At what temperature do you apply engine pre-heat?

The article below, with input from Lycoming and Continental, suggest that it is not required unless it is below 10*F for Lycomings and 20*F for Continentals.

These temperatures seem a bit low to me.

http://www.avweb.com/news/features/What ... 257-1.html

For what it's worth Mau Mau my Maule is hangared and I have the luxury of turning on the pre heat via cell phone. So if the temp drops below 40F I turn on the heat, I use a Reiff with the cylinder bands and oil sump element

What sort of cell phone activated switch (or whatever) do you use that you can turn on with the cell phone? Jim Chuk

My plane is in a hanger as well, and I have the Reiff Turbo XP with the oil cooler heater option.

I turn it on remotely and the engine and oil are around 110*F when I arrive.

My question though, is at what temperatures do you guys normally turn your pre-heaters on?

I was just surprised to read that above 10*F, Lycoming states that you do not need to pre-heat.

Jim
Its a photosensor wired to a set of dry contacts with some IC components. It's available online, I think I paid $18 for it, dont remember the name of the kit Ill check it out next trip to the hangar, i can try to post a picture of it
I use an old syle flip phone, when I call the phone screen lights up activating the photo cell. Call once hang up wait 30 seconds call second time and hang up, this turns on the relay closes the dry contacts and energizes my pre-heater. Call one more time to turn off. Its a bit of a pain in the ass, you need the kit, a receptacle, an indicator light, some wiring ease, a cheap flip style cell phone ,a pre pay plan for the cold months and an enclosure thats dark. It costs $15 a month for the phone pre pay and i set it up to only take calls from numbers in the address book to prevent false on/off events.
Mau Mau 40F iand below i use preheat

Mau Mau,

My personal temperature "trigger" is 30 F. If it's colder than that, I always try to preheat. Now, understand that on occasion, you're parked out there where there's no current bush, and the engine gets a little cooler than you'd prefer. Rather than sleep there, and try to figure out how to warm it up tomorrow, I've started engines down to close to the Lycoming recommended 10 degree F figure. Not my favorite, though.

If it's below freezing, it's a great idea to apply some heat.

And, don't forget that what you're really concerned about is the CORE of that motor....that VERY expensive crankshaft/bearings/camshaft, followers, etc. It takes a little while for that externally applied heat to warm the core of your engine....don't rush the pre heat process.

MTV

Under 32 degrees my 0-320 becomes noticeably harder to start so I preheat anytime it get near or below freezing.

For remote switching of electrical devices there is a WiFi activated switch module from Belkin. It is called WeMo and works with a free I-phone app. You just have to have a WiFi signal in the area that the module is plugged into an electrical outlet. Cost between $40 to $60 depending on which WiFi switch you buy. http://www.belkin.com/us/F7C027/p/P-F7C027/

Reiff makes one:

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/GSM-SWITCH.htm

Mn avidflyer wrote:What sort of cell phone activated switch (or whatever) do you use that you can turn on with the cell phone? Jim Chuk

What do people think about leaving a heater (thermostat controlled) on all the time under an insulated cowl and prop cover. If it has a thermostat and it keeps the engine at 70 degrees - is it any different than being in a heated hangar? Easier than pre heating.

These guys recommend leaving it heated full time:

http://www.aircraftheaters.com/#!aircraftheaters/c10my

I preheat below 50. It's easy enough, I have a cell phone switch too, so I'm kinder to the motor than needed. Nice thing is, that way I don't have to sit there at the intersection waiting for the oil to get warm enough so I feel comfortable pouring the coals to it - - it's already 110 F when I leave the hangar.

I have a simple EZ-Heat pad heater on the sump It heats the whole engine as I cover the cowl with an old sleeping bag (with zipper removed).

The photo cell thing seems pricey at $15 a month. I have a sim card set up with T-Mobile and it costs me $10 every three months.

If you do a search on <GSM switch> (also check eBay), you can find some ready built two relay output switches similar to this one:

http://www.gsm-auto.com/

I can call it and it'll respond only to my cell phone, turning the relay 1 output on for 18 hours, call again and it turns off. Or I can send a text message and turn either output 1 or 2 on or off - - it also sends back a confirmation message letting me know the status of the output.

My GSM switch is located 24 feet up on a beam in my hangar. The two outputs then go via extension cord to each plane. Above the plane there's a little pully with a cord and counter weight that lifts the extension cord out of the way when not needed - - so no cords laying around.

