way, either to refurb my old Cessna version (great for an O-470) or for something stout that would handle the power I'm about to throw at it. The old mount would have probably worked, but if I'm spending it either way I'd rather get new.

colopilot wrote:The new SPW mount is on! ...It also uses hard mounts to the firewall instead of loosely-torqued rubber bushings....

Did the aluminum "seaplane bushings" come with the SPW engine mount, or as a separate kit?
I have a bootleg set of seaplane bushings,
but was hesitant to install them a year or two ago when I had the mount off due to a cracked tube--
not sure they were correct, also no paperwork.

I plan on installing a set down the road a few years when I have to overhaul my engine.
I guess SPW or somebody sells them, STC'd or SK'd or otherwise approved.