Backcountry Pilot • Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Lycoming, Continental, Hartzell, McCauley, or any broad spectrum drive system component used on multiple type.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

gbflyer wrote:Mobile 1 Racing 4T from Walmart. It's around $6 a quart. Don't put it in your Lycoming or Continental though.


Damn I need to check Walmart! I was paying 10.99 a quart at Advance Auto Parts.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Of course that Walmart stuff is probably a Chinese knock-off. Probably the real deal at AAP! :-)
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

mtv wrote:
Cary wrote:FWIW, when my engine guy built my Lycoming O-360 engine 11 years ago, his recommendation then was Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100 in the summer. My IA agrees. I asked about multi-weight and other brands. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100.

More recently, I asked each of them again. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100. I also asked my IA about Camguard--didn't think to ask my engine guy. Again, both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, and my IA said I wouldn't get any benefit from Camguard if I changed the oil as needed, flew frequently, etc.

So guess what? I run Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, no Camguard. The engine has roughly 700 hours on it since it was built, burns very little oil, had excellent compressions at the annual in February, runs great, averages 9.8 gph, with the back 2 cylinders running hotter than the front 2. I average just under 65 hours per year, a bit more in the summer due to the OSH and other trips, a bit less in the winter. In cold weather, I preheat. I have no idea how its innards are other than its symptoms are of a good engine doing what it's supposed to do. With new plugs at this last annual, it starts easier, but I don't notice any other changes.

Cary


Oh, they're out there. I once knew a VERY experienced IA who said running AD oil like Aeroshell W-100 in a P & W R 985 would just plain ruin that engine. Engine went to TBO and was clean as a whistle, and got there without the least bit of trouble.

Don't use multi viscosity oils?? Really?? Then you must not ever fly in cold weather......cause there'll come a time when you stop somewhere in cold weather for fuel or weather, and wait a little bit too long.....and now that VERY expensive engine of yours has pretty thick goo in the pan, which may or may not provide much lubrication for the first five minutes of run time after that cold start. Now, I'm not suggesting that you start a totally cold soaked engine, I'm just talking about the case where it got a little colder than you'd like. How much wear occurs then?

Don't use CamGuard? Really? Both major engine manufacturers now authorize its use in their engines. As in, it's approved. Unlike Marvel Mystery Oil, or any of a dozen other flavors of snake oil. Virtually every knowledgeable lubricant expert these days is saying that Cam Guard does what the manufacturer claims it does. Have you read any of Mike Busch's discussions on the subject?

And, yes, if you run that engine faithfully and almost daily, you don't need Cam Guard. But if that engine sits without running for a couple weeks at a time occasionally, Cam Guard might just save your bacon. Cam Guard was developed by a lubricants engineer who worked for Exxon at the time, by the way, not some backyard "expert".

But, your local wrenches are the REAL experts on lubricants, apparently. :roll:

For the record, I use Exxon Elite multi viscosity oil and Cam Guard.

Finally, a very old aviation saying, that is still true today: Oil is the cheapest thing you'll put into your engine.

MTV


Well, I do fly in pretty cold weather, but I'm prepared to plug in the airplane and cover the cowl when I do. I've learned to trust the advice of both of my "wrenches", as they've not misled me on other things. That doesn't mean that they're right, of course, but maybe they are. Heck, I don't know! I have looked for any Lycoming service bulletins or service letters which would shed light on this, but I haven't found them. So I've sent an email to Lycoming, and I'll post whatever they tell me.

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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Cary wrote:
mtv wrote:
Cary wrote:FWIW, when my engine guy built my Lycoming O-360 engine 11 years ago, his recommendation then was Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100 in the summer. My IA agrees. I asked about multi-weight and other brands. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100.

More recently, I asked each of them again. Both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100. I also asked my IA about Camguard--didn't think to ask my engine guy. Again, both repeated, Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, and my IA said I wouldn't get any benefit from Camguard if I changed the oil as needed, flew frequently, etc.

So guess what? I run Aeroshell 80 in the winter and Aeroshell 100, no Camguard. The engine has roughly 700 hours on it since it was built, burns very little oil, had excellent compressions at the annual in February, runs great, averages 9.8 gph, with the back 2 cylinders running hotter than the front 2. I average just under 65 hours per year, a bit more in the summer due to the OSH and other trips, a bit less in the winter. In cold weather, I preheat. I have no idea how its innards are other than its symptoms are of a good engine doing what it's supposed to do. With new plugs at this last annual, it starts easier, but I don't notice any other changes.

