How snag-proof is the Selkirk foam? Does it withstand ski poles and antlers and corners of cardboard boxes? Does it age well or dry out and get stiff, or shrink in the cold?
Thanks,
-DP

Not very snag proof unfortunately. A sharp corner will catch and tear a little chunk out. Not down to the sheet metal though. Because its black in color, however, you don't really notice it much. I actually experimented with painting some of the pieces to lighten up the interior and it worked surprisingly well, but I ended up deciding not to paint them and glad I did, because you'd see every little scrape after that. Use 1/2" on the lower panels aft of the door jamb...they fit better and probably the panels that will get the most abuse.

Hasn't seemed to deteriorate or fade at all yet, though It's been hangared or out of the sun most of the time.

You mention shrinkage...I've actually experienced the opposite. The little triangle piece forward of the door jamb would bubble when flying up high (8-10K feet) My theory being that its closed cell foam and all the trapped air is expanding. Although I think that problem can mostly be mitigated by using the correct glue. I used the light duty spray glue on that part and on some others in the early stages when I still don't know what I was doing

The good thing about this stuff, though, is that you can just replace single panels if they get too scraped up. I haven't actually done that yet, thankfully. I should add, that mine has been installed for a little more than one year.

That is the down side, you have to be careful snagging it with certain items. I put a small tear in mine after a glancing blow with the corner of an AK bushwheel fuel bag.

DP,

Sent you a PM.

Kurt

G44 wrote:DP,

Sent you a PM.

Kurt

I got that- much appreciated, and good to hear from you again. Been meaning to respond- just real busy. Thanks

bart wrote:Use 1/2" on the lower panels aft of the door jamb...they fit better and probably the panels that will get the most abuse.

I hadn't heard that tip before. Sounds smart, and maybe help insulate a little better as well?

You mention shrinkage...I've actually experienced the opposite. The little triangle piece forward of the door jamb would bubble when flying up high (8-10K feet) My theory being that its closed cell foam and all the trapped air is expanding.

Yeah, that'll happen with climbing boot liners here on Denali, if folks size them correctly at sea level. Makes for unhappy toes.

The good thing about this stuff, though, is that you can just replace single panels if they get too scraped up.

Makes sense.

I too used 1/2" on all the lower panels/firewall and 1/4" everywhere else. The 1/2" fits in very nicely, almost like it was meant to be.

I have to say the I am impressed with how well the 1/2" holds up. It is very durable compared to the 1/4" (also heavier too). I may have a few snags, but the 1/2" hides it very well as I haven't noticed any. I rest my left boot/leg on the front side panel and there's nothing more but a minor wear mark.

What kind of glue is everyone using that will hold well but yet allow replacement without much trouble?

I'd be interested in hearing how LONG anyone has had this stuff installed, in years and flight hours.

I know I'm pretty hard on interiors......or maybe it's just the stuff I carry around.

MTV

mtv wrote:I know I'm pretty hard on interiors......or maybe it's just the stuff I carry around.

MTV

I thought you were just "hard" on other peoples opinions Mike. : )

I found the 1/2 to be too thick personally and only used it on the firewall. The 1/4 inch is perfect IMO, but that's just a subjective opinion. My feeling is its a great solution in a personal aircraft. If I were working the plane or put a lot of folks in the back all the time, I think it not the best option as it will rip/tear pretty easy. Its more of a "gentleman's" airplane solution if you know what I mean.

The stuff to use is the yellow 3M. I forget the number, but I (and others) have posted it on other threads. Seems like the best thing to do is brush it on the backs of the foam, and then spray it on the airplane. Let both tack up, and then fit the piece.

Stay away from the Aircraft Spruce stuff as it is pretty junky compared to what Selkirk sells. You will get what you pay for. Just an FYI... Whatever you do DONT buy the pre-cut pieces from Joanie. They are sweet as can be, but their quality control is the worst ever. It took probably 3 or 4 times of sending stuff back before I lost it and just had her send me a full roll and cut my own.

just found the stuff:

Say you were to do Selkirk foam at window level and above. Any suggestions for a more durable material for window level and below? What about Aero Dot on the lower sides? Or Aero Dot bonded to 1/4" Selkirk foam?

bigrenna wrote:just found the stuff:

Thanks Greg!

bigrenna wrote:

mtv wrote:I know I'm pretty hard on interiors......or maybe it's just the stuff I carry around.

