I am looking for recommendations on mechanics’ work gloves. I don’t own a plane ( yet ), but I do work on my boats, lawn mowers, Jeep, you name it. I usually wear thin nitrile gloves. That’s fine if I am replacing a wiper blade, or a spark plug. However, for more involved work I think a heavier work glove that still permits good manual dexterity would be the ticket. Here is a link to a short Video for Mechanix brand gloves. It provides a good overview.

Video Link:

I would also like to use these gloves possibly for safety reasons while flying. Here is a thread that discusses the danger of fire to a pilot, promotes wearing fire retardant clothing, and explains why clothing made of polyester, nylon, etc. should be avoided. The article in fact also recommends wearing or having gloves available in case of an “event”. So maybe gloves can serve several purposes. (Thanks to member Cannon here on BCP for this reference.)

Link: http://www.vansairforce.net/mytakeonflying.htm

I use gloves a lot. The trick I have learned is to buy in bulk when they are cheap. Every now and than I see a good deal on leather gloves I get 3-4 pairs. Same for mechanics gloves. I have several types of rubber gloves including insulated ones that are great for washing thing in freezing weather. I really don't go for a particular brand just buy them on sale some sit around on the shelf for a year or two before I use them but they are always there when I need them. Having spare gloves handy is good for when your friends show up and you need a hand
DENNY

I use TIG master gloves...when the distal ends of my upper extremities are in danger... For dirty safe work I use the black nitrile gloves with the texture bumps.


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Having lived in the frozen north for a lot of years, I too am a glove collector.

Lots of choices for working on stuff, but to me you lose a lot of the tactile feel with any glove I've used that's much heavier than a good nitrile type.

As to flame retardence, leather gloves will protect your hands as well as anything from fire. I carry a pair of very supple deerskin gloves in the plane for this.

For years in my work I was required to fly with flame retardant clothing and I typically wore military issue Nomex/leather gloves. Those are nice gloves but spendy, and frankly not that durable for anything except just flying. Which is why I use plain leather gloves now that I'm buying them.

MTV

I try to wear gloves....can't stand 'em!! In the winter, I do wear some "cold grips" when it gets down really cold, but if I'm not working on barbed wire (where leather is king) I hate the loss of feel. I try to wear the Nitrile gloves for mechanic work, and really should, as I have an allergy to petroleum....but same thing....just can't stand the lack of feeling as well as the way they tend to make my hands sweat. When in the paint booth, I'm covered up, but other than that, I tend to not be.
John

I wear these
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grease-Monke ... /202709681

They are tough enough to prevent minor cuts and abrasions but thin enough that I can pick up a washer off the work bench.

They hold up to MEK about as good as the blue latex gloves (to say they really dont hold up to MEK)

What they really protect you from is grimey hands at the end of the day.
I work at a computer all day. The skin on my hands isn't as tough as when I worked in a garage all day.

I also prefer just plain leather. I have been trying to be good about wearing nitrile when changing oil and handling things like varsol, but in a couple minutes hands are so sweaty I can hardly stand it. I've tried mechanics gloves and they either have too much padding on them, or they wear out too fast for the price you pay. I also really don't like velcro straps on my wrist. Just adds to the time it takes to put them on/take them off.
Bulk packs of deerskin at Costco gets my vote and business.

When I was 19, I froze my fingers, so that my hands are ultra sensitive to cold. That means good leather gloves, preferably with Thinsulate insulation in them, for normal wear, whenever the temp drops below about +50F. But still I've never been able to accomplish much mechanical work with gloves on, regardless of thickness, so it takes me 4 or 5 times longer to get things done--take off gloves, do a little work, put on gloves till hands warm up again, repeat, etc. That's my excuse for being so mechanically inefficient, but it's also the truth.

FWIW, I've found that Carhartt makes some excellent, warm, sturdy all leather gloves, at a reasonable price. They call them "drivers gloves", $32.