Cary


Oh, they're out there. I once knew a VERY experienced IA who said running AD oil like Aeroshell W-100 in a P & W R 985 would just plain ruin that engine. Engine went to TBO and was clean as a whistle, and got there without the least bit of trouble.

Don't use multi viscosity oils?? Really?? Then you must not ever fly in cold weather......cause there'll come a time when you stop somewhere in cold weather for fuel or weather, and wait a little bit too long.....and now that VERY expensive engine of yours has pretty thick goo in the pan, which may or may not provide much lubrication for the first five minutes of run time after that cold start. Now, I'm not suggesting that you start a totally cold soaked engine, I'm just talking about the case where it got a little colder than you'd like. How much wear occurs then?

Don't use CamGuard? Really? Both major engine manufacturers now authorize its use in their engines. As in, it's approved. Unlike Marvel Mystery Oil, or any of a dozen other flavors of snake oil. Virtually every knowledgeable lubricant expert these days is saying that Cam Guard does what the manufacturer claims it does. Have you read any of Mike Busch's discussions on the subject?

And, yes, if you run that engine faithfully and almost daily, you don't need Cam Guard. But if that engine sits without running for a couple weeks at a time occasionally, Cam Guard might just save your bacon. Cam Guard was developed by a lubricants engineer who worked for Exxon at the time, by the way, not some backyard "expert".

But, your local wrenches are the REAL experts on lubricants, apparently. :roll:

For the record, I use Exxon Elite multi viscosity oil and Cam Guard.

Finally, a very old aviation saying, that is still true today: Oil is the cheapest thing you'll put into your engine.

MTV


Well, I do fly in pretty cold weather, but I'm prepared to plug in the airplane and cover the cowl when I do. I've learned to trust the advice of both of my "wrenches", as they've not misled me on other things. That doesn't mean that they're right, of course, but maybe they are. Heck, I don't know! I have looked for any Lycoming service bulletins or service letters which would shed light on this, but I haven't found them. So I've sent an email to Lycoming, and I'll post whatever they tell me.

Cary


Lycoming responded right away. Here's the text of the email:

Hello Cary,

Lycoming Engines does not currently approve the use of Camguard. Attached is a SB that covers approved use of oil additives, and how to use them. Please note that this does not cover every engine model.

Best Regards,

Heath Johnson
Field Service Technical Representative
Lycoming Engines, a div. of Avco Corporation


The email included a pdf which is Lycoming SB 446E. It indicates that certain Lycoming engines, O-320-H, O-360-E, LO-360-E, TO-360-E, LTO-360-E series, require a specific Lycoming approved additive, LW16702. That in turn refers to FAA SAIB NE0631, which lists the oils which already have that additive in it. If I could figure out how to attach the SB and SAIB here, I would do so. The best I can do is copy the list of oils with the date each was approved:

Aeroshell Oil W 15W-50 November 9, 1987
Aeroshell Oil W 100 Plus May 4, 1999
Exxon Aviation Oil Elite 20W-50 January 24, 2000
Castrol Aviator AD 65 May 27, 2003
Castrol Aviator AD 80 May 27, 2003
Castrol Aviator AD 100 May 27, 2003
Castrol Aviator AD 120 May 27, 2003
Aeroshell Oil W 80 Plus February 6, 2006
Phillips 66 Victory® Aviation Oil 100AW April 4, 2006
Total AERO DM 15W50 May 22, 2009
Total AERO XPD 80 June 17, 2011
Total AERO XPD 100 June 17, 2011
Total AERO XPD 120 June 17, 2011

All that FWIW.

Cary
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Cary,

My bad. CamGuard has been tested to the FAA requirements for use in aircraft engines. Therefore, it is an approved additive. Take a look at the Cam Guard web site....lots of good information there. And, it's not just an anti corrosion additive, by the way, though that's one of its roles.

MTV
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

mtv wrote:Cary,

My bad. CamGuard has been tested to the FAA requirements for use in aircraft engines. Therefore, it is an approved additive. Take a look at the Cam Guard web site....lots of good information there. And, it's not just an anti corrosion additive, by the way, though that's one of its roles.

