Battson wrote:I also run a higher weight sign viscosity oil, just because that's what my IA advised (
onefifty if you're watching...). W100 I think, whatever's in his unmarked 44 gallon drum.
Our IO-540 gets run at least once a week, or perhaps once a fortnight every other month.
The colder winter temperatures have certainly changed the pressure at start-up, takes a lot longer for the oil to come up to pressure (~10s to get out of the red now). I too have been wondering about multi-viscosity....
This CamGuard sounds like a good thing, but I wonder if it's necessary given we fly so often.
Battson,
If you are indeed running straight W100 (which designates 50 weight oil) and you are starting on frosty mornings as depicted in your recent photos, I'd strongly recommend switching to either straight W 80 (40 wt) or go to a multi grade oil of some flavor.
If your afternoon temps are relatively warm, I'd definitely switch to multi viscosity oil. ANY straight weight oil in this cold morning/warm afternoon regime is going to be lacking in one regime or the other.
And, I call BS on Busch if he really did suggest Aeroshell 15W50 is bad oil. I've run that stuff literally thousands of hours, in a variety of climates, with NO problems.
I've heard some folks complain that it's so "runny" that their engines puke lots of oil with it......and, maybe that last overhaul wasn't quite up to snuff? I ran the stuff winter, summer, spring and fall in northern Alaska, and never saw any down side to it.
I use Exxon Elite in my own engines simply because I get free shipping, and I like the corrosion protection package it provides. I also usually run Cam Guard as well. That said, in my current engine I'm running Phillips XC, ONLY because the engine obviously didn't break in properly before I bought it....grrr. If the engine breaks in, I'll switch to Exxon Elite.
Just to stir the pot, consider this:
ONE of the desired characteristics of a "break in" oil is to help the engine wear in. That involves ensuring the cylinders and piston rings seat well, which is accomplished by wear. Other parts of a newly overhauled engine also need to wear in. This is the reason the "standard" break in oil has traditionally been uncompounded pure mineral oil. Why? Because it doesn't contain additives that help to isolate wear by products and hold them in suspension, rather than being deposited in the engine. The compounded oils remove these wear products and hold them in suspension till the oil is changed. In effect, this break in oil doesn't do as good a job of lubricating an engine.
You really don't want an oil with great lubricating properties in an engine that's being broken in.....a vital part of the break in process is encouraging (some healthy) wear to internal parts.
Now, consider that Phillips XC 20W50 oil is approved for engine break in......
There's a reason proponents of the Phillips oil also strongly recommend use of Cam Guard: that oil lacks the corrosion protection agents present in Aero She'll or Exxon oils. I still use Cam Guard because it provides additional corrosion protection in addition to that provided by Aero Shell or Exxon Elite.
Draw your own conclusions.
MTV