Cary

Bit of thread drift. When you do not have your gloves on and decide to cut or stab your hand with whatever you are working on do no close the wound with super glue!!! Just scrub the wound with soap and water and put on a clean dressing and move on (with a glove). It will bleed for a while just keep the wound covered. The bleeding will actually help clean the wound. Using super glue just seals and bacteria into the wound and increases you chance of infection.
DENNY

Hope I don't sidetrack the glove aspect of protection from cuts/hot surfaces, but I was introduced to
"Invisible Gloves #1211"
when I was working on a fabric covering job and they are superb when you need fine dexterity and protection from harsh chemicals.
It comes as a tub, lotion like consistency, rub it on your hands, dries in a minute, WORK, wash off with soap and water.
A $8 tub lasts me around a year of use...
For protection from chemicals (even MEK), exhaust soot, etc., they are priceless compared to the 'sweaty hands' of nitrile gloves...(and you can use it all the way up your forearms, so you can avoid that greasy, exhaust stained arm)

If it's hot surfaces I'm threatened with...always leather gloves...right up until the index finger gets a hole in it...
Too bad you can't reverse them like nitrile gloves and use up the other side!

a mans gloves are called calluses!

MS Pirate wrote:Hope I don't sidetrack the glove aspect of protection from cuts/hot surfaces, but I was introduced to
"Invisible Gloves #1211"
when I was working on a fabric covering job and they are superb when you need fine dexterity and protection from harsh chemicals.
It comes as a tub, lotion like consistency, rub it on your hands, dries in a minute, WORK, wash off with soap and water.
A $8 tub lasts me around a year of use...
For protection from chemicals (even MEK), exhaust soot, etc., they are priceless compared to the 'sweaty hands' of nitrile gloves...(and you can use it all the way up your forearms, so you can avoid that greasy, exhaust stained arm)

If it's hot surfaces I'm threatened with...always leather gloves...right up until the index finger gets a hole in it...
Too bad you can't reverse them like nitrile gloves and use up the other side!

Where is this stuff available?

Cary

Invisible Gloves #1211
I get mine from Aircraft Spruce.
Also available at Wick's and many fabric covering supply shops will also sell it...

(Ensure you get the #1211, there are various other coded numbers, but you'll have to read their labels to ensure what chemicals
you are protected from with each different product.)

I'm with A1 on the Costco train. I probably buy 9 pairs per year. Wear out 3 and lose 6. For turning wrenches, I prefer bare hands but for pretty much anything else I like a nice pair of leather gloves.

Besides, my wife likes the look of a man with a bit of grease under his fingernails.

MS Pirate wrote:Invisible Gloves #1211
I get mine from Aircraft Spruce.
Also available at Wick's and many fabric covering supply shops will also sell it...

(Ensure you get the #1211, there are various other coded numbers, but you'll have to read their labels to ensure what chemicals
you are protected from with each different product.)

Gonna get me some! I spent the last 3 days prepping, priming, and painting the little tiny bathroom off our bedroom, and I think I spent way more time than should have been necessary washing the paint off my hands. Even latex paint sticks like glue. Maybe this stuff would be a big help!

Cary

I never used to like wearing gloves to work, didn't like the lack of feeling. I did wear heavy cotton (?) White Ox gloves around welding or other hot stuff, and in cold weather I wore fingerless knit gloves-- otherwise I worked barehanded.
But a few years ago I hired on to a big job at a Navy submarine base with a very enhanced safety program. Besides the normal hardhat, required wear was steel-toed boots, safety vest, eye protection, and gloves. The contractor provided several choices of gloves, but I grew to like the thin nylon ones with thin rubbery coating on the palm & fingers. Thin enough to feel, tough enough to last for 2-3 weeks. I ended up preferring to wear gloves while working, so I took as many as I could as a separation bonus when I got laid off. Later on I googles up a place to buy more-- $12 for a dozen.

http://www.gosafetysupplies.com/pip-33- ... Akt_8P8HAQ



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