MTV


I have nothing against Camguard, other than it's expensive, and I haven't yet been persuaded that it's necessary. Of course, I felt that way about STP years ago, but was convinced when instead of burning 300 miles per quart in my 53 Ford Vicky, a can of STP helped me make it to 1000 miles! Times do change, right? :)

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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Bringin up an old thread here. A buddy of mine and I have talked a couple times about this in the past and again today. I used Aeroshell for many years with no issues. One of my mechanics talked me into Phillips XC last year, and the cheaper price was nice, but I know can be costly in the long run. I hate to change from something I have never had issue with, but also hate to argue with the more knowledgable.
Part of our discussion revolves around the idea that Phillips says on the label that it can be used for break in. Wouldn't that mean that it doesn't have the lubricity of the Aeroshell? On my Pponks, Steve would not warrantee the engine unless you ran Aeroshell in it, and I always considered him pretty knowledgable too.
OK, lets hear it. Thanks G
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

shortfielder wrote:Bringin up an old thread here. A buddy of mine and I have talked a couple times about this in the past and again today. I used Aeroshell for many years with no issues. One of my mechanics talked me into Phillips XC last year, and the cheaper price was nice, but I know can be costly in the long run. I hate to change from something I have never had issue with, but also hate to argue with the more knowledgable.
Part of our discussion revolves around the idea that Phillips says on the label that it can be used for break in. Wouldn't that mean that it doesn't have the lubricity of the Aeroshell? On my Pponks, Steve would not warrantee the engine unless you ran Aeroshell in it, and I always considered him pretty knowledgable too.
OK, lets hear it. Thanks G
Hey Gary. I just had this discussion with 2 of the engine shops I work with and here's what they told me.
Up to 25hrs, both oils are very similar. What they have both found is that after 25hrs the additives start dropping out of the Phillips 20W50. So if running Phillips they recommend 25hr oil changes. Don't have to change the spin on filter every 25, they say still do it at 50. If running Aeroshell then run it to 50hrs, change filter and oil. The additives don't fall out of it as fast. They also recommend AvBlend added at oil changes if burning mogas, it helps scavenge the fuel additives out of the engine.

Not sure if they are 100% correct, but one is a very well known shop in North America and the other is a lesser known shop here in Alberta. I run Aeroshell, haven't had any issues with it in 10 years, and 99% of my customers run it as well. No known problems from it yet.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

I never used Phillips until 2009 when Central Cylinder overhauled my 470K. They said to use 20/50XC from the start for the ECI Nickel cylinders. After a few longer flight at first it was mostly half hour duration for 272 hrs. It never sat too long and oil was changed at 25 hrs. Fast forward to last July when I made that engine into a Pponk. I told them to reuse anything that looked good that I didn't care if it was a 0 time major. They reused the crank, cam, lifters, and I think most of the bearings. With over 500 starts, the Phillips must have been pretty good A light bulb under the oil pan was the preheat. I was using my Capehart reusable spin on filter with magnets. This time for the Pponk Superior steel cylinders they said to run mineral oil for break in for two 25 hr times and I went with Phillips 20/50 M. With the Reiff preheat system I put on, I might go back to straight weight Aeroshell. I really like the Reiff, so far, even in the summer.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Thanks

Makes sense I guess. I ran Aeroshell for 20+ years, and (MMO ion my fuel in which is also supposed to maybe help with the scavenging???). I also think MMO leaves a layer of oil on my bladders which may help extend their life too since I don't always keep my tanks full. Been running the Avblend the last maybe 15 years. And am still running it with the Phillips. I went to changing oil and filter at 25 on my newest engine, even before switching oils. I used to go 40-45 hrs, and there were no problems, I guess I just got more conservative.
The engine had a tear down at 1000 hrs and the shop said it was the cleanest one theyhad eve torn down, so thought I must have been doing something right, except for landing in the snow with wheels instead of skiis. :>)) . Clean oil, clean air, and proper engine temps air are probly the most important things for these old tractor engines and a small price to pay compared to what the repairs cost.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

I agree, I think your last statement is bang on. I think its all good, I just run what I stock.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

I guess in the end, it may not make much difference which aviation oil ya use, most importantly change when it starts to color, or sooner, or after a period of time if you don't fly that much, but what I was really curious about was the idea that one could be used for break in, which in our minds would mean that it didn't have the lubricity of the other oil, and if that were the case, why would anyone prefer it. Obviously, it seems in the end, either is fine, I was just curious. Always wanting the best for my baby.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

shortfielder wrote:I guess in the end, it may not make much difference which aviation oil ya use, most importantly change when it starts to color, or sooner, or after a period of time if you don't fly that much, but what I was really curious about was the idea that one could be used for break in, which in our minds would mean that it didn't have the lubricity of the other oil, and if that were the case, why would anyone prefer it. Obviously, it seems in the end, either is fine, I was just curious. Always wanting the best for my baby.


