Hey seward what color is your airplane? I got my spam can next to aero metric.

I wanted to add my new GDL39 3d to top off my IPAD gps setup. Neither avionics switches are hooked up to anything so i figured that would work well. I also need to get my DG rebuild as it is pretty much worthless. This being the first plane i have ever had that has one maybe it needs to go in the trash. Do i even need that paper weight? Well electrical tape and auto wire always lead to more work.

Amazing the things you can find under panels. Why waste a butt splice they just add weight!

Zip ties are for pussies! Real pilots just tie that extra wire in a knot around the closest whatever.

Orange with black. right next to road, inside fence by Oren's 185. Might have weird antennae on the struts (I sometimes track my radio collared animals for ADFG). It has the 29 inch tires from Seaplanes north....I like them alot..

I like the electrical work on your plane. Cant say I found anything like that in mine, thank goodness.

PAMR MX wrote:Why waste a butt splice they just add weight!

Careful... thats the shit that started me down the road. I saw stuff like that in my Wagon and lost it. Started pulling a wire here, wire there. Next thing I knew I had a project on my hands.

pull that ashtray out and you will find a sturdy place to mount other heavy stuff....

Had my gps mount attached there and loved it...

Wow....

That wiring photo is terrifying!

The guy who did that is probably still out there, somewhere, lurking in the back of a shop, working on an aeroplane that belongs to someone you know...

Muhaha.

182 STOL driver wrote:...... First I'd change out the cowl flaps for Horisman fixed cowl flap.......

I'd like more info on this. I know the C180 had cowl flaps from the git-go, the first 182 didn't but Cessna added them pretty shortly thereafter. Are they really required? Seems like life would be a lot simpler without them, both flying and maintenance (cowl reinstall).

I rarely use the cowl flaps. If I do it's only because they are there. This thing is super cold blooded and I could just wire them shut as they were when I got them. I have seen a 185 up here with some simple cowl flaps made out of thin alum screwd in place. I rarely ever fly in temps over 70 so don't know about higher temps.

DrifterDriver wrote:you cant change the fabric! that pattern is hot!

I agree with Drifter, just clean those seats. Plaid is coming back!

Keep the posts coming and congrats.

PAMR MX wrote:


Pretty scary back there. Lots of old rubber hose and nasty insulation.

Did you pull out all that old insulation and replace it with something else?

I have a 1957 182A as well, I was thinking of doing something similar with my panel. I don't want to replace the whole thing, but do pretty much what you did. I want to get rid of the car cluster gas, rpm, oil gauges and replace is with a EI MVP-50P.

I run 29 mains and 8.5 front on the Landis

I ran across this thread as part of a search. I'm looking for a consensus amongst the 182 drivers as to how much to cut off the nose tube to install the Landis if I am putting 8.50's all around right now, but plan to install 29 ABW's on the mains shortly?

Is the goal to have a level attitude on the ramp, then adjust how much you service the oleo later to compensate for the larger mains?

Pierre

140 flyer- the strut tube can only be cut to one length as per the stc and I don't see any reason to leave it any longer or shorter. Some had been incorrectly installed with the tube not cut and the scissor link still attached to the old collar. I also install an intake tube as a bumper on the strut just in case the strut goes flat you still have a bit of prop clearance. I also run as much nitrogen as I can and still steer ok. Too much and your centering bumper limits your steering. The more prop clearance the better!
There is a 182 parking next to me with 29 mains and if his strut is flat you could about walk under the elevators without bumping your head.

Core file- re insulating my fwd cabin is on the to do list for the winter. No insulation currently. I would have gone with a single instrument like the MVP 50 if my plane had not come with all these single EI instruments.

This is going to be a pretty long build but if y'all are interested I will keep updating. I got a pponk engine for the 182. A 200hr since major engine that looked to be in great condition. It came out of a wrecked cessna with a prop strike. I hope to sell my 470 R to help douse the money fire.
I started disassembly almost the day I got the thing.


Down to the case only takes a hours. This one was sealed with aviation form a gasket and silk thread.



Some steel parts ready to magnaflux.


I was hoping for minimal issues. This cam gear was installed with most likely too loose of a fit. This gear had a single key way. There are improved versions with double key way or splined shaft.

This is going to be a pretty long build but if y'all are interested I will keep updating.

Please do. Which cam gear was loose? The one that runs the prop governor or the other that goes with the crank gear.

The prop gov drive gear was loose....

Sad news. The crank was cracked. Always a gamble with a prop strike motor. You can see the crack right next to the glare. Sorry Taken on my 2pixle pos cell phone.

PAMR MX wrote:This is going to be a pretty long build but if y'all are interested I will keep updating. I got a pponk engine for the 182. A 200hr since major engine that looked to be in great condition. It came out of a wrecked cessna with a prop strike. I hope to sell my 470 R to help douse the money fire.
I started disassembly almost the day I got the thing.


Down to the case only takes a hours. This one was sealed with aviation form a gasket and silk thread.



Some steel parts ready to magnaflux.


I was hoping for minimal issues. This cam gear was installed with most likely too loose of a fit. This gear had a single key way. There are improved versions with double key way or splined shaft.

I can't send a PM with my iPhone. But curious how much you're thinking to get for your 470R?

Can I ask for details? Engine hours, cylinder conditions, any other details?? Basically I'm after 2 good cylinders, cam and lifters. You can PM me or email.... [email protected]

Thank you! Pat

It's a great engine!

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/for/4735021454.html

PAMR MX wrote:I rarely use the cowl flaps. If I do it's only because they are there. This thing is super cold blooded and I could just wire them shut as they were when I got them. I have seen a 185 up here with some simple cowl flaps made out of thin alum screwd in place. I rarely ever fly in temps over 70 so don't know about higher temps.

You might wanna think about testing your probe & gauge, just in case. My new-to-me 180 seemed to be real cold-blooded too, so cold blooded in fact that it made me suspicious. My flying buddy has a 180 and he was seeing much higher CHT's than me at the same power settings. I stuck the gasket-type CHT probe in boiling water and the gauge only read about 120 degrees-- so it was reading about 90 degrees low, at that level anyway. I have a new gauge & probe on order, should be installing them this week.

PAMR MX wrote:It's a great engine!

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/for/4735021454.html

Great! Thanks.

Nicksons does the best work on crank cases and has a good reputation for not machining your case to death only removing as much metal as required.


The case got a few cracks welded, line bored and surfaces milled. A fresh dunk in alodine tank makes them look great!


New used crank with fresh yellow tag. This guy was repaired by aircraft specialties.


One of the more critical parts to not screw up on these engines. There are manny different counter weight pin part numbers, all a different size. Getting them in the proper location is critical. There are a combination of them used on one crank. There are different counterweights that need to be installed in the correct location as well.