There is one downside to this. Couple of weeks ago the GSM switch stopped working. Got the man lift and up I go to unplug the d&me thing to see what the problem is. Get it down and take the case off - - plug it in and it works just fine. Then it hits me . . . duh! . . . when my cell phone goes TU, I cycle power. I could have done the same to the GSM switch by simply turning off the breaker. Next time.

bumper

Thanks guys for the answers about the cell phone activated switch. I had bought a switch that you put a sim card into on ebay (it's from China) but wasn't able to program it to work. Yesterday I ordered one of those kits you put togeather that read the light from the phone when it rings. I was curious what other options were available it this one doesn't work out. AT&T has the go phone that costs $10 per month for 30 minutes of use, and they give you the sim card for free. Thanks, Jim

soyAnarchisto wrote:What do people think about leaving a heater (thermostat controlled) on all the time under an insulated cowl and prop cover. If it has a thermostat and it keeps the engine at 70 degrees - is it any different than being in a heated hangar? Easier than pre heating.

These guys recommend leaving it heated full time:

http://www.aircraftheaters.com/#!aircraftheaters/c10my

Wow, they are proud of those suckers, ain't they. Cheapest being $200 for a 125 watt heater! Here's a little 200 watt heater for less than $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat- ... all+heater

BTW, when it comes to electric heaters, one manufacturers 100watt heater has exactly the same efficiency as the next, so it's hard to imagine how slapping an "aircraft heater" sticker on the outside justifies that kind of price - - okay, I'm sure it's better quality and will last longer . . . so buy two cheap ones.

Leaving a heater on: For a sump heater in humid climes, this can be a problem, as cool air on the outside of the engine can cause condensation on the inside surfaces of the rocker covers. This moisture will then run down into the sump, combine with sulfur by-products of combustion to form acids. Using a cowl cover will mitigate the risk as it helps keep the whole engine compartment warm.

I turn mine on by cell phone the night before I'm going to fly.

Another cheap, convenient and efficient heater is to use an electric "heat pad", slips inside the cowl flap and, if an insulated engine cover or old sleeping bag is used, will do a decent job of keeping it warm in an unheated hangar. This one is 55 watts and $13 : http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-731-500-H ... s=heat+pad

bumper

Nice to see some hi-tech activating device and got me thinking...but my old fashion phone activator still works flawlessly and operates as follows: I call the house number a voice answers with “Hello dear” I reply “Sweetheart could you please go to the hangar and plug the airplane in, Thanks”
Walks across the yard and plugs cord in – insures light in plug at electric heater is on. Added bonus checks the mouse traps surrounding the wheels.
Foolproof so far but never go to bed mad in the evening!!!

bumper wrote:

soyAnarchisto wrote:What do people think about leaving a heater (thermostat controlled) on all the time under an insulated cowl and prop cover. If it has a thermostat and it keeps the engine at 70 degrees - is it any different than being in a heated hangar? Easier than pre heating.

These guys recommend leaving it heated full time:

http://www.aircraftheaters.com/#!aircraftheaters/c10my

Wow, they are proud of those suckers, ain't they. Cheapest being $200 for a 125 watt heater! Here's a little 200 watt heater for less than $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat- ... all+heater

BTW, when it comes to electric heaters, one manufacturers 100watt heater has exactly the same efficiency as the next, so it's hard to imagine how slapping an "aircraft heater" sticker on the outside justifies that kind of price - - okay, I'm sure it's better quality and will last longer . . . so buy two cheap ones.

Leaving a heater on: For a sump heater in humid climes, this can be a problem, as cool air on the outside of the engine can cause condensation on the inside surfaces of the rocker covers. This moisture will then run down into the sump, combine with sulfur by-products of combustion to form acids. Using a cowl cover will mitigate the risk as it helps keep the whole engine compartment warm.

I turn mine on by cell phone the night before I'm going to fly.

Another cheap, convenient and efficient heater is to use an electric "heat pad", slips inside the cowl flap and, if an insulated engine cover or old sleeping bag is used, will do a decent job of keeping it warm in an unheated hangar. This one is 55 watts and $13 : http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-731-500-H ... s=heat+pad

bumper

Bumper,

Let's see, you paid, what? $100 K plus for that Husky? And, it's in a hangar, of course....that's cheap, right? So, you're looking to buy a Wal Mart heat source to pre heat that "investment"?

RIGHT!

