Thanks guys….appreciate the input in spite of my imprecise/ inaccurate terminology.

I’m still working on mine. Trying to devise my plumbing for the pump to the filters to the reel inflow. Picked up a neat retractable bonding wire from Zoro.

Looks pretty nice!

That is a very nice set-up you have put together Zane. Only suggestion I have is an accurate meter. I use an analog Fill-Rite meter that can be calibrated, perhaps there is a newer model out as mine is over 25 years old and has had tens of thousands of gallons pumped through it (with Fill-Rite pump as well). Pump and meter have never failed, and the meter is still very accurate (calibrated yearly). As I do not always fill the aircraft tanks, I feel the meter is essential to keep my fuel quantity accurate in the aircraft. By knowing the exact quantity put into the tanks, then updating that into the fuel flow, the fuel flow is able to provide precise fuel remaining. Even if not fuel flow equipped and doing the math with time, it is still of utmost importance to know how much is going into the aircraft tanks. When filling the tanks, I check my fuel flow numbers against the meter numbers. This maintains my confidence in the fuel flow as a precise tool and tells me if either requires a calibration.

TR

Troy, i agonized over how to meter. The classic mechanical display types by Flo-Rite seemed strangely expensive to me. I ended up with an inline digital meter that will be threaded onto the nozzle end of the hose before the “gun”. Kind of a cheap solution but the upside is that i don’t have to see all the way to the pump, as the meter is at my hand, basically.

Another concern is the balance of this little trailer. We all know the rule of thumb for 60% of the load forward of the axle while managing tongue weight…well tongue weight won’t be an issue here but 95 gallons evenly distributed longitudinally + weight of the reel and pump and battery should work out. The reel and hose is a significant weight positioned aft, but the pump is a chunker too, and it's well forward of the axle, which is where i will also place the battery. Anyway, i just want to avoid a whipper with such a short-tongued little trailer.

As it is, this cheap Northern Tool trailer is only rated for 45 mph, but I think it’s a tire limitation. Plan is to only use it for my neighborhood for floatplane logistics and geopolitical hoarding.

Zane,

I used one of those small inline flow meters for many years and thousands of gallons of gas, and it was spot on when I verified accuracy. I agree that it's nice to have the meter right at the nozzle.

If you haven’t tested those filters with water-contaminated fuel I suggest doing so. I’m guessing you’ll be unpleasantly surprised. A long story worthy of another post but I spent quite a bit of time this winter testing various filter/pump combinations in preparation for an Arctic trip. YMMV, but I’d certainly test before trusting. One issue is pumps like that Filrite or the GPI that I’m using will often emulsify any water/fuel mix at it passes through the pump gears. Not just any filter can deal with that.

Belloypilot wrote:If you haven’t tested those filters with water-contaminated fuel I suggest doing so. I’m guessing you’ll be unpleasantly surprised. A long story worthy of another post but I spent quite a bit of time this winter testing various filter/pump combinations in preparation for an Arctic trip. YMMV, but I’d certainly test before trusting. One issue is pumps like that Filrite or the GPI that I’m using will often emulsify any water/fuel mix at it passes through the pump gears. Not just any filter can deal with that.

One is designed for particulate and one is designed for water, going to run them in series. I guess i will find out…

I use the same filters, but my tank is stationary. Also use the digital type gallon meter. Just a quick mention. I once had one of the 'water' filters seperate as I was pumping. The filter itself came dislodged from the top housing, inside the plastic see through container. I quit pumping as soon as I saw it, luckily had a spare in my cabinet.

My testing started with Goldenrod 596-5 ‘water absorbing’ spin on filters, also rated for 10 micron particulate. Testing was done with fuel contaminated with 5-10% water that was pumped through the filter 3 consecutive times, so 3 tries to absorb the water. It passed about 90% of the water. Digging into the performance spec of that filter finds that it’s not rated for an emulsified fuel/water mix. The pump, an 8 GPM GPI brand unit, is a fairly high RPM gear pump, so lots of agitation as the product passes through the pump. If the water contamination isn’t emulsified going into the pump it probably is coming out. A Mr Funnel brand water screening funnel performed much better for water removal than the Goldenrod filter.

