Lotsa crap for the prop. If you have to fix any dings don't forget the balance.

d

For those really big ones that you know won't work, but you have to get home with? Those auto body cheese grater type body files take lots off real fast. that works for a start!!
Always remember to cut off as much off the other end as you did on the nicked bent one!!
GT

If you have an experimental aircraft, and if you have a wood prop (I think I covered all the bases here) . . . then baking soda and super glue make an interesting material for repairing prop dings. Fill ding with baking soda, pack in and smooth as needed. Apply super glue and chemical reaction (magic) occurs. After smoke clears, repair material is instantly hard. Not saying this takes the place of epoxy etc, but it IS instant!

bumper wrote:Ibaking soda and super glue make an interesting material for repairing prop dings. Fill ding with baking soda, pack in and smooth as needed. Apply super glue and chemical reaction (magic) occurs. After smoke clears, repair material is instantly hard. Not saying this takes the place of epoxy etc, but it IS instant!

I've used that in other applications for filling holes, it's pretty cool. Instant polymerization. Works best with the thinnest CA you can find.

Since this thread is as much prevention as it is repair, has anyone cut or rounded off the sharp corners of the grooves on a 8.50 X 6.00 to keep them from pinching small stones or mud and then releasing it into the prop? What did you use to do it? I actually watched the mud release from the 8.50 on take off and it begins by throwing rearward and upward to the underside of the flaps and as speed picks up the mud throw advances toward the leading edge on the underside until it is forward of the wing and then continues to advance the throw in an arc over the top of, and forward of the prop, and I just fly into it on acceleration. There are more stones picked up like this and thrown when wet and rolling than when it's dry but the run up is stone free. My particular situation. I made mud and stone deflectors for the wheels but nothing is 100% and losing some grooves on the tire might help. Sometimes the name is Mudstrip!

dirtstrip wrote:Since this thread is as much prevention as it is repair, has anyone cut or rounded off the sharp corners of the grooves on a 8.50 X 6.00 to keep them from pinching small stones or mud and then releasing it into the prop? What did you use to do it...?

Check out Shortfielder's post about 3/4 down on page 1. Sounds like Wup has what you're looking for. (As I recall, there is a nicer electric option as well)

http://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2552&hilit=grooves+wup

-DP

Shortfielder wrote:...It is a handheld tool, about the size of a utility knife. It has a U shaped,serrated, razor blade. It does change the shape of the groove from a U to a V. Took me about 5 min. per tire. I removed the tire and wheel to do it. Left the tire mounted. Didn't do quite as neat a job as I was hopeing for, but it did a good job, and I am happy with the results.

Gary

Thank you. I didn't know that tool existed and it was posted back before I did.

Found an electric hot-knife version for $65:
http://www.pmzracingproducts.com/tire_groover_1.html

Yellowmaule knows what he is talking about because i've operated 1 supercub and 2 bonanzas off a gravel strip home base for years with little or no prop damage, however it was fine gravel like chat.
gary

Haven't seen you post in quite a while, Kurt-- good to hear from you. Hope life is treating you well up there.
Looks like you put some fat tires on the yellow terror- BW's? What size?
Looks like you lost your razor too......

Eric