Ya, it is interesting that you can use it for break-in. My mind thinks the same as yours, that it means it isn't lubricating as well. I use Aeroshell Mineral for break-in as well. It is an interesting consideration, but I've never heard that questioned until now...
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

The company I fly for also owns one of the more reputable engine shops in Alaska. All of our engines are "broken in" on the shop test stand (NOT 20 hours for sure, more like 4 I think) then go straight into the airplanes where they run XC oil and rando pilots run them 24/24 from climbout to short final, or the equivalent settings on TSIO's, with lots of 15min hops between lakes and villages. When a cylinder is replaced with new, there are no special procedures for operating the plane differently afterwards.

It's always made me wonder about this kind of stuff considering when I get my top overhaul on my C180 back in 2018 I was told to run it hard for 25 hours, high power and long flights.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Last year, Phillips introduced this “victory” oil that includes the additives for use in Lycomings.

https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/phi ... eight-oil/

We are running it in our Husky. We have about 400 hours on it with no trouble, though that is not very conclusive.

Anyone have any more info on this stuff?

Might start running in in the 180 as well.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Scolopax wrote:Last year, Phillips introduced this “victory” oil that includes the additives for use in Lycomings.

https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/phi ... eight-oil/

We are running it in our Husky. We have about 400 hours on it with no trouble, though that is not very conclusive.

Anyone have any more info on this stuff?

Might start running in in the 180 as well.


I’ve been running this stuff. At OSH I talked to the owner of Camguard. Someone asked him about this oil and the additive. His response was that the additive is an anti-scuff additive. But, what Lycomings need is an anti corrosion additive, not an anti scuff additive. He said buy the base Phillips XC and add some Cam Guard.

He’s a pretty smart guy, actually.

MTV
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

I was about to making a comment about the victory oil actually being cheaper than normal XC, but decided to verify before posting. To my surprise, spruce has the victory 20w50 for $102/case and the XC 20w50 for $75 a case. Big difference. So I checked my spruce order history and back in march I got a case of Victory for $72, which I got because it was cheaper than XC AND good for lycs. Wonder what changed since then or if that was some introductory price to get people hooked?

Anytime I order enough to get free shipping from spruce, I automatically throw a case of oil onto the order.
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

Most important thing is changing oil at specified tach time intervals AND calendar intervals. Lycoming states xx tach time or every 4 months, whichever comes first. Don't forget about the calendar time interval, you would be amazed how many “superbly maintained” airplanes are out there that only get once a year at annual time oil changes because they haven't flown the the 25 or 50 hours of tach time. CHANGE YOUR OIL!

Kurt
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

G44 wrote:Most important thing is changing oil at specified tach time intervals AND calendar intervals. Lycoming states xx tach time or every 4 months, whichever comes first. Don't forget about the calendar time interval, you would be amazed how many “superbly maintained” airplanes are out there that only get once a year at annual time oil changes because they haven't flown the the 25 or 50 hours of tach time. CHANGE YOUR OIL!

Kurt
I've heard this before, and seen it in lycoming literature, but I'm curious what their reasoning is. Is it strictly to get moisture out of the engine? The oil doesn't go bad just sitting in there. Can you shed some light on this?
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Re: Phillips vs. Aeroshell

I would recommend against using Aeroshell 15W-50, Aeroshell W80 Plus, Aeroshell W100 Plus or the new Phillips Victory 20W50 in a big bore Continental, as they all contain the “Lycoming additive.” This additive is required in the infamous Lycoming O320-H2AD and a small handful of other Lycomings due to rust causing extreme valve train wear. This additive contains triphenyl phosphate (TPP). TPP can create phosphoric acid, which can attack seals and magneto cushions. In the big Continentals with the starter adapter, the phosphate can form on the spring in the starter adapter, causing it to slip. As long as the starter adapter is in good shape and you have a well-charged, high capacity battery, this shouldn’t be a problem, but otherwise it could be an issue for your starter adapter. For these reasons I have switched to the regular Phillips multi-vis 20W-50 without the Lycoming additive (I made the switch after reading a recent Aviation Consumer article written by Paul Millner, a retired oil company technical expert, who provided the above info).

I also swear by Camguard, as I (like most people) don’t quite fly often enough. As noted above by others, Ed Kollin, who developed it when working for Exxon, is a very knowledgeable lubrication engineer. He is also very helpful if you have a question. I think when he developed the Camguard additive, it proved too expensive for Exxon to add it to their aviation oil, so he struck out on his own to market it.

If you don't need the "Lycoming additive," use the money you save by buying Phillips XC and to buy the Camguard additive.

Like Kurt, I also say change the oil at 4 months if you don't have the hours on the oil.

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