I then tried a TOPS 3010H spin on filter. Same test. It’s supposed to be a ‘water blocking’ filter, and 10 micron particulate rating. It performed better than the Goldenrod and resulted in a noticeable reduction in flow but not really a ‘no-go’ function. It removed more than half the water. Perhaps slightly better performance than a water blocking funnel, but certainly not perfect.

I then tried a Facet FG-0-210-2 cartridge filter in a SS housing, advertised to be a no-go water blocking filter with a 1 micron particulate rating. Both the filter and housing were purchased from an aviation fuel system supplier. Long story short, I got that to work as advertised - eventually. The filter provided positive water blocking and no-go functionality, but only after a couple modifications to prevent cartridge misalignment and poor seating in the housing that resulted in unfiltered fuel bypassing the filter.

Not nearly as straight-forward as I’d initially assumed, but glad I did the testing.

Off topic but fuel related. I learnt recently that 40 gallon drums should not be stored vertically, especially where it rains. Water can enter the drum through a leaking cap or vent.

A rebuilt Goose was lost because of this a few years ago in BC. It rains here.

daedaluscan wrote:Off topic but fuel related. I learnt recently that 40 gallon drums should not be stored vertically, especially where it rains. Water can enter the drum through a leaking cap or vent.

A rebuilt Goose was lost because of this a few years ago in BC. It rains here.

True even in drier climates. Daily temperature fluctuations will cause a drum to ‘breathe’ as minor amounts of vapour escapes the bung seals when warm, and then ambient air is drawn in when it cools. Once the humidity in the ambient air condenses it’s trapped at the bottom of the barrel and can only accumulate over time. Laying the drum on its side and positioning the bung and vent so they are NOT near the top where they may not be always immersed in fuel is the only way to prevent that from happening. That’s primarily why I was doing all that filter testing this winter - we’ll be fueling from drums frequently this trip, and there’s no way of knowing those drums were always stored properly.

Belloypilot wrote:My testing started with ...
...
Not nearly as straight-forward as I’d initially assumed, but glad I did the testing.

That's concerning but valuable info, thanks Mike.

As for my inline flow meter, this is the best Amazon Chinese item I could find. Need to get some swivel fittings.

A "No-Go" water filter is essential. That said, as noted above, those MAY all pass some water before they shut down. I used No Go filters on a truck mounted tank, on a stationary 1000 gallon tank, and on what seemed like a million 55 gallon drums over the years, and was quite fortunate. That said, I also GENERALLY used a funnel with a chamois for fueling from drums, just to be certain. Those too will pass some water, IF water is the first thing to hit the chamois.

Keeping water OUT of fuel to start is by far the best plan. Everything else is extra insurance.

The Facet cartridge filter sealed off nearly instantly when hit with water. Quite impressive, once I solved the problem of fuel bypassing the filter. One wants to pay attention to the differential pressure rating on the filter and ensure the pump doesn’t have the ability to exceed it. Having water-soaked filter media disintegrate and find its way into your fuel tank would ruin your whole day. I think it was rated for 50 psi. My GPI pump is only capable of 15, so a reasonable safety margin. Still, the first warning is the sound the pump makes when it starts laboring. That’s a good time to quit.

We run Velcon (Parker Hannafin) equivalents of these Facets. Although the bulk of our fuel is JetA, the concerns are the same, and everything Belloypilot observed in his testing is exactly what we have observed.
Run enough fuel through those filters, and soon enough you will realize the difference in fuel flow through your system when the filter needs to be replaced.
Dating them is good, and guages even better, but it's just like when you glance at a panel and see a needle out of place, before you even verify values, you know something is a miss.
We are not on the coast, and even in a mostly arid climate, but have many fuel vessels ranging from 500 gal fuel tenders, to 5000 gal tankers, and when the wx conditions swing, the amount of water they can produce is surprising.

Take care,
Rob

I have several fuel pumps, and

A note on the Teal Chinese Flow Meters
- they are very cheap
- They accurate - actually more accurate out of the box than fill rite, and I've found them easier to calibrate too
- They do not do well at all with rain/water they aren't waterproof


If I were to do it again I'd buy those Chinese ones but Seal them up really good with silicon glue or something to prevent water from going in, I've gone through 4-5 of them.