Put some weight in the other seat = to yours and call back. Check the tail, put a yaw string on the window out front to see want the air flow is doing. How does it stall?? Watch out for lifting a heavy wing too much, it can bite you, in the stall. You will get it, check your rig, and have someone QC you.

I have rigged 737's to PA 23-150's....all the same. Do the math.

Zona

dirtstrip wrote:...........I had a 701 and they use flaperons too but I hesitated to complicate the discussion with bringing that up since the 701 is a straight wing with no washout. Instead the flaperons are split to inboard and outboard sections. The inboard section is adjusted lower than the outboard to stall the inboard section first. That arrangement replaces the function of washout in the wing. .....

I'd noticed the split flaprons on 701's (and Savannah's also I think), but didn't know what was going on with them since they are linked together. It all makes sense now....
That's a novel approach to the problem of washout-- when you make the wing simpler (no washout), you have to complicate something else. But at least it's something that is easily adjusted. Reminds me of the Grumman AA-1 wing- no washout (I believe) so Bede added stall strips to make the inboard end of the wing stall first. Yet another approach would be to leave the stall strips off, but add VG's only on the outboard end (in front of the ailerons).

Eric

That probably would work and cause less drag than the lowered portion of the inboard flaperon and it is also why we need the experimental aircraft category. Someone with an idea gets to explore it. The biggest advances in aviation got their start that way from the Wright Brothers to Burt Rutan and Spaceship One. Where would we get an STC for those.

tempdoug wrote:Could you take a digital level and see if one wing has different washout than the other?

I know the digital levels are all the rage, but I still use a Starrett adjustable protractor (I think thats the term used, it has an adjustable wheel that has the degrees on it, with a locking ring, all mounted in a machined steel straightedge.) I tried a SmartLevel, (borrowed it) and went back to the Starrett. One thing, I don't center the ball between the hash marks, I select one side or the other and "crowd" that mark. That gives me a more precise mark to match up, hard to explain but simple to do. No batteries required! Just the other day I used it on my Kubota: while parked on a sideslope, I "zeroed" it out on the PTO framework, and then adjusted my snowthrower to match, thus the 'thrower was square with the tractor, a handy tool for lots of things.