Thanks for all the info guys! I'm getting close to just pullin the trigger on the airglas. My wife says go for it!

Jeredp wrote: My wife says go for it!

Well that's all that really matters!

You might want to check out the Cesnna heavy duty nose fork. There are two styles, one is a cast type and the other is the plate type just like the airglass. The plate type can run up to a 700x6 tire, that is what I have on my 172. Check with the wreckers

You guys need to put a little more air in those nose struts. In fact, I'd cut a piece of heavy duty hose and slit it lengthwise, about 3 inches long. Slip it over the strut, and hose clamp it in place. THat acts as a soft stop to prevent the strut from bottoming out.

If you love your propeller (and the first time you buy one you will), you'll get those struts pumped up. Gives a LOT more prop clearance. I guess it doesn't matter much if you're always on pavement.....but this IS supposed to be a Backcountry flying forum, after all.

We had a couple planes with the Landes forks, and 8.50's all the way around. I hated them. We put 8.50 x 10s with adapters on one, and left the 8.50 x 6.00 tire on the nose...that was fine. The other airplane, we left the 8.50's on the mains and put an 8.00 x 6.00 on the nose. Just enough to allow you to land the thing without putting the nose down at same time as mains.

In my opinion, putting all same size tires on all three is a bad idea. The Twin Comanche proved this as well.

MTV

Mtv, I have read alot about what people say regarding the tail low and it does concern me. My hope is that with the early straight tail, my main gear is taller and hopefully wont be a problem. We'll see!

Thanks Rob for fixing the link.

Here's one of Kelly's straight tail with 8.50's all around:


I have to say I'm pretty happy with the fork and new tires, myself. I'm sure you will be too.

Adding the wheels did cost me about 5mph of speed.

Getting the nosewheel off can be a PITA. Your mechanic may curse you the first time you need to get it back off again. I have a small rounded hardwood board that we pound on the sleeve with to get it out. It works pretty well.

Craig

Thanks Craig, I'm my own mechanic so Im already cussing myself!

I think most of the tail too close to the ground chatter is from the misinformed. Any idiot can bang her hard enough to damage something expensive at the emmpanage if they are not paying attention. Rocket knocks on wood.

After removing the strut, fork, and/or fork block you will be cutting about 4 inches off the bottom of the strut per the Airglass STC instructions. I flew one that had not been cut and I never scraped the tail…but I sure tried! I had one come unclipped inside until the torque links were both vertical. Previous mechanic, same one who neglected to cut strut, had installed the steel retainer sleeve with the chamfer down instead of up so the lock ring was able to come unhooked while on a goose hunting adventure at the west-side beach.

I have almost 200 hours (1,400 in a pa22 ) in a 59 182 running an 8:50 with the Airglass fork on the nose and 8:50x10 on 10x10 Bushwheels for the mains and have held the yoke all the way to the stop, pulled full flap at 40 mph indicated (start of white arc) and haven't hit the tail. Maybe I am not doing it right? I am sure she would tell me, but she gets off where I expect her to every time. If I have a gross load with say something like full fuel and welding bottles in place of the rear seat I just go easy as there is no reason to horse her off. I am still learning her finer points though.

Rocket

ps. Big wheel avatar was a joke that made a gray moment in my life worth living. I hope to have a decal maker in town make up two big stickers to slap on the side of my big Bigwheel!


Edit-
Here is a photo before cutting off the strut:

I did it! I ordered the complete package w/goodyear 8.50s from Hitchcock today! I noticed some people have not cut the strut, why are people doing this? Ive seen a handfull of picture where people did not cut the strut, Airglas even has a photo tutorial about it on their website.

Jeredp wrote:I did it! I ordered the complete package w/goodyear 8.50s from Hitchcock today! I noticed some people have not cut the strut, why are people doing this? Ive seen a handfull of picture where people did not cut the strut, Airglas even has a photo tutorial about it on their website.

If I remember right some models don't require the strut to be cut. Mine wasn't.. True, I believe it does add some to the tail low but I've done okay with it and I have a bit of extra prop clearance.


Rocket:

Hitchcock Aviation called today and all my parts are being shipped! I will have a pirep and some installation pictures soon! Happy 30th to me! Woohoo!

I received my new 6.00x6 nosewheel today! I changed the subject on this thread because I plan to add pictures and some commentary of the installation. More to follow soon! Also, what pressure are you 172 guys running the 8.50s at?

GroundLooper wrote:
Adding the wheels did cost me about 5mph of speed.

All the better for my sake!

In my experience, 8:50s are pretty happy at around 20 to 24 psi on Tri gear Cessnas.

You can run them lower, but if you do, you'll need to monitor pressure frequently. Probably should anyway, but in my experience, life intervenes

At that pressure, temp changes and minor leaks really don't matter much, and also, plane is easier to push around.

I would not suggest running lower than about 12 psi. And, frankly, I wouldn't run anywhere near that low, myself. These aren't tundra tires. They'll do great in some tough stuff, but you don't want to spin a tire and shear a stem out in the boonies.

MTV

On my 1975 172 I run the 8.50's on the mains and the 6.00 on the nose. I have the Cessna heavy duty nose fork and I run the hose on the oleo. I refill the oleo oil when the system is setting on the hose and put in 45 psi. pressure. This gives me a very nice working system. I start out with the tires at 25 psi but after about three months the plane gets hard to push and when I check the tire pressure it is usually 15psi. I thinks this has something to do with the high quality Chinese tubes. This combination has worked good for me on rocks up to the size of goose eggs, any thing bigger than that needs a rethink. I had my prop repitched from 76x53 down to 76x51 and that made a wonderful difference. There are some pictures in my gallery.
KenW

Good info guys, thank you!
The nose fork showed up today. My first impression was holy shit this thing is heavy! My second impression is excellent craftsmanship. Just waiting on the tires now!

Jeredp wrote:Good info guys, thank you!
The nose fork showed up today. My first impression was holy shit this thing is heavy! My second impression is excellent craftsmanship. Just waiting on the tires now!

If I am correct, you need to thank Piper for their craftsmanship. I am pretty sure it is the same fork as a tri-paper. Airglass makes the other parts. Fork looks like the one Patrol Guy sent me five years ago that he thought was off a 206.

Tim

I was just going to say that looks just like the fork on my Tri-Pacer, only much cleaner and shinier.

It is a piper product replica but if im not mistaken, it is produced by airglas. The part number is pa32-260la. It must come from a saratoga.

Jeredp wrote:It is a piper product replica but if im not mistaken, it is produced by airglas. The part number is pa32-260la. It must come from a saratoga.

The Airglas fork was modeled after the Cherokee 6/ Saratoga fork. It is, however, manufactured by Airglas. It's a sturdy, excellent piece of equipment. I think you'll love it.

MTV