I have done some pretty extensive research and comparasins between the various conversion STC’s out there for 175’s (focusing mostly on the older “large mouth” 1958-1959 cowl designs) and have noticed the different output centerline positions seem to vary even within the same STC on the same airframe. Ultimately what I have found is the Del-Air STC seems to typically end up with the crankshaft centerline the highest, and supplied a “scoop” to mod the top cowl with so the aft part of the spinner blended nicely into the top cowl. Many Avcon conversions seem to have the higher position as well, although some are as much as 2” lower than others......
Instructions for the Avcon conversion specifically say to not trim the tow cowl to expose the ring gear but many of them do just this, it could be covered back up with an owner produced fairing I suppose but most I see are left open. Some Avcon conversions have enough clearance on the top cowl to keep the ring gear covered without trimming.
There is a shop in the Minneapolis area that has the Avcon jig and will “repair” a mount if you can provide a piece or part of an existing mount and supposedly charges a little under $2K.
I just completed my conversion using Bob Williams STC and did the whole thing including a CGR-30P engine monitor and overhauling the O-360 (bought it run out) for right about $20K. Using Bobs STC is by far the most cost effective way to go, he only charges $1250 for the paperwork or at least that’s what he charged me in 4Q 2018. Someone on another forum mentioned he is asking $1750 now. Other than that the mount is the only real golden nugget, airboxes can be had or “repaired” easily enough. It took me around 3 years of scrounging deals and searching for parts from the time I decided to do the conversion until it was done, with the work itself taking maybe 2 weeks over the course of a couple months. If I were to do it again I could probably assemble parts necessary in a few weeks. Many of the parts can be fabricated or substituted by more modern, approved alternates like the fuel pump (if using), voltage regulator, instruments, control cables. In fact if you already have of these conversions there are none of those parts available so suitable replacements must be had anyway. You need to be the type that is willing to interpret the drawings in order to complete this conversion, some things are just plain wrong, like the location of the exhaust hole in the bottom cowl. If you do as the drawing says it will be about 1.5” off, so some setup/thinking is involved getting it just right.