8" 10" Baby Bushwheel and 14"

Good man for posting that.

This kind of stuff is gold for people making upgrade decisions, or creating a new set-up.

Great contribution! Thanks.

Thank you sir, great visualization. Now I'm feeling extra insecure about my 8".

I'm not sure if it's the angle, but the 10" looks a little wider as well versus the 8"?

10" and 8.50's

14" and 26" Goodyears

good looking plane, that's one of my favorite year color schemes.

How did you like the 10"?

Good photo, thank you for posting.

A weight comparison would be similarly helpful given the long Arm.

How frequently do you use the tailwheel lock with the 14-inch tailwheel?

Fly safely!

I have 180k 14 in tail wheel with lock added 7 lbs but with 520 3 blade smitar prop. Fire wall battery empty wt 1805 8.50 tires helped c of g

Great comparison. That is quite a difference.

EDW

[quote="fiftynineSC"]good looking plane, that's one of my favorite year color schemes.

How did you like the 10"?[/quote]

The 10" is my favorite all around tailwheel for the Skywagon. Taller with a bit more flotation. Not a very expensive upgrade if you reuse your wheel and buy just the fork and a tire. Never had a shimmy with the 10". I did not notice any additional steering effort over the 8".

[quote="iPat"]Good photo, thank you for posting.

A weight comparison would be similarly helpful given the long Arm.

How frequently do you use the tailwheel lock with the 14-inch tailwheel?

Fly safely![/quote]

I use the tailwheel lock on every pavement landing with the 14". ANY xwind or quick correction will cause the 14" to shimmy on pavement. The 14" must be set down straight or it will shimmy on pavement. Yes, i have the AKBW extra arch tail spring. I really like the 14", but I can't recommend it without a lock. Once I figured out how to properly set the bering preload, the 14" requires just a bit more steering effort than a 8" or 10" on pavement. In the soft and rough stuff it takes much less power and effort to move the tail around.

Thanks for posting this!

wingnut185 wrote:

fiftynineSC wrote:good looking plane, that's one of my favorite year color schemes.

How did you like the 10"?

The 10" is my favorite all around tailwheel for the Skywagon. Taller with a bit more flotation. Not a very expensive upgrade if you reuse your wheel and buy just the fork and a tire. Never had a shimmy with the 10". I did not notice any additional steering effort over the 8".

Thank you sir, great info. I'm probably headed that way, new fork and tire and will retain my lock.

59SC

wingnut185 wrote: I use the tailwheel lock on every pavement landing with the 14". ANY xwind or quick correction will cause the 14" to shimmy on pavement. The 14" must be set down straight or it will shimmy on pavement. Yes, i have the AKBW extra arch tail spring. I really like the 14", but I can't recommend it without a lock. Once I figured out how to properly set the bering preload, the 14" requires just a bit more steering effort than a 8" or 10" on pavement. In the soft and rough stuff it takes much less power and effort to move the tail around.

Very useful information, thank you. A 14-inch tailwheel came as an uninstalled spare with my plane, and I have acquired most of the tailwheel-locking system parts; my quest for the remainder will continue.

In your experience, does the Baby Bushwheel similiary require a tailwheel lock?

Fly safely.

I can't comment on Wingnut185's experience, but I fly an early C180 50:50 pavement/grass and with good pressure and 5-6 lbs friction on the tailwheel, no problems with shimmy with the 11" Baby Bushwheel.

From the Skywagon Club Manual:

TAIL-WHEEL FRICTION CHECK: The manual states that this should be done at each
100 hr. inspection- - Place a suitable padded stand under the aft fuselage bulkhead and
jack the tailwheel off the ground- - Disconnect steering cables off the steering arm. On
the locking tailwheel be sure the locking system is disengaged--Using a spring scale
hooked into the steering- cable-attaching hole, measure friction required to pivot the
tailwheel fork. Force required should be 5 to 6 lbs. (approx. 23 to 28 inches lbs. of
torque). This applies to 8" as well as 10" tailwheels-- Adjustment of friction is provided
by the castellated nut No. 33, on the "Typical Tail Gear" figure, which fastens the fork
and steering mechanism together-- Be sure to install a new cotter pin after adjusting the
nut- - Reconnect steering cables and you're finished.