As part of my efforts to seal up my 1957 182, I purchased a complete set of the Knots2U door and window seals. The set covers both cockpit doors, both windows, and the baggage door. I also purchased a tube of the sealant (glue), and some extra silicone grease.
One note: A well vented space, safety glasses, and a supply of Nitrile gloves are highly recommended for what comes next here. The solvent and glue fumes were no joke, and this was in a fully opened T-hangar. A floor creeper is also very useful.
The first step is to remove the old seals. Mine were quite old, so this wasn't too hard as they were coming apart in places anyway. Some gentle persuasion with a beveled putty knife took care of the stubborn areas, you just need to be careful not to dig into the metal as the steel blade will gouge the aluminum easily.
The next step was adhesive removal. I used their recommended 3M solvent, and while it worked, it did take some effort where the previous installer had caked it on. There were other spots where it just came right off though. I used both cloth shop rags, and non-scratching ScotchBrite pads soaked in the solvent to do the job. A few weeks after I did this, K2U published a new recommendation for some industrial strength solvent that apparently works much better, but was only now available in small-ish quantities. I suggest trying whatever the new stuff is.
Removing old glue from the window frames is much easier if you pull the spring arm off and let it hang freely. One of mine would not come off, so that window took 3x as long due to the tight space to work in.
Installing them was straightforward. Get some of those small foam paintbrushes from your local hardware store for glue application, though if you move quickly you won't need more than 1-2 of them for the plane. The glue sets within ~20 seconds, so you need to work quickly regardless. This isn’t as scary as it sounds - just plan ahead, read the instructions a couple times first, and think about where you will stick the seal before you do it. I put a small bead of glue on the door, (again quickly) spread it into a film, and then applied the seal. You have maybe a few seconds to move the seal before it's down for good, so do not screw that part up.
The K2U seals are very pliable and will go where you put them, so don’t worry about the door curves. Like they say, do <10” at a time give or take, as you won’t be able to lay down glue and stick the seals in the right place without mistakes otherwise. It’s OK to stick a section and take a break before the next one.
The silicone grease doesn’t exactly soak in, and I initially put too much on thinking I needed a good layer of it. This causes the seal to “stick” to the mating surface when you open the door again, so be sparing with it. I noticed around a couple of the curves, I had a small bit of seal sticking out of the gap with the door closed. I haven’t yet trimmed it, but expect to. The older Cessna doors were formed by hand to each unique fuselage, so a little “handcrafted” discrepancy will happen from time to time.
In flight, I immediately noticed that the air blowing in around the door and window was gone. Not reduced, gone. The only air coming in was where I wanted it to be - from the vents. This will be a noticeable improvement in winter flying.
Perhaps more strikingly, I took decibel noise measurements before and after using a handheld sound meter. With the old seals, I recorded near 100dB levels at the pilot’s position. After the seals with no other changes, the noise level dropped 11dB! That is a huge difference. That’s also with the old can vents open (they don’t seal in my plane anyway). I think replacing those vents could reduce it further, but this was a big unexpected change.
Between this and getting my prop balanced to 0.04IPS, the comfort level definitely increased. I would certainly recommend the K2U seal kits, they are not terribly expensive and work as good or better than advertised. It’s also a pilot-installable product with just a log entry required.