MTV

I thought you were just "hard" on other peoples opinions Mike. : )

Well, as has been said before, Opinions are like assholes.....we all have one, and the only one that doesn't stink is mine....

But, opinions based on actual experience.....those are the best. You can research a topic on the internet till you're blue in the face, you can talk to the manufacturer, who will rarely badmouth his or her product, but it's the guy who is USING the stuff who can offer the best guidance. Usually.

And, you are putting a LOT of hours on that machine, so your opinions are based on experience and time tested. Those are the opinions I value most.

Thanks for the update on this stuff.

MTV

OK so its been almost 3 years since anyone replied to this. I know some of you guys have been running the selkirk foam during that time. Can we get an answer of how its holding up for any of you who have had it all this time? Bigrenna, Rob, anyone?

Just saw this topic. I put half inch in my 170 about 4 months ago. Just up to the windows, roof was fine. I have coin dot flooring cut wider. It runs up the sides about 8 inches. This protects the foam from most damage. I have hauled a lot of crap and no tears yet. GLUE: the last owner must have thought glue was a structural component as it was put on so thick. I just used a bit from a spray can where needed and wedged foam in place, holds well.

For round one of my Selkirk foam I used the 3M product recommended by them. it looked beautiful until July in central Oregon and then it got saggy in several places. For round two I rolled on Super Seam Seal fabric cement and it worked much better. I also covered all of my foam with Airtex wool, also with rolled on glue. It looks pretty clean and finished. The hard part was getting the wool cut and fitted with just enough extra material to wrap under the foam without pushing up the edges. My best luck was to glue the fabric to the foam first and to then fit and trim the two layers into the airplane after the glued on wool was all set up. It was basically a huge PITA and turned out good enough but not perfect. There are a few photos of it on the pilot page of our website, http://www.singingdogfarm.com. i would definitely do it exactly the same way again, very utility and way more modern looking.
Chris

flyingzebra wrote:For round one of my Selkirk foam I used the 3M product recommended by them. it looked beautiful until July in central Oregon and then it got saggy in several places. For round two I rolled on Super Seam Seal fabric cement and it worked much better. I also covered all of my foam with Airtex wool, also with rolled on glue. It looks pretty clean and finished. The hard part was getting the wool cut and fitted with just enough extra material to wrap under the foam without pushing up the edges. My best luck was to glue the fabric to the foam first and to then fit and trim the two layers into the airplane after the glued on wool was all set up. It was basically a huge PITA and turned out good enough but not perfect. There are a few photos of it on the pilot page of our website, http://www.singingdogfarm.com. i would definitely do it exactly the same way again, very utility and way more modern looking.
Chris

Great idea! Looks good, as well.

MTV

The 3M is about the most tenacious stuff you can find. If done right, the next guy in 30 years will be cursing your name when he/she tries to remove it...

You need to first prep the substrate. If it is not perfectly clean, than the adhesion will suffer. This means not just clean, but scuffed w/ red scotch bright. I first paint copious amounts on the back of the foam. The first pass tends to absorb into the foam, so a second is needed. Let it tack, then paint again. Then paint the airplane side (not missing any spots.)

You are supposed to wait till everything tacks up before applying, but I let the foam side dry, and then apply with the A/C side wet. I have found that if you quickly place the foam on the wet (aircraft side) than you have a few moments to shift the foam around until it sets. You can also stretch the foam a tiny bit to make up for any mis-measured cuts. Make sure you use a roller on the foam to settle any air and get a firm bond. If you do find any bubbles, lice them with a small needle to get the air out.

In lieu of starting another thread on this subject, I figured I would piggyback this one. When you guys get to the cutting/fitting phase of the foam, how is everyone templating the foam panels, if at all? What material are you using as a template? I was thinking of using something like posterboard. Its cheap, bendable and easy to cut with scissors.

If there's a better way to do this, please share.