We are banging away getting the 206F ready. My debit card is running night noon and day getting the parts I need. I am just wondering when it comes to it, should I be planning on doing the 206F for keeps and invest in the panel/mods.... or do you put the money with it and look to trade up to an early 206H in the future.

If the 70's airplanes are better performance wise, do people stick with them and upgrade those rather than trade up to the restart model? The last decent Cessna I had was a 180K and a newer model was never an option. Looking at the prices, you could do alot of mods and improvements to the 1976 206F before I'd get close to the price of the earliest 206H models.

William

Everyone has his/her own opinion, but as the owner of an airplane a dozen years older than yours, which I've lived with for 14 1/2 years now, I'd say stick with the old one. You know it inside and out by now, and any newer one is an unknown quantity. Others will differ.

Cary

I would stick with the U206F model you have, and work to upgrade it. Or find a good G model, and do the same. The G has a bit more gas, and wet wings instead of bladders like the F.

The big difference between these planes and the later U206H model is the engine. The H model has an IO 540 Lycoming, or TIO 540 in the TU 206H. I like Lycoming engines, but those things are HEAVY. In fact, Cessna had to increase the H model's gross weight to even come close to the useful load of the earlier airplanes. Also, the H model airplanes have luxo interiors.....read HEAVY stuff. And, totally impractical for a workhorse airplane.

Also, the early H model airplanes were NOT equipped with the G 1000 panel, so if that's what you're thinking in terms of avionics, you'll be buying a significantly newer 206H, not one of the first ones. Early ones were equipped with King avionics.

I was faced with finding a 206 that would do our job, mostly hauling loads, and lots of that on floats after the crankshaft broke on our 185 and resulted in a totalled airplane. I looked at the F, G and H models. I discounted the H models because of their very heavy empty weight, and the fact that Cessna did not offer a seaplane tail on any H model.....even ones with a "seaplane kit".....whatever that was. So, buy an airplane, then go buy a used $20000 (at the time) vertical fin and rudder....Duh!

So, we found a very low time F model with a float kit, had Wipaire install their IO 550 engine kit, and float it. The plane had fiberglass tanks, replacing the bladders, which reduced useable fuel to 75 gallons, but I never really found the need for more gas in around 1500 hours I put on the plane. The Wip engine raises the Gross Weight to 3800 pounds, and that engine will MOVE that much weight.

The Lycoming engines burn more gas than either the IO 520 or IO 550 Continentals. Like two to three gallons more per hour. That's huge. I ran that IO 550 at 13.1 gallons per hour for many hours, and it ran cool and smooth. Buckets of power.

And, those H model interiors are massively heavy. Of course, you could buy one and strip all that leather and stuff out of it, but why not stick with the F and do the same?

I'd stick with the F, assuming it's a good solid plane, and upgrade the panel and engine as you have $$. With today's avionics you can upgrade such a plane so that it far exceeds the capability and user friendliness of the G 1000 as well.

Frankly, Cessna built the U-206H not as a working airplane, such as the F and G models were, but as a rich guys toy.

Now, if you're talking Turbocharged airplanes, I'll defer. The turbocharged Lycomings are a far tougher engine than the turbo'd Continentals, but your maintenance costs and fuel burn go through the roof.

MTV

niente qui

You’ve already received great input from two guys with vastly more experience than me but I’ll go ahead and share what I’ve learned.
I bought my 99 T206H in 2014 shortly after I finished my Inst rating with a whopping 180 hrs in my logbook.

Finding a clean unabused 206 can be a real challenge but of course the newer models don’t suffer from this so I focused there, looking for a re-start.
I was able to purchase mine w about 800 hrs on the tach, completely upgrade the panel, and still be about $60k shy of the asking prices for 04 g1000 models. BTW if I were to look for one of those I’d only consider the 06 and newer because of the gfc 700 AP that Dogpilot mentions. They are badass!
Anyway the first year annual was spendy getting everything dialed in and I thought after that it would be relatively painless. Not so.
I’m averaging about $15k/yr in maintenance including annuals. The turbo is expensive and the exhaust system is fragile, and also subsequently expensive.
I had a hangar incident and the plane was damaged last year and Beegles ended up doing the repairs. I got a new paint job out of the deal and Ray, Scott and their crew did a phenomenal job!!

Useful is 1280 and I true at 150 at 27.5/2350 burning 17 gph. I’ve run it lop burning 13 gph but lose about 15 knots.
I’ve flown it all over the west and it was nice to blast over Colorado this summer on the way to Idaho at 16,500! I like the turbo but again it’s expensive.
For my mission it’s really the only option for ME. I’m 6’4” and don’t fit in a Malibu or Bonanza.
I have no experience flying the Conti powered 206s. I’m sure they are fantastic. You can buy two 550s for the price of one new TIO 540.
As Mike said, I think the only thing u get with the float kit is the lift rings on top. Nice to grab when fueling but that’s about it.

