This is not an answer to the poster's original question. This is a slop in the yoke answer. The left yoke gets slop, not from all the wear and tear you put on it from control movement, but rather it gets its slop from the controls beating agains the gust lock, typically installed on the pilot's yoke's shaft. The U joint gets play in it. A really cheap solution is this: Your co-pilot's side does not get virtually any wear and is most likely as tight as the day it was made. Swap them left and right. Violá, firm tight controls, for no money at all!

Our 1955 C180 has a lot of slop with the yoke rotating relative to the control tube. It's bolted on with two AN3 bolts which measure 0.20" on my crappy caliper (spec says 0.189) whereas the holes measure 0.21" giving 0.010" of play. It is very annoying. There are supposed to be rivets, 0413216 and -4, but I can't find the diameters of those rivets. Does anyone know if they are fatter than an AN3 and will eliminate the slop?

Thanks!

I was trying to give an answer to the original posters question. I replaced my plastic yokes with the aluminum ones, which I had powder coated black as viewed in the pictures I posted. In order to do this, you have to drill out the original steel rivets. If you just simply bolt the replacements on, as in the situation which he described, and use stock AN3 bolts, those bolts diameters are too small for the original hole. This will create even more slop, with the eventual relative movement which at some point is bound to occur. It was described as "very annoying" I thought I found a solution that addressed this and wanted to share it with others and perhaps save some trouble in the future, such as what the original poster noted.

Richard

richpiney wrote:

Our 1955 C180 has a lot of slop with the yoke rotating relative to the control tube. It's bolted on with two AN3 bolts which measure 0.20" on my crappy caliper (spec says 0.189) whereas the holes measure 0.21" giving 0.010" of play. It is very annoying. There are supposed to be rivets, 0413216 and -4, but I can't find the diameters of those rivets. Does anyone know if they are fatter than an AN3 and will eliminate the slop?

Thanks!

I was trying to give an answer to the original posters question. I replaced my plastic yokes with the aluminum ones, which I had powder coated black as viewed in the pictures I posted. In order to do this, you have to drill out the original steel rivets. If you just simply bolt the replacements on, as in the situation which he described, and use stock AN3 bolts, those bolts diameters are too small for the original hole. This will create even more slop, with the eventual relative movement which at some point is bound to occur. It was described as "very annoying" I thought I found a solution that addressed this and wanted to share it with others and perhaps save some trouble in the future, such as what the original poster noted.

Richard

Thanks Richard. This was very helpful. I will keep a couple of those fasteners in stock so I can fix them!

Hey Richard, I think you miss read dogpilots post, I did the first time. He’s not saying your post wasn’t helpful, it certainly was! He is saying HIS post is not a direct answer to the original post but is anther option to fix a loose yoke.

richpiney wrote:

The original solid steel rivets, (the upset end is hollowed) are .215. A number 3 drill bit at .213 fits in with slight clearance. If I were me, I would install an HL220-6-X Hi-Lock Pin. (I have not determined the length yet, (perfect fit no slop) and an MS 21042L3 nut.

Far stronger than the bolt, easily removable, and actually fits the hole as opposed to a bolt.
richpiney online

Here is what I was talking about. Zero slop as opposed to an AN Bolt. Tap in with a rubber mallet.
I ended up using an AN21045-3 nut.


[img]https://backcountrypilot.org/images/originalphotos/2430/5840/7fd20df943227e14522237bc.jpg[/img


Just an idea...

Did the -19 length hi-lok work for both holes? The manual specifies an 0413216 and 0413216-4 rivet. Not sure what the length is for either of those.

Yes, on mine I was able to use the same length.

Nothing to do with control columns. Although everybodys posts are a help to my knowledge, which is what this is all about.

The rivets Cessna used and discribed above, how would I order them?

My flap lever handle has two, and is out at the moment. I would dearly love to de-rivet and paint and replace with new.

Also my pilot seat is in an inconceivable amount of parts. The height adjustment winders have these same style rivets.

Thanks.
Texmex.

Tex wrote:The rivets Cessna used and discribed above, how would I order them?

Some people...I will not share names..have simply used a lookalike steel rivet from the tractor shop. I heard that it looked great and I did not know it was meant for a tractor. Of course you have to be able to buck it without making a mess.

What about removing the pax side yoke all together?

I assume that would be a major alteration and need to submit a 337 to the FSDO. It'd be convenient to be able to remove and reinstall on occasion.

BazzLow wrote: What about removing the pax side yoke all together? I assume that would be a major alteration and need to submit a 337 to the FSDO. It'd be convenient to be able to remove and reinstall on occasion.

My old C150/150TD was a tight fit for pax, even smallish ones.
I removed not only the RH yoke but the RH pedals, which made it roomier for pax.
Also made it quite a bit safer, as the right-seater couldn't get tangled up in the controls.
Although most 150's probably came with tdual controls from the factory,
they were actually optional and not required equipment.
Logbook entry & revised W&B were all that were required when removing them.

In a roomier airplane, where they're not so much in the way,
it actually makes sense to leave them be.
Even if youre not gonna be doing instructional flights,
they're convenient for the right seater to keep the airplane right side up
and on course while the pilot is busy with something else.

I am powder coating some yokes for a 170 project and want to order some Hi-Lock pins.
I have determined the quoted number HL220-6-19 is perfect but can not find where to order them.
Would anyone on here have info on where to order them from.
Thanks in advance, Aurele

BazzLow wrote:What about removing the pax side yoke all together?

I assume that would be a major alteration and need to submit a 337 to the FSDO. It'd be convenient to be able to remove and reinstall on occasion.

My '59 172 POH has depictions of optional no right yoke and a cover plate that covers the RH pedals. Also in the parts manual.