Hi all,

There's a good chance you're all sick of these kind of questions, but I'm gonna go for it anyway. I've settled on getting a Maule, now it's picking the model and deciding if I want to go with something already on market or wait ready to pounce on the perfect plane when it becomes available.

Currently available in my area is an M5-235C with 31" tires, an Avidyne panel, comes with floats and skis for $170,000. I've also looked at every Maule on Trade-a-Plane, Barnstormers, and here (open to suggestions on any of them). My main questions are as follows:

- Spending that much for an M5, do I just spend the extra to get an M7? (I can afford it, but if the difference is negligible why spend the extra).
- Do I count out all 3 blade props? I have heard from some that going into off-airport with a 3 blade is just asking for more trouble than it's worth.
- Any "gotcha's" on the pre-buy I should be specifically asking about?

I have an instructor, insurance, and local pre-buy lined up. Would need assistance finding mechanics if not buying local. It's probably obvious this will be the my first aircraft purchase. Feel free to tell me everything I'm being dumb about and things I haven't thought of yet. Hoping to be flying my own plane by the end of June.

Just curious, what’s the issue with 3 blades?

Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of terrible airplanes! I’m a proud owner of a shitbox (lovingly) M6. See my rebuild here:

https://backcountrypilot.org/community/ ... ject-24886

There are a billion maule variations so I feel your pain. Unfortunately you actually left out the most desirable of the bunch, the M6. Long wing, light fuselage? Count me in. The Maule factory says the M6 “was the one they got right”. I’d agree. They don’t go for sale much because the people who have them, keep them. But you didn’t ask about those so I’ll try to stay on topic.

If the prices between an M7 and M5 are similar, definitely go M7. The resale value alone would make that a smart move. M5 wingspan is 2ft shorter than M7, and a lot less flap both in span and in deployment angle. The fuselage of the M7 has more headroom for the backseat and an option for a third row tiny seat. That is negligible in my world, but the difference in the wing is a rather big deal. The M6 and M7 also were available with fuel injection (IO540) which I believe to be far superior to carburetors and lots of added value for me personally. M5 was only ever sold in carb versions.

The 3 bladed props available for the 540’s (-235) are great. Notably the 80” McCauley 3 blade is fast and has lots of ground clearance. Only downside is weight on the nose as the 235’s are a little nose heavy. There is a hierarchy of props in terms of performance that generally goes: 86” McCauley 2blade, MT 2blade, 80” McCauley 3blade, 81” hartzell 2blade, 78” hartzell 2blade. As you can see, the 3blade is one of the better ones.

There are lots of gotchas as in any airplane. I’ll type up another reply in a bit about some of those.

I’m not sure I’d spend $170k on ANY M5. I’m fairly tuned into the maule market currently and I think going rates for planes on wheels only are as below. Floats for Maules are actually very cheap. Set in AK right now for $4k. Hard to find, but cheap.

M4: $60k-$100k
M5: $80k-$120k
M6/M7: $130k-175k

-Asa

Just curious, what’s the issue with 3 blades?

I have heard people say that it's just an extra blade to put chips into.

Thank you, Asa, this is great information! I only left out the M6 because in the few months I've been tracking Maule's, I've never seen a listing for one. I'm greatly looking forward to reading through your rebuild.

Some things to check on prebuy:

- If M6/M7, measure the wingspan, aileron length, and flap length. Verify you have the wing you think you have. Trust me on this one, maule owners take pride in doing things in the shady area of legality.

- Check the stubs for the horizontal stabilizer struts for corrosion and SB compliance. There are short stubs welded into lower longerons that the stabilizer struts slip over and bolt to. They are upwards-pointing open tubes meaning they collect and hold water in a place with zero airflow. From the factory they came with a sealant to keep water out but it was one that hardened and cracked and trapped water, meaning lots of rust. There is a service bulletin to clean all that out, treat and rust, and fill with a non hardening silicone type sealant. Common for these to be nearly rusted through, not ideal for a major flight control surface.