Thanks to all for your very detailed replies, which I understand come from deep experience. I now have a better picture of the differences namely;

Engine
Soundproofing/Interior
Avionics (King v G1000)
Useful Load
Turbo V Non Turbo

I have no aspiration to get towards a Turbo aircraft for the location I am in. The U206G with a IO-550 should be my next step up before I think 206H. I will the finish the 3k hour U206F I have to a good standard without going overboard on the panel. I'll fly it for a year and see what area's it might need improving on. We plan to be doing alot of flying on 1-2hr legs with 6 pax no baggage from grass strips 1800ft plus during the summer time of year. Having brought this one back from a disused state I now a much better understanding of where they need a close inspection. I'm enjoying it.

Thanks again,

William

irishc180 wrote:Thanks to all for your very detailed replies, which I understand come from deep experience. I now have a better picture of the differences namely;

Engine
Soundproofing/Interior
Avionics (King v G1000)
Useful Load
Turbo V Non Turbo

I have no aspiration to get towards a Turbo aircraft for the location I am in. The U206G with a IO-550 should be my next step up before I think 206H. I will the finish the 3k hour U206F I have to a good standard without going overboard on the panel. I'll fly it for a year and see what area's it might need improving on. We plan to be doing alot of flying on 1-2hr legs with 6 pax no baggage from grass strips 1800ft plus during the summer time of year. Having brought this one back from a disused state I now a much better understanding of where they need a close inspection. I'm enjoying it.

Thanks again,

William

William,

With that description, first thing I’d do if hasn’t been already is install a Sportsman STOL kit. Then keep it as light as possible.

The F model is a great airplane—enjoy.

MTV

niente qui

Just to add: there is an SB on the exhaust system for the T206H. My feeling is it will lead to an AD but who knows.
Supposedly a new stainless system is available but I’ve yet to hear of anyone actually receiving it.
If you can live without the turbo I’d avoid it.

Just as an FYI, Lycoming specifically cautions not to operate their engines lean of peak. I once asked a tech rep if doing so would void warranty. He responded “No”.

Not starting PC, just pointing out a fact.

MTV

mtv wrote:Just as an FYI, Lycoming specifically cautions not to operate their engines lean of peak. I once asked a tech rep if doing so would void warranty. He responded “No”.

Not starting PC, just pointing out a fact.

MTV

Understood. My transition pilot encouraged me to fly LOP, him being an A&P I thought he would know.
I flew LOP for 100 hours or so with no problems but my current instructor (BFRs and working on Commercial) and my A&P have encouraged me to fly it by the book, which I now do regularly, and have a few hundred hours of flying to that way.
Recently I was coming back from KPSA and thought I’d try LOP again for more of a comfort margin with fuel. I was amazed at how different it ran!
I went back to book numbers.
I know it’ll do LOP but I think I’ll get GAMIs before I doit again SOP.

I've been very happy with the stainless steel Leading Edge tuned exhaust on the IO-520F. I used to have to repair the stock exhaust about every other annual. The stainless has been maintenance-free. I run it LOP pretty frequently unless there's a significant headwind. It's about a 10% speed reduction for 25% less fuel. I've got an EDM 760, so it's easy to monitor all 6 cylinders and fuel flow. I don't recall the results of the GAMI lean test (basically, the delta between Richest FF and Leanest FF), but it runs smooth and cool @ 12 gph, WOT/2,400 rpm. I find LOP especially useful during the hot summer months, when it otherwise takes full open cowl flaps and 17+ gph to keep the maximum CHT under 380. That said, I think I need to chase some leaks in the baffling to see if I can get better cooling.

YMMV

niente qui

Thanks for the good replies, and that's a real good tip about the Tuned SS exhaust and the sportsman STOL kit. I'll get it in the air first and modify once I've flown stock.

I live at 200ft above MSL. The people I want to carry in the back seats are all sub 140lbs, but the pilot might be twice that. I have no need for the turbo I think. The owner of a U206G with an IO-550 came to us yesterday, plane unflown for ten years. It's got wip 4000's and sportsman stol already on it. Wants to get it and his Goose flying again. So I may get a chance to examine what a trade up might be like first hand, albeit on floats.

Info from Lycoming: http://users.kymp.net/kotkanik/documents/SSP700A.pdf

MTV

irishc180 wrote:Thanks for the good replies, and that's a real good tip about the Tuned SS exhaust and the sportsman STOL kit. I'll get it in the air first and modify once I've flown stock.

I live at 200ft above MSL. The people I want to carry in the back seats are all sub 140lbs, but the pilot might be twice that. I have no need for the turbo I think. The owner of a U206G with an IO-550 came to us yesterday, plane unflown for ten years. It's got wip 4000's and sportsman stol already on it. Wants to get it and his Goose flying again. So I may get a chance to examine what a trade up might be like first hand, albeit on floats.

FWIW, leading edge does not make exhausts anymore. The company is for sale if your looking for a great turnkey opportunity for a cool business. They are a great exhaust though.

mtv wrote:Info from Lycoming: http://users.kymp.net/kotkanik/documents/SSP700A.pdf

MTV

Mike thanks for that article.
I’ve read a lot about LOP operations but haven’t stumbled across that one yet

Makes me wonder if I’ve done any harm.
Just another thing to worry about on a Sunday.

niente qui

Borescoped all cylinders a couple weeks ago. Removed valve covers as well and everything looks great.
Was it just me or did that article infer potential damage deeper within, ie. bearings and such, although for the life of me I can’t see how that could happen as long as temps are low.

I’ll change the tire pressure ASAP [emoji41]

niente qui