So, let's say your Wal Mart special burns down that hangar one day, with that Husky in it...... Saved a lot of money, right? Oh, and trying to recover from Wal Mart or whoever else you got that bargain heater from isn't going to go well....."Wait, you put OUR heater on an AIRPLANE????? Oh my word, we never would suggest putting that heater on an AIRPLANE!".

Reiff, Tanis and EZHeat make equipment specifically for aircraft use and application. Me, I think that's a good thing. A little (lot) more testing, and quality control is a good thing in my opinion, and that costs a little more.

And, yes, I have used "Little Buddy" forced air heaters in my airplanes, I've used Whamo catalytic heaters, etc. But, in general, I would only use those things in situations where I'm dealing with an airplane I don't own and which isn't equipped with a good aircraft engine heater.

MTV

I also use a GSM switch triggered by text message. It's nice because you can query the state of the relays (get home wondering did I turn it off?) Got it off of ebay but did have to modify the internal wiring to heavy gauge wire because I wasn't satisfied with the wiring it came with (though the relays were big enough). One relay is conencted to the Tanis, the other goes to a 600w thermostatically controlled ceramic space heater in the cab on the floor. Nice to get into a warm cabin and have those old instruments warmed up too.

If I am wearing a jacket or coat, I turn it on the night before... it's so convenient, why not. Lycamobile sim card (T-mobile network) costs $10 a year.


20131102_114642 by scottf, on Flickr



20131102_114652 by scottf, on Flickr

MTV,

Electric heaters use simple, inexpensive components. A resistive element for heat, and optionally a thermostat and fan. Typically the electrical parts are UL rated for safety. That would be the case if they cost $200 (like the portable heater with the pricey "aircraft" decal in question), or $10, like the mug heater that is keeping my coffee warm. Neither show much tendency to spontaneously combust.

I have EZ heats installed on the sump on two aircraft. They do a great job in the hangar with cowl cover. Certainly worth the $100 or so they cost in convenience alone. For a number of years before adding the EZ heats, I used a heating pad slipped into the lower cowl opening - that worked quite well also. I use a similar heating pad to keep my old back warm - - not much risk of fire there either.

A good (and safe) aircraft heater can be thrown together using an inexpensive portable forced air heater and dryer duct. Heater stays on the ground, duct goes to cowl. Doubtless more convenient than a heater you have to fit into a cowl opening, no way that would happen on my Mooney.

Aircraft prices *are* obscene, no question. That would be a whole 'nuther thread, but basically it's because of the FAA, our inane tort system, and our predisposition to sue everything in sight when things go wrong. Along with a hand-built, low volume product. Thus, if you want to buy a new certified airplane, it's going to cost about as much as a house. Fortunately, when buying an electric heater, there are reasonably priced alternatives.

bumper

so a thermostat controlled electric heater heats the entire compartment from the inside out - with an insulated cowl and prop cover to keep it all in

Do people still feel that is a concern for condensation inside the case? Again, seems to make logical sense to me - the engine can't tell if its inside a heated hangar or just under a snug blanky

I also was thinking that a simple electric blanket under a cowl cover could accomplish the same thing.

What other arguments for a cell phone switch (or the honey-do phone call) for preheat versus 24-7 heat?

mtv wrote:My personal temperature "trigger" is 30 F. If it's colder than that, I always try to preheat. Now, understand that on occasion, you're parked out there where there's no current bush, and the engine gets a little cooler than you'd prefer. Rather than sleep there, and try to figure out how to warm it up tomorrow, I've started engines down to close to the Lycoming recommended 10 degree F figure. Not my favorite, though...
MTV

I'm with MTV. Not based on peer-reviewed science, just personal observation and comfort level. Why not throw some heat at it in the hour(s) before you plan to fly, if you can? And given the choice, I prefer Tanis or Reiff over the jury rig options. Even if you don't buy the efficacy arguments, at least you're not going to accidentally taxi out with a lightbulb or a ceramic bathroom heater inside your engine compartment.
As for the remote starts, I see the appeal, but for me it's a short trip to plug in the plane, and my pre-heat ritual includes items like making sure that the fuel cut-off is pulled, making sure the electric cord is secure, and placing a hand in the cowl to make sure it really is making heat. Flying here in winter entails a couple hours of chores before engine start anyway, so I am out there laying eyes on the plane anyway.
-DP

Any experience with this unit?
http://www.fadodge.com/index.php?option=com_djcatalog2&view=item&id=119%3Anortherncompainionpreheater&cid=20%3Afeatured&Itemid=53