- Pull seats and floorboards and look for rust in airframe. Lower longerons especially where there is fiberglass insulation above that holds water. Check the “gingerbreads” (curved C-channels) that hold the shape of the fabric at the front of the belly fabric. These can be totally rusted through because they collect water.

- Check for NAS bolts at all landing gear and oleo pivot locations. NAS bolts have a dished out head to differentiate them from AN. They are significantly stronger than AN and are 100% necessary. Bolt kit is $250 I think if it doesn’t have them.

- if the plane doesn’t come with floats, but that’s something you want in the future, verify the fuselage has the float reinforcements (not fittings) welded in. There’s a couple doubled-up/sleeved tubes near pilot/copilot knee area, and a large sheet of steel under the cargo doors.

I’m sure I’ll think of more.

BirderBrian wrote:Thank you, Asa, this is great information! I only left out the M6 because in the few months I've been tracking Maule's, I've never seen a listing for one. I'm greatly looking forward to reading through your rebuild.

That makes sense. The MX7 is a close cousin of the M6 and you find more of them. The M6’s only ever came with IO540’s, where the MX7 came with a range of engines from 160hp-235hp. Also the M6 wing has massive flaps and tiny ailerons (great for short takeoff/landing) and the MX7 used the “universal” wing which had more balanced aileron/flap lengths. M7-235B and C also had universal wing.

BirderBrian wrote:

Just curious, what’s the issue with 3 blades?

I have heard people say that it's just an extra blade to put chips into.

Smaller prop arc less chips?

Mostly flying off water Ive been pretty happy with my 3 blade on the 185

The only downside of a three blade prop I can think of is that it won't fit in another airplane if you ding it and it needs to be hauled in for repairs. You can slide a two blade in a lot of airplanes... three blades not so easily. Wouldn't stop me from having one. If you ding it bad enough that it has to go to the shop it probably needs to be taken apart anyway.

Asa is right on the money!! Go find an M6.
John

I had an M7 for ten years - Great airplane! The only reason I sold it when I did was because I need a more capable x-country plane for work.

Hello Brian. As my handle implies I am a Maule owner. I am in my 17th year with a
M-7 235 HP carbureted with a MOGAS STC. I have put 2200 hours on it.

Know your mission. Rough off airport. Faster for cross country. Nice backcountry grass. Pavement only. IFR/VFR

IMO. Best bang for the buck. I love the Cessna 180/185, but for the price.

I have a 3 blade prop. I like it. Much smoother than a 2 blade.

Remember the more options you get the less useful load. A O-360 2 blade fix pitch prop, VFR panel, no auto pilot, no long range tanks, 8.50 tires, will haul more than a O-540, 3 blade constant speed, auto pilot, IFR panel, long range tanks, 35" bushwheels.

Insurance was something I didn't factor till it was too late. $6500 17 years ago. You said insurance has been addressed, good.

Watch out for engines that have sat un-flown for extended periods. Unless they were pickled. Don't ask how I know. You want complete log books. If not the plane is worth less!!

Older Maules that have been restored will be worth more than newer ones which are starting to show wear and tear. Fabric is rated for 20 years. Has the plane been hangared?

Don't be in a hurry to buy. Now is flying weather and you will pay a bit more. Don't settle for what you really don't want. I know it is hard, be patient. Get access to AOPA Vref or similar cost guide.

Lastly! Trust but VERIFY!!! there are a lot of shysters out there. Look for hidden damage. Trust your gut! If it doesn't feel right, walk away.

Happy hunting. Cheers...Rob

One

I would reiterate the insurance point... Low time with zero Tailwheel my insurance quote for a 100k Maule was 9k per year vs 1300 for a 170B. I'm sure I could have shopped around a bit more but that pretty much ended my hunt. When I crack 1000hrs of tailwheel perhaps I will revisit my Maule dreams.

