gbflyer wrote:Mobile 1 Racing 4T from Walmart. It's around $6 a quart. Don't put it in your Lycoming or Continental though.
Damn I need to check Walmart! I was paying 10.99 a quart at Advance Auto Parts.
gbflyer wrote:Mobile 1 Racing 4T from Walmart. It's around $6 a quart. Don't put it in your Lycoming or Continental though.
mtv wrote:Cary wrote:FWIW, when my engine guy built my Lycoming O-360 engine 11 years ago, his recommendation then was Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100 in the summer. My IA agrees. I asked about multi-weight and other brands. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100.
More recently, I asked each of them again. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100. I also asked my IA about Camguard--didn't think to ask my engine guy. Again, both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, and my IA said I wouldn't get any benefit from Camguard if I changed the oil as needed, flew frequently, etc.
So guess what? I run Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, no Camguard. The engine has roughly 700 hours on it since it was built, burns very little oil, had excellent compressions at the annual in February, runs great, averages 9.8 gph, with the back 2 cylinders running hotter than the front 2. I average just under 65 hours per year, a bit more in the summer due to the OSH and other trips, a bit less in the winter. In cold weather, I preheat. I have no idea how its innards are other than its symptoms are of a good engine doing what it's supposed to do. With new plugs at this last annual, it starts easier, but I don't notice any other changes.
Cary
Oh, they're out there. I once knew a VERY experienced IA who said running AD oil like Aeroshell W-100 in a P & W R 985 would just plain ruin that engine. Engine went to TBO and was clean as a whistle, and got there without the least bit of trouble.
Don't use multi viscosity oils?? Really?? Then you must not ever fly in cold weather......cause there'll come a time when you stop somewhere in cold weather for fuel or weather, and wait a little bit too long.....and now that VERY expensive engine of yours has pretty thick goo in the pan, which may or may not provide much lubrication for the first five minutes of run time after that cold start. Now, I'm not suggesting that you start a totally cold soaked engine, I'm just talking about the case where it got a little colder than you'd like. How much wear occurs then?
Don't use CamGuard? Really? Both major engine manufacturers now authorize its use in their engines. As in, it's approved. Unlike Marvel Mystery Oil, or any of a dozen other flavors of snake oil. Virtually every knowledgeable lubricant expert these days is saying that Cam Guard does what the manufacturer claims it does. Have you read any of Mike Busch's discussions on the subject?
And, yes, if you run that engine faithfully and almost daily, you don't need Cam Guard. But if that engine sits without running for a couple weeks at a time occasionally, Cam Guard might just save your bacon. Cam Guard was developed by a lubricants engineer who worked for Exxon at the time, by the way, not some backyard "expert".
But, your local wrenches are the REAL experts on lubricants, apparently.![]()
For the record, I use Exxon Elite multi viscosity oil and Cam Guard.
Finally, a very old aviation saying, that is still true today: Oil is the cheapest thing you'll put into your engine.
MTV
Cary wrote:mtv wrote:Cary wrote:FWIW, when my engine guy built my Lycoming O-360 engine 11 years ago, his recommendation then was Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100 in the summer. My IA agrees. I asked about multi-weight and other brands. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100.
More recently, I asked each of them again. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100. I also asked my IA about Camguard--didn't think to ask my engine guy. Again, both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, and my IA said I wouldn't get any benefit from Camguard if I changed the oil as needed, flew frequently, etc.
So guess what? I run Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, no Camguard. The engine has roughly 700 hours on it since it was built, burns very little oil, had excellent compressions at the annual in February, runs great, averages 9.8 gph, with the back 2 cylinders running hotter than the front 2. I average just under 65 hours per year, a bit more in the summer due to the OSH and other trips, a bit less in the winter. In cold weather, I preheat. I have no idea how its innards are other than its symptoms are of a good engine doing what it's supposed to do. With new plugs at this last annual, it starts easier, but I don't notice any other changes.
Cary
Oh, they're out there. I once knew a VERY experienced IA who said running AD oil like Aeroshell W-100 in a P & W R 985 would just plain ruin that engine. Engine went to TBO and was clean as a whistle, and got there without the least bit of trouble.
