Is your aircraft registered in the US or Canada?
Die pen requires one to remove the organic finish while eddy current does not. Saves a lot of time to not have to strip; but a A&P can do the die pen while it must be a level III (?)NDI tech with equip and experience to do the EC.
I used rattle can primer and rattle can flat top coat on the strut end after doing the die pen so I could wipe it off for the next inspection with MEK rather then using epoxy primer and topcoat and having to use stripper etc. Same rattle finish for the aileron counter weight arms inspection.
Assemble with liberal CPC (wheel grease) then top coat bolts and fitting seams with Parlekoton (spelling?). PKT makes water under pressure and causes steel bolts to rust in fittings under stress loads so only use it as a anti rust topcoat and fittings sealer.
Twenty five years of doing this inspection out in the bush and pre Viking’s eddy current AD update almost all of the inspections were performed on floats which are stable on the hangar floor.
On wheel Beavers we integrated the strut removal with the wheel bearing inspection and placed the axles on blocks of wood so there was no chance of excess movement or a wheel going flat etc, also made climbing in and out of the fuselage a lot easier, then saving wheel reinstallation for the vary end of the annual. This was a double bonus once we started running the big Bushwheels and we did the same with the 180/185’s
Later after the eddy current became an option we would fly out the tech and we had an extra set of timed out struts to use to swap out. We could pop of a set of struts and reinstall a set in about the time it took tech to do the inspection. We could do five beavers before lunch.
BTW: Viking screwed up when they didn’t make EC an option on the H Stab inspection… and they double crewed up when they called out a level III tech and floro pen… so an A&P can’t sign off the inspection.
Make a nice set of bullets to ease the strut reinstallation.
Our wing jack was a wood 2x6 with 1/2 dense foam backpack padding and 2” pipe sections with the bottle on the bottom a few holes drilled in the bottom section of the pipe to adjust and the jack installed with vary minimum of clearance to start so if for any reason we lost the jack pressure or someone opened the valve to quick etc the wing couldn’t move down too far. And wheels removed because.
I’m sure I’m forgetting a hand full of good things…
I’ve had to get jiggy with a rivet gun more then a few times, seems the top strut bolt more often then the bottom , turn the bolt head with a butterfly or impact while guy on other side bangs away, nut still on the end a few threads to save the threads and stop something ugly from happening.
That top bolt needs a bit of a chamfer on the end and check all the bolts for a burr on the end cause.
Rusty bushing holes: get a long shank 1/4” bolt cut off the threads and head, slice one end about an inch with a 1/16 cutoff wheel to make a slot suitable to firmly hold a piece of scotchbright and use this to clean out the bores.
Rocket
ps. One of my forum pet peeves is not including proper thread title/post info:
Who we are
Where we are
Where we are going
Make and model or whatever airframe or power plant prop joke NSFW or whatever

pps. About the time the DHC-II H stab spar AD came out I was in one of my clients office where he was sitting at his big flight following monitor, I told him, “just google ‘beaver crack and it will show up…”