I apologize in advance if this discussion is somewhere else in the Forums but I have very poor luck searching for discussions via the “Search” window.

It looks like I will need a spinner repair (Is that possible?) or replacement on my ‘58 182. While replacing my motor mount bushings at the firewall I accidentally hoisted the motor into the hoist arm. Crap.

Attached is the pic of the damage. Is repair possible or is replacement inevitable? I think the backing plate should be find. It was a pretty gentle “squash”.

should be repairable.

That's a real bummer, Phil.
I wonder if that dent could just be knocked back out?
Or maybe you could just leave it as is-- just write "ouch" on it with a sharpie.....

So what did you replace your firewall bushings with-- standard rubber bushings, or the aluminum ones?

You could wax it up on the undamaged side and mold up some thick fiberglass to make a die of sorts to tap it out against from the inside, then bodywork the imperfections with bondo. You would probably need to rebalance it after doing that. Or, conclude that you might get 20-30 hours deep in to that process, and just buy another one and call it a day.

What prop are you running?
Hartzell & Mac spinners are different.
I know a guy with a C180/182 spinner that he might wanna sell.
Not sure if it's for a H or a Mac, but either way be advised that even used spinners aren't cheap.

Take it to an auto body shop and tip them well later.

Gary

I need to start cleaning out the hangar and have the original spinner and backing plate off of my 58 180.The original equipment list says Hartzell propeller spinner for HC82XF-1-8433 propeller.
I have no idea what it is worth, but i'm sure someone will chime in.Most important to me is helping out the community.

Wow...thanks guys. VT180, it’s a McCauley. That would be awesome if there was one out there somewhere. Cessna has a guy they will send it to for repair. $350. However, they don’t do cracks, only dents. Taking it off today I noticed a screw hole to edge crack about 1/4” long...from the dimple for the screw to the metal edge. There are 4 “forward screws” on each side alongside the hub ( not the backing plate screws) and it’s one of the 4. Not sure what the repair people will say about the crack. I’ll find out later this week. I’d sure like to locate another out there but I have no idea if the screws from a used one could possibly line up. Seems unlikely.

Hotrod180...I used the rubber bushings. About $50 for the set from Cessna here. Just couldn’t see springing for the SPW bushings. These have probably been in here since 1988 when the engine was rebuilt. Man they were crap. I’m sure glad I paid attention to how badly they were cracking around the bulged-out edges. They were hard as a rock and totally falling apart. A couple we had to chisel out. The job would have been pretty easy had the engine hoist point been close to the CG of what I was picking up...engine and prop together.

Unfortunately I just had the prop dynamically balanced about 3 flying hours ago. We got it down to .04 IPS in vibration which I hear is pretty amazing. Cessna said their repair shop said the fix wouldn’t change the weight.

But I think the panel is going to be really nice. My electronics wizard friend is doing a much better than new job. Flush mount G5 in the top, CGR-30P on the right and and a EI Oil Temp/ Press the first small hole on the left. I ran out of room for primary instruments on page one of the CGR. Room on the right side for an iPad. A Mini oriented vertically would fit perfect. New breakers and switches. Got the 6-pack in and managed to miss everything behind. I think offset to the right slightly is fine as it gives the co-pilot a better view. I also put the CGR on the right so my wife can help monitor things. Stratus ESGi, ADS- B IN/OUT, steam guages refurbished by AQI, and new Sigtronics 4-place intercom. Only one old VAL Com 760 for now but we mounted it with space above and all the wiring for a Garmin Comm next year. No VOR. Empty space lower left for who knows what...

There’s a thread on here somewhere about a shop that will weld spinner cracks. Probly be worth calling them to see if they can handle both the crack and the dent before you send it somewhere else that can’t do both.

I have a spinner and bulkhead I’d like to get rid of but don’t want to separate them. I didn’t post about it earlier because I thought your dent would be easily fixable by a local sheetmetal guy. Now that your dealing with a crack too...it’s probably still less expensive to have it repaired but maybe not.

Just to throw it out there I have an early 180/182 spinner also laying upstairs that did not work for a 0-470-J conversion on a Stinson I did..

Brian.

Please PM me Brian.i know right where you are over there...

And whee...if you know who that is please let me know.

Found the thread via google and this was the outfit used.

http://spinner-repairs.com

BirdyinBOI wrote:…. CGR-30P on the right and and a EI Oil Temp/ Press the first small hole on the left. I ran out of room for primary instruments on page one of the CGR....

Is the CGR-30P certified as a primary replacement for all required engine instruments?
I've daydreamed about getting one,
I would set it up with the tach & MP on top, CHT/EGT on the bottom left, and oil temp, oil pressure, and ammeter on the bottom right.
But then I guess if you've got electric-sender type fuel gauges, you'd have to keep the original as backups.
Luckily I have the old wing root-mounted mechanical units.
IMHO it makes more sense to have all the engine instruments in the CGR, and keep the fuel gauge separate....
does EI (or anyone else) make a certified stand-alone combo LH/RH fuel gauge?

An easy job for the right guy, no need for a new spinner. But make up a better story as to how it happened then the real reason! Like my dented spinner ( a nickel will cover it) from a slo mo dead stick ski plane slide into trees. NO damage, all three blades safe, just a small dent, I keep it there as a reminder of side slope ski landing techniques.

hotrod180 wrote:

BirdyinBOI wrote:…. CGR-30P on the right and and a EI Oil Temp/ Press the first small hole on the left. I ran out of room for primary instruments on page one of the CGR....

Is the CGR-30P certified as a primary replacement for all required engine instruments?
I've daydreamed about getting one,
I would set it up with the tach & MP on top, CHT/EGT on the bottom left, and oil temp, oil pressure, and ammeter on the bottom right.
But then I guess if you've got electric-sender type fuel gauges, you'd have to keep the original as backups.
Luckily I have the old wing root-mounted mechanical units.
IMHO it makes more sense to have all the engine instruments in the CGR, and keep the fuel gauge separate....
does EI (or anyone else) make a certified stand-alone combo LH/RH fuel gauge?

Eric, if you go with a CGR-30 combo or MVP-50 you can ditch the original guages as well. Or put fuel guages on the one CGR-30 and put oil press/temps on a standalone guage which I'm assuming is what is happening here.
The only stand alone digital fuel guages I know of are the aerospace logic ones. Spendy though.

Hotrod,,,,Skinner has it right. I wanted to get rid of the old fuel/oil press/temp strip and didn’t have enough room on the primary CGR page for everything so the oil temp and press will be a separate EI gauge. The Aerospace Logic gauges are really nice but I decided to keep all the fuel together on the CGR page,

BirdyinBOI wrote:Hotrod,,,,Skinner has it right. I wanted to get rid of the old fuel/oil press/temp strip and didn’t have enough room on the primary CGR page for everything so the oil temp and press will be a separate EI gauge. ….,

So the information from the required gauges being replaced all has to be displayed on the primary page, correct?

That’s correct so you have limited options with only so much room. MP and RPM goes at the top, EGT and CHT on the left side and 3 or 4 others on the right side.