Hola all,

Happy late thanksgiving, when does everyone here put their winter baffles in temp wise?

The 7AC doesn’t have much of a POH, I’ve been going off the continental engine docs, to my reading you don’t need to pre heat til 20f per the SIL

but when should I install baffles? Just when the oil temp isn’t going to stay at 120f?

Thanks

I put mine on my C85 7AC at about 45-50 degrees daytime temps. It doesn’t get above 165-170. Frankly, I wish it did, as it puts a lot of moisture in the oil.

jcadwell wrote:I put mine on my C85 7AC at about 45-50 degrees daytime temps. It doesn’t get above 165-170. Frankly, I wish it did, as it puts a lot of moisture in the oil.

+45 - +50f?



In my case it seems oil temp I want to target 120-180f



For your 85 seems 150-180

Not sure I’d want to be north of 170

Yes. 45F. It’s usually about 10 degrees colder a few thousand feet up where I’m cruising or practicing maneuvers. In the summer I’m running ~200F on a 90 degree day, so I doubt being too hot in the cool weather is doable.

jcadwell wrote:Yes. 45F. It’s usually about 10 degrees colder a few thousand feet up where I’m cruising or practicing maneuvers. In the summer I’m running ~200F on a 90 degree day, so I doubt being too hot in the cool weather is doable.

200 seems kinda hot

My 180 has the factory mechanical oil temp gauge before the cooler. I also have a JPI after the cooler. Yesterday with temps in the low 20's my oil temp was running around 110 after the cooler, but well up in the green on the factory gauge. I've seen 200 on the after the cooler temperature reading on a 100 degree day.
With cold temperatures, less than 25, I will see the before the cooler temp gauge indicate just above minimum during a prolonged descent or cruising around at 17" and 2300 rpm, the heater pretty much quits working too.

Do you have the insulated bag
for the oil tank? It might let you delay or minimize the times you need the covers.

On my C-65 and C-75 the oil tempetature seemed to be more tolerant of the outside temperature with the insulated bag. Of course I am in California. (But after one long night of cold-soak in the Mojave I thought I would run out of fuel before the tank felt warm.)

The L2M war dept manual, while very vague, seemed to think the bag did the job.

Bill

I’d like it to run cooler than 200, but that’s what it is when it’s hot (90+) outside. I don’t have an oil cooler. Being down half a quart of oil can make a significant temperature difference.

I only see 165-170 when it’s 45 out during a prolonged climb. Usually more like 140 in cruise. I don’t have the insulated bag. Might have to get one.

Tell me more of this bag

Its a bag made of a heavy felt material that wraps around and covers the oil reservoir to retain heat.

The first step to proper engine care and feeding is ensuring your data is accurate.
To ensure correct oil temperature is being displayed on the gauge, remove the sensor and submerge in a Pyrex cup of oil with an accurate thermometer. Heat the oil in the cup and as the temperature hits 100F, place a mark on the panel gauge, when the temperature hits 180F, place a mark on the panel gauge, heat to maximum allowable per your engines TCDS, mark the panel gauge. Let it cool. On the way down, double check your marks for accuracy. Repeat as many times as required to ensure accuracy of your marks.
I use very fine line tape on my oil gauges to annotate 100F and 180F as these are the two temperatures most important to my engines. 100F minimum for power above idle and 180F desired minimum operating temperature inflight. Generally, if your calibrated gauge indicates 180F, there are locations within the engine that are hotter. One of the objectives of hot oil is to evaporate the moisture caused by the process of combustion. This temperature changes as the temperature at which water boils is based on pressure.
Unless you are still running castor oil, don't let oil temps in the 200 range frighten you. Modern oils are engineered to operate in this environment, however, operating with oil temperatures outside the manufacturer's guidance is not conducive to longevity of the oil to do its job or the engine.
As for when to when to employ the use of restrictor plates; with good data, your engine will tell you. I have multiple sized "block off" plates for my oil coolers. There are times when I use various sizes in the course of one day. Yes, proper oil temperature is that important to me, because I know it is that important to my engines. Without a cooler, things like insulated kidney tank diapers (blankets) are required to keep the temps in an acceptable range. For those repeatedly operating with engine temperatures below 180F, I would highly recommend more frequent oil changes as the moisture is not being removed from the engine during operation.

TR

StillLearning wrote:My 180 has the factory mechanical oil temp gauge before the cooler. I also have a JPI after the cooler. ....

My 53 180 has the standard oil temp sensor, mounted below the oil cooler.
I'm curious where your "after the cooler" sensor mounts?

Thanks guys!

Any good places to buy one of these handy bags?

NineThreeKilo wrote:Thanks guys!

Any good places to buy one of these handy bags?

Not sure of a source, they might be a more of a "roll ur own" kind of accessory. Maybe have a poke around the WWW for small bore Conti users group, the one a saw recently came with a Aeronca Chief purchase.

I have one hiding somewhere as I previously ran two C-85's in J-3's, I'll try to find it and as a minimum provide a photo. I called it the kidney tank diaper as it surrounded the tank and was secured by snaps up one side. Would not be difficult to make one.

TR

TR wrote:I have one hiding somewhere as I previously ran two C-85's in J-3's, I'll try to find it and as a minimum provide a photo. I called it the kidney tank diaper as it surrounded the tank and was secured by snaps up one side. Would not be difficult to make one.

TR

You rock!

Thanks

I’d be interested if you want to sell it too

As promised, took some digging to find it. The small squares wrap the induction tubes.
TR

TR wrote:As promised, took some digging to find it. The small squares wrap the induction tubes.
TR

I bought a set from WAG AERO a few years back. Wag has been bought now, so if you can find out who's liquidating their stuff......

It also would not be rocket science to roll your own.

MTV

TR wrote:As promised, took some digging to find it. The small squares wrap the induction tubes.
TR

Thanks TR, would you happen to be interested in selling?

I’d be game to get measurements made and provide a free doc for a home brew for others

NineThreeKilo wrote:

TR wrote:As promised, took some digging to find it. The small squares wrap the induction tubes.
TR

Thanks TR, would you happen to be interested in selling?

I’d be game to get measurements made and provide a free doc for a home brew for others

I want nothing for it, I'll give it to you with the hope you do the same for someone else when you no longer need it. Making a pattern as you suggested is a great idea, how about provide the data to Zane for the BCP database.
Shoot me a DM with your address and I'll drop it in the mail.

TR