SmokeyTheBear wrote: When I crack 1000hrs of tailwheel perhaps I will revisit my Maule dreams.

For any Maule owners who went through this, what did you find the actual break point in experience was for a reasonable premium?

My M6 is $3400/year for $135k. I have 3500 hrs, all the ratings, 800 tailwheel. When I purchased I had no hours in M6, 50 in M7, insurance required a checkout in an M6 which I completed in 3 landings with a CFI.

I use Bill White Ins.

I sold mine in 2015 - My last premium was $1400'ish - I think I had 1m + 120k hull. At that time I would have had around 2,200 hours in a tailwheel and 800 in that plane. Great memories!

I bought my Maule (an MX7-180C) in 2013. At the time, I had just over 1,000 hours total PIC, a commercial ticket with an instrument rating but only 175 hours of tailwheel time. Most of that tailwheel time was in a Pitts S2a though. I don't know if that mattered to the insurers, but after 10 hours of dual, I only paid $1,400/year for the first 4-5 years then it started creeping up. I now pay about $2,200/year for $100K in hull, a million worth of liability coverage and $5K medical./passenger. My broker says the increase has been caused by the economics of insurance, not because of any problems on my behalf. The insurers have been writing lots of checks due to massive storm damage the past few years with whole airports being wiped out by tornados and hurricanes coming through.

I don't know what your mission is, but the MX7 with the 180 Hp O360 has been ideal for me. I have 1,015 pounds of useful load, but I have to be careful with where that weight is placed. I can't put 2 adults in the back seat because of an aft CG problem. Losing the weight of 2 cylinders and some case metal off the front of the airplane will do that to you (the Maule was designed for a 6 cylinder engine). On the plus side, losing those 2 cylinders has reduced my fuel burn, made my maintenance costs a bit lower and still has provided an airplane that has taken me everywhere I want to go. I cruise at 21" of manifold pressure and 2350 RPM (the 180 Hp engine has a prohibited RPM range between 2000 and 2200 RPM because of a bad prop harmonic). At my normal cruise setting, properly leaned, I'm only burning 7.5 gallons/hour. I feel that my aft CG issue makes wheel landings easier than for the 6 cylinder planes. By the way, I got a couple hours of dual with Ray Maule before I bought my plane and he said you should never wheel land a Maule. He never provided any rationale for his statement. My prop is smaller diameter than for the 540 engines, so it has more ground clearance than the 235 Hp birds. That combined with my aft CG issue makes me comfortable doing wheel landings in the plane and I like those for a variety of reasons.

I don't land of gravel bars because of the potential for rocks being thrown up and damaging fabric on the elevator or belly of the plane. but I routinely fly into small grass strips only 1,000' long and the plane makes that easy peasy. Another thing to consider when choosing the model of Maule you buy is the flap settings. The M6, MX7 and M7 all have a negative 7 degree flap setting that adds about 4 knots of cruise speed to the plane. I don't think the M5 wings had that option.

Ray told me that with the aluminum gear, they had problems with splaying - More so with the bigger engine and more weight over the gear. So, as a consequence, he encouraged people not to wheel land them. Mine had aluminum gear and he was super knowledgeable, so I took his advice and 3-pointed it.

Jim

Zzz wrote:

SmokeyTheBear wrote: When I crack 1000hrs of tailwheel perhaps I will revisit my Maule dreams.

For any Maule owners who went through this, what did you find the actual break point in experience was for a reasonable premium?

17 Years ago had 0 tailwheel and 100 TT. Had I known I would have to pay $6500 on a $130000 plane I may have walked away. I was prepared to pay more based on my low experience at the time. I would have been fine with $3500 17 years ago.

Insurance dropped real fast after the 1st year. I least I paid was $1200 around to 2010. 2023 I paid $2055 for $120000 coverage. I have never had a claim. Knocking on wood.

Cheers...Rob