Don't use multi viscosity oils?? Really?? Then you must not ever fly in cold weather......cause there'll come a time when you stop somewhere in cold weather for fuel or weather, and wait a little bit too long.....and now that VERY expensive engine of yours has pretty thick goo in the pan, which may or may not provide much lubrication for the first five minutes of run time after that cold start. Now, I'm not suggesting that you start a totally cold soaked engine, I'm just talking about the case where it got a little colder than you'd like. How much wear occurs then?
Don't use CamGuard? Really? Both major engine manufacturers now authorize its use in their engines. As in, it's approved. Unlike Marvel Mystery Oil, or any of a dozen other flavors of snake oil. Virtually every knowledgeable lubricant expert these days is saying that Cam Guard does what the manufacturer claims it does. Have you read any of Mike Busch's discussions on the subject?
And, yes, if you run that engine faithfully and almost daily, you don't need Cam Guard. But if that engine sits without running for a couple weeks at a time occasionally, Cam Guard might just save your bacon. Cam Guard was developed by a lubricants engineer who worked for Exxon at the time, by the way, not some backyard "expert".
But, your local wrenches are the REAL experts on lubricants, apparently.![]()
For the record, I use Exxon Elite multi viscosity oil and Cam Guard.
Finally, a very old aviation saying, that is still true today: Oil is the cheapest thing you'll put into your engine.
MTV
Well, I do fly in pretty cold weather, but I'm prepared to plug in the airplane and cover the cowl when I do. I've learned to trust the advice of both of my "wrenches", as they've not misled me on other things. That doesn't mean that they're right, of course, but maybe they are. Heck, I don't know! I have looked for any Lycoming service bulletins or service letters which would shed light on this, but I haven't found them. So I've sent an email to Lycoming, and I'll post whatever they tell me.
Cary
mtv wrote:Cary,
My bad. CamGuard has been tested to the FAA requirements for use in aircraft engines. Therefore, it is an approved additive. Take a look at the Cam Guard web site....lots of good information there. And, it's not just an anti corrosion additive, by the way, though that's one of its roles.
MTV
Hey Gary. I just had this discussion with 2 of the engine shops I work with and here's what they told me.shortfielder wrote:Bringin up an old thread here. A buddy of mine and I have talked a couple times about this in the past and again today. I used Aeroshell for many years with no issues. One of my mechanics talked me into Phillips XC last year, and the cheaper price was nice, but I know can be costly in the long run. I hate to change from something I have never had issue with, but also hate to argue with the more knowledgable.
Part of our discussion revolves around the idea that Phillips says on the label that it can be used for break in. Wouldn't that mean that it doesn't have the lubricity of the Aeroshell? On my Pponks, Steve would not warrantee the engine unless you ran Aeroshell in it, and I always considered him pretty knowledgable too.
OK, lets hear it. Thanks G
shortfielder wrote:I guess in the end, it may not make much difference which aviation oil ya use, most importantly change when it starts to color, or sooner, or after a period of time if you don't fly that much, but what I was really curious about was the idea that one could be used for break in, which in our minds would mean that it didn't have the lubricity of the other oil, and if that were the case, why would anyone prefer it. Obviously, it seems in the end, either is fine, I was just curious. Always wanting the best for my baby.

Scolopax wrote:Last year, Phillips introduced this “victory” oil that includes the additives for use in Lycomings.
https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/phi ... eight-oil/
We are running it in our Husky. We have about 400 hours on it with no trouble, though that is not very conclusive.
Anyone have any more info on this stuff?
Might start running in in the 180 as well.
I've heard this before, and seen it in lycoming literature, but I'm curious what their reasoning is. Is it strictly to get moisture out of the engine? The oil doesn't go bad just sitting in there. Can you shed some light on this?G44 wrote:Most important thing is changing oil at specified tach time intervals AND calendar intervals. Lycoming states xx tach time or every 4 months, whichever comes first. Don't forget about the calendar time interval, you would be amazed how many “superbly maintained” airplanes are out there that only get once a year at annual time oil changes because they haven't flown the the 25 or 50 hours of tach time. CHANGE YOUR OIL!
Kurt
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